HM version 4 Rpi 3d print case


 
I think we can make that work. If you are looking to have the LCD flush with the surface then we need to raise the surface level. I would probably want to create a shelf along the bezel of the LCD that could accept a piece of clear plastic this creating a uniform surface to cover with the membrane. The key will be to use a "squished" first layer so that the top surface is smooth and not ridged. I'll work on a new top for one of my builds this weekend. What sort of things would you want printed on the display?
 
I am interested in a case, but plan on using this 4 line display Varitronix MDLS-20464B 20x4 Character LCD Module i purchased on eBay. Do you have a case using his display.
 
Tom Kole said:
I think we can make that work. If you are looking to have the LCD flush with the surface then we need to raise the surface level. I would probably want to create a shelf along the bezel of the LCD that could accept a piece of clear plastic this creating a uniform surface to cover with the membrane. The key will be to use a "squished" first layer so that the top surface is smooth and not ridged. I'll work on a new top for one of my builds this weekend. What sort of things would you want printed on the display?
Click to expand...
Yeah you're right, when the LCD sticks out a bit, it does push the membrane out to the point it eventually pulls away from the face. I don't think you can make the top any bigger though without the button becoming unusable. I don't know, it's something to think about for the future. I'm not sure what I'd want printed on the membrane either. The LEDs won't be fixed function for very much longer so you can't print what they do, the button is "up", "down", "menu" and "back / lid open" which are all fairly obvious so that's really not a necessity. The only real reason I can think of for a membrane is to cover the LCD hole and make it look less like a hole with an LCD sticking through it and more like a window.

Those papilio sheets are pretty nice too. I didn't know there was such a product. I may get some of those to play around with as well.
 
If you had a thicker/taller top, you could recess, by the same amount, around the button. The top of the button would be flush or maybe slightly recessed with respect to the top, and still be able to be manipulated with your finger. An additional benefit is that if you flip, trip, drop, your HM it won't make unwanted changes to your settings. Not that it has ever happened to me :)

dave

Bryan Mayland said:
Yeah you're right, when the LCD sticks out a bit, it does push the membrane out to the point it eventually pulls away from the face. I don't think you can make the top any bigger though without the button becoming unusable. I don't know, it's something to think about for the future. I'm not sure what I'd want printed on the membrane either. The LEDs won't be fixed function for very much longer so you can't print what they do, the button is "up", "down", "menu" and "back / lid open" which are all fairly obvious so that's really not a necessity. The only real reason I can think of for a membrane is to cover the LCD hole and make it look less like a hole with an LCD sticking through it and more like a window.

Those papilio sheets are pretty nice too. I didn't know there was such a product. I may get some of those to play around with as well.
Click to expand...
 
Or, if you're up for a challenge, we could look at membrane switches that integrate into the panel like this. Expensive to have done commercially but maybe as a DIY..... We're in this partially to learn, right?

Had my eye on this for a while, thought i may try to flush it into the top of the case and cover the switch hole.
 
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Tom got my case and very I'm very pleased with it. I got a chance to put it all together. Here's a quick pic. Thanks great work.
13+-+1
 
Hi all,

Haven't been around in a month or two. Been busy. Still have not built my RPI yet. What case is the best to order now? Going to start it in a day or two. I didn't even get the chance to play with the 3d printer at work yet:-(
 
3D printer at work? What kind of printer is it?

Just go grab the files from github and print one up!

There are several iterations of the case now (I'm sure Tom has some too).
 
M Miller said:
3D printer at work? What kind of printer is it?

Just go grab the files from github and print one up!

There are several iterations of the case now (I'm sure Tom has some too).
Click to expand...

Tom is helping me, thanks Miller (hehe I have a friend named Matt Miller on Long Island.)

The one at work is in a closet and has not been used in a long time. I have to get it out. It was originally bought a drafting /Cad classroom. The model is Dimension BST 768. I have permission to use it, just don't have the time. Since the classroom isn't used in the Summer, I am going to go and play around with it. They have tons of cartridges and if I get it working they will be so grateful as they have no clue how to use it since the Teacher of the class was excessed a few years ago.
 
Dave,

The standoffs inside the case that support the LCD have holes for the fastening hardware. Each case is made to the spec for each display. That case is for a Varitronix MDLS-20464B 20x4 display. I've made a case that will fit most of the newhaven 98x60mm 4x20 displays as well. But just about any 4x20 display can fit so long as it isn't wider than the case. For example, a newhaven NHD-0420E2Z-FL-GBW would not fit (but would be awesome).

Matt
 
Actually it worked out perfectly and simple! i was going to tap some holes in the standoffs and put in screws but i didn't have to. The ribbon cable i used was an old ATA that i cut off the long run on(leaving only 2 connectors about 4 or 5 inches apart). The ribbon cable folded over under the display to give a firm support to hold the display in position. I can try and take some pics but it kind of difficult to see the cable as it's hidden by the display. One thing I did was on the HM board, i used 90 degree header pins so that the ribbon cable plugs in under the display without interference.
 
Love this case. With a RaspberryPi model A in it there's a lot of empty space so I drilled this hole in one side and ran a bungee cord through it so I can hang it on my Big Green Egg's little folding table part. Now I won't keep knocking it off the teeny table.

 
D Peart said:
That is freaking awesome! Can you post a picture of how you attached the display?

dave
Click to expand...

Dave, not sure if this picture shows it well enough but I used a 90 header on the heatermeter and folded a ribbon cable under the display. It holds the display into the opening perfectly.

20130413_165457.jpg
 
Ok so it looks like a 90 degree header on the HM board, a straight header on the LCD and a cable to connect the two. That is sweet. I really don't need another HM, but that is pretty cool. Guess I need to find a home for my current one so I can get one of the 'stretched' versions.

dave

RJ Riememsnider said:
Dave, not sure if this picture shows it well enough but I used a 90 header on the heatermeter and folded a ribbon cable under the display. It holds the display into the opening perfectly.

20130413_165457.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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