HM version 4 Rpi 3d print case


 
I just wanted to say thanks for the info. The two 4-line displays I ordered from that Ebay link were delivered incredibly fast and only cost about $8.50 each with delivery. I plugged one in and it came up right away without any issue, display similar to the 2-line setup, a quick change in the config and it is now showing me the 4-line setup.
I want to do one smoke with the new display to see how it looks in sunlight and darkness before I decide which display to go with, then I should be ready to order a couple 3D printed cases....
Thanks again for you help....
 
That is the same display I used, the case I got from Matt fit perfect, The only change I had to make was to change the pins to a 90 degree set of pins. The display works good in the sunlight I have not had any problems since I finally got it set up and running.
 
I'm using the 4-line display for the first time tonight...
The first thing I noticed is I can't read it from as far as the two line display, I'm pretty sure the text size must be smaller (I haven't swapped back to compare yet). In that regard I kinda prefer the 2-line display. That said, right now I have the unit sitting on the ground inside a disposable tupperware tub, so the display is kinda far away, and will be kept closer to me once I have the HM in a proper case.

Are you saying the same case will fit the 2-line display AND the 4-line display? I would think the top of the case would have to be different to fit the larger display?
 
I'm about ready to order a case for my HeaterMeter(s), I've been looking over this thread and I must say that I honestly don't like the look of the case with the 4 screws on the corners, I much prefer the square case. I understand the problem with the smaller square case is it is held together with tabs, and tabs made on a 3D printer aren't very durable?

I realize there is not a lot of room to put stand-offs and screws in the case, cause the electronics are really jammed in there, and you can't really make the case bigger without causing a problem plugging in the probes, power, blower etc. Since I don't have one of these cases and pictures are scattered all over this thread its hard for me to get a firm grip on what is possible, but here is my idea anyways!

I was thinking perhaps you could mate the top to the bottom using a tongue and groove type junction on the bottom, and two screws on the top (above the display). You would mate the top piece into the grove on the bottom piece, then hinge it closed and put the two screws in from the back (or top) to secure the unit together. I am not sure if there is room on top of the rPi board for a standoff and a screw, I know there is room on the side with the SD card, but not sure about the other? If there is no room on the other side you could either blow the case out a little larger on top to fit the screw (I think an HDMI cable will reach even if the jack is recessed a bit, and who uses the HDMI anyways?), or you could put the screws in from the top (instead of the back) and build a block of plastic on the bottom that extends into the top (on the top edge), hopefully there would be room for this block of plastic under the rPi board? Then a screw could go through the top into the bottom on the top edge of the unit (screws on the back would be preferred)

If all this is a no go, then perhaps just put the tongue and groove on the bottom, then in the center at the top put one single extra circle of plastic (like the 4 on the corners of the case currently) and put one screw there from the back to secure it, though I would prefer a completely square design like the original case...

I know its hard to put into words, hope I did a decent job...
 
Last edited:
Another thing I know a lot of people are after is a water-proof case design. I know that is pretty tough to accomplish due to all the inputs and outputs that need to be connected to the unit.

So here is my idea for a water-proof design. Instead of making the case water-proof, make second piece that would be a mount for the case that is water-proof. You could leave the mount outside by the smoker, and push the HM in and out of if when in use.

I understand the 3D printers don't print clear, so you could source a piece of clear plastic (Plexiglas?) to use as the face and use the 3D printer to make a piece that would mate with it and seal together with silicone. Together they would make a rectangle box with a clear face and an open bottom. The cables would all come out of the bottom and that opening would also provide some ventilation. Last I checked rain don't go up, so as long as the bottom of the mount extends a bit below the HM it should be pretty well water-proof.

As for access to the button, still brainstorming that one. You could perhaps silicone a piece of rubber over a hole in the clear face where the button is, that may work. Or you could just drop the HM unit down from the case enough to access the button I guess.

At any rate, just throwing out my ideas. It's frustrating trying to convey my thoughts with text here in the forum, I am wondering what program you guys are using to create these 3D designs, if it is free, and if I could edit your case files with them for my own amusement and maybe I come up with a design or mod of my own? I really want a 3D printer badly but don't have the cash for it at current prices....
 
