HOW TO: Weber Frame Cross Member repair


 

Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Bruce you are the Weber Guru! I will have to do this (not sure how with my limited skills) but I will actually use my new to me(used) Weber Genesis for the first time this weekend. I have some grilling to do since Covid19 is keeping View attachment 10061 me from eating out. I wire brushed this area and sprayed it with rustoleum bbq paint. I apologize for the bad picture but this is how I see it without my glasses anyway! Ha Ha! I am wondering if there is stainless steel 1" x 1" tubing for this area? Would that be better?
Yes, you can use stainless tubing and it is sold locally and on line, but really, a regular piece should last another 20 years.
 

Richard in NS

TVWBB All-Star
Someone on here suggested putting a Stainless steel flat washer between the cross member and the aluminum firebox. What do you think LMichaels, would this help?
 

RobM in So Cal

New member
I was wondering about the tubing dimensions. I measured mine at the cross member and it was 1 3/16" square and approximately 15.5". Not sure about the thickness so I don't think it is the heavy .120 probably the .083 or .065. Does anyone know?
 

TimothyB

New member
I decided to replace my Silver cross bar similar to Ryan, but I positioned the L-bracket vertically and used the existing frame bolt on the legs (see pictures). I decided to use self tapping screws for the other holes. I don't have a grinding wheel tool but did use my multi-tool to remove the old cross bar and cut the new steel tubing.

I got my steel tubing at Home depot. I think it is 1.25 inch and it fit perfect.
 

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AndrewW

New member
Thanks for the video Bruce. I am in the process of rehabbing my Genesis Gold B which required the crossbeam to be replaced. After drilling and installing the bolts in front/back of the welded frame, the side table attachment struck the newly installed bolts when connecting to the frame. I had to create a notch in the fitting for the side table attachment to accommodate for the newly installed bolts. Is this inherent to this repair? If it is, it might be good to note this for anyone using this method for crossbeam replacement.
 

Richard in NS

TVWBB All-Star
I decided to replace my Silver cross bar similar to Ryan, but I positioned the L-bracket vertically and used the existing frame bolt on the legs (see pictures). I decided to use self tapping screws for the other holes. I don't have a grinding wheel tool but did use my multi-tool to remove the old cross bar and cut the new steel tubing.

I got my steel tubing at Home depot. I think it is 1.25 inch and it fit perfect.

Another crossbar option. Excellent. What blade did you use on the multi tool to cut the bars?
Thanks, Richard.
 

Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Thanks for the video Bruce. I am in the process of rehabbing my Genesis Gold B which required the crossbeam to be replaced. After drilling and installing the bolts in front/back of the welded frame, the side table attachment struck the newly installed bolts when connecting to the frame. I had to create a notch in the fitting for the side table attachment to accommodate for the newly installed bolts. Is this inherent to this repair? If it is, it might be good to note this for anyone using this method for crossbeam replacement.
Andrew, I am not sure how the side table could be impacted by the bolts in front and back of the new cross member. Can you post pictures?

The yellow circles is where the bolts heads should be:
20190621 Gold C (1).jpg 20190621 Gold C (7).jpg
 
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AndrewW

New member
Andrew, I am not sure how the side table could be impacted by the bolts in front and back of the new cross member. Can you post pictures?

The yellow circles is where the bolts heads should be:
View attachment 10912 View attachment 10913
View attachment 10933 View attachment 10933
Andrew, I am not sure how the side table could be impacted by the bolts in front and back of the new cross member. Can you post pictures?

The yellow circles is where the bolts heads should be:
View attachment 10912 View attachment 10913

The insert for the side table frame extended into the path of the installed bolt. The picture shows the overlap of the insert above the spot where I the drilled the hole which is slightly off center. The second photo shows the notch I made. Perhaps I might have drilled improperly. IMG_20200803_171516374.jpg IMG_20200803_171537836.jpg
 

Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
OK, I see you issue. I don't remember what model grill I did that on, but I didn't encounter that issue.
OK, going back and looking at the video, it was a Silver B frame that I did it on and had no issue with the bracket interfering.
 

Ed Pinnell

TVWBB Guru
OK, I see you issue. I don't remember what model grill I did that on, but I didn't encounter that issue.
OK, going back and looking at the video, it was a Silver B frame that I did it on and had no issue with the bracket interfering.
Just be aware that there is a potential interference with the expander. Lay out your holes carefully. Thanks, Bruce and AndrewW!
 

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Alan-Yosemite

New member
Thanks for this Mike, can you post images of this process? Might be too late though.

I know this is an old thread but I used Mike's suggestion to fix the bottom frame connector. Here are a couple pictures of the threaded rods - I replace the tube connecting nuts for both the front and back frame connectors. The right front tube connecting nut was rusted out causing the grill to lean. I added nuts to the threaded rod connectors to tighten them in place (and also used red loctite threadlocker). I didn't have 2 more large stainless steel washers so I only used them on one side.
 

