HM version 4 Rpi 3d print case


 
Hi,

Success with a standard case from Mouser (same one another member used).

IMG_20130217_163005.jpeg


IMG_20130217_165734.jpeg


IMG_20130217_164943.jpeg


IMG_20130217_165209.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Yeah that looks really awesome in that standard case, great work! Does the case hold everything in place pretty tightly or do you have something to hold it as well?

I also just noticed you can actually have two fewer wires running to the panel as the POW jack's ground is the same as the combined probe jack ground so they can use the same wire. The blower 12V and the POW 12V input are also the same. Note that the blower "ground" is not ground at all, it is switched so that can't be combined with anything.
 
Hi,

The case has standoffs for the display I used the two upper ones to secure the display to the case everything else is held in place.

Thanks for the tip on the Blower and POW +12v - I didn't look at this detail on the schematic. I used a piece of rubber cut from a cycle tube as a cover over the 5 way switch.

For the jacks - if you draw a line 15mm from the bottom of the rear pannel you can use this line to mount all the connectors and they will fit between the boards.

I also removed the RF video connector from the Rpi.
 
This is sort of off topic for the 3d printed thread, but this has become sort of a case thread in general. Has anyone considered printing a "face plate" on a piece of transparency or laminating a piece of paper that's been printed, then gluing that to the front of the case? The main reason would be to cover the non-active portion of the LCD with a small clear window, but then you could print whatever you want on it and have it look more finished. I can't really find much information on the internet about how well this comes out or what does and doesn't work.
 
Or a 128x64 graphic lcd.... ;) Seriously tho, are you talking about just a mask? we used to take thin lexan and mask off an area we wanted to by see-through, spray the rest with black paint, then glue thus paint side down to whatever we wanted to have a window.

This is the same way RC car bodies are painted.
 
Last edited:
Simple to do. If we wanted writing or a logo, we would do a design as a reverse image and then have a vinyl cutter cut out in whatever color we wanted. Kinko's does this for larger designs, for smaller use something like a quickutz. We would then put the vinyl on the back of the polycarbonate or acrylic. Once we made sure all bubbles were out, we would then mask off the area we wanted as our window and just spray paint the back with the background color. If a slight recess were built into the case, you can get a nice flush finish.
 
Bryan Mayland said:
Yeah except with finer detail than a solid color. Something like commercial products where they have a sticker that covers the whole front.
Example 2
Example 3

Not with membrane buttons but just something to jazz up the front, cover the LCD, and give it a nice smooth finish.
Click to expand...


I think the limiting factor right now is the LCD height relative to the button height. To put a vinyl layer across the top surface would require that the surface was at least flush with the face of the LCD. Doing that with the current hardware layout would make it very hard to navigate the button unless we taper the plastic surrounding the button into a funnel shape that dips below the top surface.
 
A cover over the lcd will definitely add height but there are a lot of options on the button like a taller button or simply not cover the whole front.
 
I was thinking of something simpler than that though. Like just designing the reverse image, go down to kinkos and have it printed on a transparency, cut out the outline, glue it to the front. Either that or print it out on an inkjet at home on paper, cut the LCD window out, laminate it, cut the outline and glue it on.
 
I didn't imply covering the whole front. I meant that by increasing the plastic thickness to make the top of the case flush with the LCD, would have the consequence of making it very difficult to navigate the button because it would sit below the surface of the plastic. You would either need to raise the button some way or taper the plastic around the button to a depth below the surface to make it usable.
 
Ah true but for people like me who mounted their button 3mm high, as suggested in the wiki, it wouldn't be an issue. I'll have to see how far the LCD extends from the case when I get my 3D printed version. Yipee!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top