Last edited:
As far as a case without the 4 corner screws. It may be possible to use the two HeaterMeter mounting holes, put two posts in the top part, and make hollow hole a screw can fit into. I'm not sure if there's enough clearance around the mounting holes to allow a thick enough tube to be rigid and strong. Also if just two screws can form a secure connection. Here's a cross section:
 
Bryan Mayland said:
As far as a case without the 4 corner screws. It may be possible to use the two HeaterMeter mounting holes, put two posts in the top part, and make hollow hole a screw can fit into. I'm not sure if there's enough clearance around the mounting holes to allow a thick enough tube to be rigid and strong. Also if just two screws can form a secure connection. Here's a cross section:
Click to expand...

That's a pretty good idea as well, but it looks like the hole near the LAN port is obstructed by the HM board, so can't put a post there. The hole near the SD card looks clear, but I think that one would be right where the display is, so you can't screw together there either. (dont have a case so I am guessing, but I think that is correct)
 
Last edited:
autodesk 123D

http://www.123dapp.com/123dbeta9

https://github.com/akhlut/Proto/tree/master/HeaterMeter

:)

The biggest issue is that there is nowhere to go if you want to keep all of the ports accessible. But if you're willing to sacrifice access to the HDMI port it would be possible. The other side would need to be bumped out as well, which means the power and fan jacks would be recessed in the case.

I guess it depends on the compromises you're willing to make. Form vs. function.
 
Last edited:
RalphTrimble said:
That's a pretty good idea as well, but it looks like the hole near the LAN port is obstructed by the HM board, so can't put a post there. The hole near the SD card looks clear, but I think that one would be right where the display is, so you can't screw together there either.
Click to expand...
Not the holes in the rPi, I meant the mounting holes in the HeaterMeter board, which are clear all the way through.
 
Ralph, I hear everything you are saying. Believe me, I sat at a desk for 3 days with an HM board, Rpi, and a set of calipers to create a working design for the case. That original design had to be adjusted so that it could easily be printed with DIY printers. I have experimented with several designs trying to achieve that original concept but don't have a contender yet that fits the bill. I thought about the HM holes but one of them passes right through a mosfet if I am not mistaken.
 
M Miller said:
autodesk 123D

http://www.123dapp.com/123dbeta9

https://github.com/akhlut/Proto/tree/master/HeaterMeter

:)

The biggest issue is that there is nowhere to go if you want to keep all of the ports accessible. But if you're willing to sacrifice access to the HDMI port it would be possible. The other side would need to be bumped out as well, which means the power and fan jacks would be recessed in the case.

I guess it depends on the compromises you're willing to make. Form vs. function.
Click to expand...

I don't think you would have to sacrifice hdmi access, just recess an opening around it big enough for an HDMI plug to get in there....
 
Last edited:
Yes, one of the HM holes passes through the mosfet, but for what it's worth, the hole on the mosfet aligns perfect so you should still be able to get a screw though it. What I am wondering is how close to the front of the case does the HM board mount? I figure there's gotta be some space there because of the display? If there is enough room to put a pad of plastic on the other side of the mosfet big enough to put a screw into I think Bryan's idea should work. A screw at the mosfet, a screw on the middle HM hole. and a third screw in the corner above the SD card (diagonal from the mosfet hole), all from the back. I think these three screws would hold it together fine without the latching. What do you think?
If that would work you could just add those features to the original square case and work from that...
 
OK, I'm downloading 123D right now...
Looking at the case files on github there are a LOT of them! I am wondering if you could point me to what file would be the latest release of the square case that can be opened in 123D?
 
Unfortunately that type of joint is practically impossible on an FDM machine at the scales we're using. If the joint was larger we could certainly do it, but at scale if we were to print that on a reprap it would fail due to the inherent weakness of the plastic for such a small joint. :( The other issue is that the overhangs in such a joint are problematic without support, and not too many people are using PVA or HIPS with dual extrusion for support yet. :(

The file you want is: HPi -R1.6.5.123d
There are several variations of the case in that file.

Using the existing holes in the HM4 board is a good idea, but ya kinda need the pressure at the 4 corners to get the case to close up nicely.

I am working on a new version of the case now. :)
2IQFN0H.png
 
That's awesome, I like the look of the square case so much better!
Let me know how the print works out, I'll buy the first 1 or 2 if it goes well...
Thanks for putting the time in, nice work!

Meanwhile, I'm still dickin around trying to figure out 123D and github....
 
I really, really like this look. Hope it works. Waiting on the rest of my parts then will need a case or two.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top