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THyde

TVWBB Wizard
I also realize this is an old thread, but here it is coming back to life again!

Bruce: Thank you for this information.

I have a 1000 I'm rehabbing for family friends, and I need to reinstall the lower 1" bar (the one that holds the bottom durawood shelf in the front) and also the cross member is shot. It's almost funny, it is almost completely rusted through in the middle, hanging on by a metal thread. In any event, I went and got a piece of 1 1/4" square stock and McMaster inserts for 1" and 1 1/4" square stock. The 1" inserts fit right in to the lower frame piece that goes from the uprights supporting the big wheel to the little wheel, just have to cut off the old bolts and zip that up. The 1 1/4" inserts I'm using for the cross member by the fire box.

The inserts I have are square on the outside, and like a circular gripping washer type thing that goes inside the tube. Bruce, I noticed in your excellent video that you had some kind of slide in type inserts, is there any consensus on which is better? My thinking is I can tighten them all the way down, and the worst thing that could happen is that the square stock could come off the circle gripper, but otherwise these inserts seem like a pretty good solution.

Anybody used the circle gripper style before? Anything I'm missing before I finally start rehabbing this 1000?

EDIT: The circle style ones are recommended. I should read first. I guess I got all star struck watching that video, and that is not a joke! Anybody who edits those awesome speed-ups is a videographer in my book.
 
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BPratt

TVWBB Super Fan
I also realize this is an old thread, but here it is coming back to life again!

Bruce: Thank you for this information.

I have a 1000 I'm rehabbing for family friends, and I need to reinstall the lower 1" bar (the one that holds the bottom durawood shelf in the front) and also the cross member is shot. It's almost funny, it is almost completely rusted through in the middle, hanging on by a metal thread. In any event, I went and got a piece of 1 1/4" square stock and McMaster inserts for 1" and 1 1/4" square stock. The 1" inserts fit right in to the lower frame piece that goes from the uprights supporting the big wheel to the little wheel, just have to cut off the old bolts and zip that up. The 1 1/4" inserts I'm using for the cross member by the fire box.

The inserts I have are square on the outside, and like a circular gripping washer type thing that goes inside the tube. Bruce, I noticed in your excellent video that you had some kind of slide in type inserts, is there any consensus on which is better? My thinking is I can tighten them all the way down, and the worst thing that could happen is that the square stock could come off the circle gripper, but otherwise these inserts seem like a pretty good solution.

Anybody used the circle gripper style before? Anything I'm missing before I finally start rehabbing this 1000?

EDIT: The circle style ones are recommended. I should read first. I guess I got all star struck watching that video, and that is not a joke! Anybody who edits those awesome speed-ups is a videographer in my book.
Hi T, the 1.25 inserts with the square are for legs or feet that would support something on a vertical axis. The 1.00 inserts without the square would work on a horizontal axis.

You can use the inserts with 1 inch square tube on the old 1000 series and early silver ABC’s for cross member repair.

New silver ABC’s with SWE frames won’t take the repair with inserts.

Thank you Bruce for posting this repair method.
 

Steve Hoch

TVWBB Pro
I also realize this is an old thread, but here it is coming back to life again!

Bruce: Thank you for this information.

I have a 1000 I'm rehabbing for family friends, and I need to reinstall the lower 1" bar (the one that holds the bottom durawood shelf in the front) and also the cross member is shot. It's almost funny, it is almost completely rusted through in the middle, hanging on by a metal thread. In any event, I went and got a piece of 1 1/4" square stock and McMaster inserts for 1" and 1 1/4" square stock. The 1" inserts fit right in to the lower frame piece that goes from the uprights supporting the big wheel to the little wheel, just have to cut off the old bolts and zip that up. The 1 1/4" inserts I'm using for the cross member by the fire box.

The inserts I have are square on the outside, and like a circular gripping washer type thing that goes inside the tube. Bruce, I noticed in your excellent video that you had some kind of slide in type inserts, is there any consensus on which is better? My thinking is I can tighten them all the way down, and the worst thing that could happen is that the square stock could come off the circle gripper, but otherwise these inserts seem like a pretty good solution.

Anybody used the circle gripper style before? Anything I'm missing before I finally start rehabbing this 1000?

EDIT: The circle style ones are recommended. I should read first. I guess I got all star struck watching that video, and that is not a joke! Anybody who edits those awesome speed-ups is a videographer in my book.
If you have to replace the rusted out crossmember anyway, I would just use the connectors you already have. The only real problem with those is that they would add length to the factory crossmember. Since you had to make a new one you can account for total length with the connectors slightly protruding.
 

Richard in NS

TVWBB All-Star
T, I have used both and have had no issues with either but I don’t move my grills around often. I feel that moving them around would flex the frame more and cause them to come loose. The round one is probably better. And Steve is right about the square collar adding length. I had the shop cut the steel to length and the first one was too long. I ground the rest down make them the right length. Oops!
 

 

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