HOW TO: Cook Box Frozen Bolt Removal


 
I am happy that this HOW TO helped you out. I don't know the exact size of the cook box bolts as I have only rehabbed a couple of those over the years.
 
TomZ said:
New here. Digging up this old thread because this actually worked like a charm for me! Thanks so much for giving me the courage to try it! After spending a lot of time over multiple days replacing the drip pan support rails which had rusted out and broken (along with those screws), I noticed that there wasn't much left of the restraining bolt inside the cook box so I needed to tackle that as well. Used the dremel to cut off the rusted broken end of the bolt then tapped it out. It didn't show signs of loosening with each tap but then on the 8th or 9th attempt the bolt popped right out. What a relief! Now off to the box store to pick up a replacement cook box restraining bolt. Does anyone know the size of the OG bolt? Grill is an older Spirit E-310 with horizontal burners and control knobs on the side. After I get the cook box reattached she's getting new burners, ignitor and thermometer. Have all of those just waiting to be installed. Thanks!
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If it’s what I’m picturing I would guess it’s a 2” bolt, but could you post a picture of the grill so that others can chime in too?
 
I think that grill has a front and rear bolt holding the cook box in and it might be a specialized bolt. But I think a standard hex bolt would work too. I might have a grill I can check.
 
I just did the broken cook box bolt on my Genesis Silver A.

I managed to get it out quite easily using a MAP torch and a pair of vise grips. I heated it up then put the vise grips on the end of the bolt inside the cook box. With a few twists back and forth it came free.

To replace your bolt, you need a standard 1/4-20 bolt, 2" long, a nut and a washer.

The thing I didn't get at first is "what am I dealing with here? Is it threaded into the hole?" Watching Bruce's video shows that it's not threaded because you can push it through. It's actually only held in there by rust and oxidation. Not as bad as you might think. I would not put in all of the time it takes to drill one out.


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Dave-MI said:
I just did the broken cook box bolt on my Genesis Silver A.

I managed to get it out quite easily using a MAP torch and a pair of vise grips. I heated it up then put the vise grips on the end of the bolt inside the cook box. With a few twists back and forth it came free.

To replace your bolt, you need a standard 1/4-20 bolt, 2" long, a nut and a washer.

The thing I didn't get at first is "what am I dealing with here? Is it threaded into the hole?" Watching Bruce's video shows that it's not threaded because you can push it through. It's actually only held in there by rust and oxidation. Not as bad as you might think. I would not put in all of the time it takes to drill one out.


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I always get them to come right out with a torch and a little persuasion myself. The thought of drilling them out just makes my brain hurt.
 
I used a torch and Bruce's technique for a long time to no avail on a Silver B box. To make matters worse, there was a pre-existing chip in the aluminum by the bolt so I was worried about busting a big hole out of the cookbox. I ended up drilling it out. I used a small cobalt bit to get through a small hole and then a larger bit to clean it out. Getting the first bit through was really difficult and took a lot of time. The whole ordeal was really a pain. It all worked out ok but I would recommend doing any other method first.
 
Val Deale said:
I used a torch and Bruce's technique for a long time to no avail on a Silver B box. To make matters worse, there was a pre-existing chip in the aluminum by the bolt so I was worried about busting a big hole out of the cookbox. I ended up drilling it out. I used a small cobalt bit to get through a small hole and then a larger bit to clean it out. Getting the first bit through was really difficult and took a lot of time. The whole ordeal was really a pain. It all worked out ok but I would recommend doing any other method first.
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I can’t remember if I found this recommendation here or on YouTube, but I recently had to drill out another Cookbox bolt and I used this bit:


It was an absolute game changer. It went through the bolt slow and steady with downward pressure like butter. Usually I end up drilling a hole next to the frozen bolt, but now using this bit, it let me reuse the original hole with relative ease.

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John-NY said:
I can’t remember if I found this recommendation here or on YouTube, but I recently had to drill out another Cookbox bolt and I used this bit:


It was an absolute game changer. It went through the bolt slow and steady with downward pressure like butter. Usually I end up drilling a hole next to the frozen bolt, but now using this bit, it let me reuse the original hole with relative ease.

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That is an interesting bit and use for it. I've always recommended a centering bit followed by regular bit to take it through
 
John-NY said:
I can’t remember if I found this recommendation here or on YouTube, but I recently had to drill out another Cookbox bolt and I used this bit:


It was an absolute game changer. It went through the bolt slow and steady with downward pressure like butter. Usually I end up drilling a hole next to the frozen bolt, but now using this bit, it let me reuse the original hole with relative ease.

View attachment 121636
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Wow John, that bit sounds awesome! Thanks for sharing. I have a feeling that last stuck bolt situation won't be my last. I am going to try the Bosch bit. The regular cobalt bit I had was extremely difficult and time consuming.
 
I see you had to make a JB weld repair. Was the damage already there, or happen while you were trying to get the bolt out. I have a cook box where the metal around that hole has become very thin, either from a bad burner tube or crossover burning into that spot would be my guess.
 
Steve Hoch said:
I see you had to make a JB weld repair. Was the damage already there, or happen while you were trying to get the bolt out. I have a cook box where the metal around that hole has become very thin, either from a bad burner tube or crossover burning into that spot would be my guess.
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There were already holes in that spot from the dreaded crossbar rust failure, as well as holes on the opposite side where the manifold bracket butts up against the cookbox.

I use the JB Weld Extreme Heat product. You just have to make sure to mix it up in the container very very very very very very well. Here’s a picture of it unmixed when you open the bottle.

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