HM 4.2.4 3D Printed Case

Bryan Mayland

TVWBB Hall of Fame
I had it on my list to cut down an allen wrench to clamp into my drill to make this go easier and then the idea for a screwless case came to mind and that was the end of that...
This is what I did. I just got a set of 45 bits and just keep the right sized one in in my cordless screwdriver. Much easier than turning an allen wrench about 10,000 times per case. BVVVT BVVVT BVVT BVVT, done! I couldn't find a regular T2.5 bit with the right size shank so this works with one of those adjustable chucks.
 

WBegg

TVWBB Pro
Use a soldering iron at low temp to ease the nuts in. I do the same thing with the heads of the M3 cap screws I use.
 

BWortman

New member
Got my case printed in ABS today and was just wondering how to go about affixing the button (not part of the case, but...)? Does it get glued to the tactile switch somehow? Sorry if I missed this in another post, or in the github doco.
 

D Peart

TVWBB Pro
Got my case printed in ABS today and was just wondering how to go about affixing the button (not part of the case, but...)? Does it get glued to the tactile switch somehow? Sorry if I missed this in another post, or in the github doco.
It should just press on
 

Bryan Mayland

TVWBB Hall of Fame
I added some recesses inside the back of Tom's case for a pair of 3/8"x1/8" magnets the built these little sticks that screw into the S-hook holes in my big green egg. The HeaterMeter is angled 30 degrees up so you can read it without bending down. The magnets here are 1/2"x1/8" with countersunk holes for #6 screws (however the head of every #6 screw I have around here stuck up slightly so I ended up using #4 screws). There's a small recess as well where I put some piece of neoprene to help combat the HeaterMeter's desire to slide off. It hold really well and snaps right off and on, leaving valuable tabletop space for meats and tools. I think the magnet position could be a little higher up (5-10mm) on the arms but I'll save that for down the road.



This has been on my TODO list for like 8 months now, and anyone who has bought a case from the HeaterMeter store might have noticed that there were mysterious recesses in their case. I'm pleased with how it works although 1/2" magnets inside might make me feel a little more secure about it as there is 0.96mm of plastic between the two magnets.
 

RalphTrimble

TVWBB Diamond Member
Very nice Bryan... I'd use it if I ran my HM outdoors by the grill. Magnet mount is great, I've had my HM stuck to the side of my microwave with a hard drive magnet for a long time now, way better than sitting on your counter or shelf.

You could take it a little further and make the arms have a swivel joint so you could pull the HM forward to view or push it back to go under the shelf to protect it from rain and sun.
 
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Bryan Mayland

TVWBB Hall of Fame
Yeah magnets are the best. This is like the 4th iteration of this and the least complicated of all of the designs. I actually had movable brackets at one point but the force required to hold the HeaterMeter at an angle was way higher than the amount of force required to pull the device off the magnets. It was really fiddly because the two parts move independently so they'd never be quite the same height and you'd have to take the device off, adjust, put it back etc. I tried some sort of quicklock mechanism too but it was too much effort too. This could probably be modded to attach under the table overhang and then just pop it off to look at it.

I am lucky though because the grill is on the patio so it's mostly covered and I don't have to worry about rain, and definitely never any snow!
 

RalphTrimble

TVWBB Diamond Member
Yah, I guess the HM would want to slide off the magnets when you try to rotate the mount... Perhaps if there was something like a peg on the arm that fit into a hole on the HM, that would resist the tendency to slide? Or if the magnets weren't flush mount, rather sticking up a bit from the arm and recessing into the back of the case a bit would make the mount solid enough to rotate without sliding off. The peg idea would be easy to add, just need to drill a little hole in the HM back for the peg to fit into.

Yah, Sunny Tampa, snow is a real joke to you guys... lol That's why I mentioned sun too, the kinder hazzard. Years ago working in Florida I had to fix a pinball machine because all the plastic ramps melted and warped from the sun while stuck in traffic on the back of a pickup truck... Sun can be rough on stuff too...
 

Steve_M

TVWBB Guru
Located in Sydney, Aus and looking for a 3d printer for the case and possibly an RD3. I have purchased the Heatermeter kit via http://heatermeter.myshopify.com/ and am looking forward to setting this up for my WSM 18" in the coming weeks.
It might be cheaper to have a case and damper housing printed locally.

The files for the case are in the first post of this thread.

The files for the RD3 aren't publically available. I personally use this offset rotary damper and it works really well. The files can be found in the first post of that thread as well. There's also the adapt-a-damper and the micro and macro damper.

Cheers.
 

WBegg

TVWBB Pro
Hey mate! Glad to see a fellow Australian on board (actually, I'm American, just working in Australia). If you need a case, let me know and I could print one and send it to you if you cover the shipping cost. I'm in Kalgoorlie, Western Australia.

PM me.
 

Robert P

New member
Hey mate! Glad to see a fellow Australian on board (actually, I'm American, just working in Australia). If you need a case, let me know and I could print one and send it to you if you cover the shipping cost. I'm in Kalgoorlie, Western Australia.

PM me.
Thanks Mate! Also an American but here in Sydney of course. Never once did I truly entertain smoking on my own back in the states until I moved here this past January from Chicago. My unwavering obsession with Texas Brisket from Smoque BBQ in Chicago, IL forced me to step up and start smoking myself and now I am loving it!. Thanks again, I'll pm you now as well.
 

Tony L-Iowa

TVWBB Fan
Building a HM for someone that wants a 4 probe version (rather than 3 and 1 thermocouple). They prefer an orange colored case and/or something that holds up best in direct heat/sunlight. I've had issues with my PLA flexing and deforming a little bit with heat/sun. Curious if ABS would be a better choice? Can anyone tell me if they can print the 4 probe case and their color options and PLA/ABS printing abilities?
 

Frank Giacinto

TVWBB Member
Tom
Could you create a 4 line version for pi b tc
I printed 4.2.4-2L-TC-PiB-TOP-v1.2.stl

I would like to try my hand at 4 line. I run multiple HM's during a large cook, and waiting for the scroll with 3 units running gets interesting at times..

4.2.4-4L-TC-PiB-TOP-v1.2.stl would be the file needed now.
 

Tom Kole

TVWBB Pro
Tom
Could you create a 4 line version for pi b tc
I printed 4.2.4-2L-TC-PiB-TOP-v1.2.stl

I would like to try my hand at 4 line. I run multiple HM's during a large cook, and waiting for the scroll with 3 units running gets interesting at times..

4.2.4-4L-TC-PiB-TOP-v1.2.stl would be the file needed now.
Just got back from vacation and will check on that 4L version tonight. If you need it faster, I'm pretty sure I already have it embedded in the main .dwg file in which case you can just save the stl version of that case if you have inventor fusion.
 

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