High heat paint on frame?


 
DanJC

DanJC

TVWBB Fan
I'm painting my frame, and tested Rustoleum Satin Protective Enamel (left) and Rustoleum High Heat Ultra Semi Gloss (right).

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I much preferred the Satin and would like to cover as much of the frame as I can, but am aware I need to use high heat paint on parts of the frame near the firebox. I'm curious as to specifics -- does that mean just wall of frame that is touching the box, all four walls of the shaft that touches the box, or even frame near it (like top of leg shafts), etc.?

Thanks!
 
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When I paint the frames on my rehabs, I use the high heat on the area around the firebox to include all 4 sides of the frame in those areas with a little overspray into the area of the frame on the right that doesn't get the heat. Then I spray the rest with Rustoleum 2X gloss black and just let the two blend together which they do pretty well. But, the 2X semi gloss is actually a closer match to the High Heat Semi Gloss. I do not tape anything off on the frame
 
I've used Rustoleum 2X Gloss black on the whole frame on my restores and my Genesis 2000 which I did about 3-4 years ago still looks like new and no problems around the firebox. I do use the HH semi gloss for the fire box and end caps.
 
I, like Rich, use regular paint on the entire frame, including around the Cook Box and several of my grills are still going strong 3-4 years down the road.
I have been using VHT Epoxy Paint in Gloss #SP650 and am liking the way the paint "lies down" as well as it's porcelain-like tough finish after curing.

www.vhtpaint.com

VHT EPOXY ALL WEATHER PAINT - VHT Paint

www.vhtpaint.com www.vhtpaint.com

I also have used VHT Roll Bar paint with success in the past as well.

Jeff
 
That is interesting that the regular paints are holding up on the frame around the fire box.
 
Yeah, hard to imagine it doesn't get past 200/250 on parts of that frame, but I think I'm going to give it a shot. Can always repaint!

One tiny issue I've had is when painting frame I paint 3 sides while it's on the ground, wait until it dries, then paint the remaining side. This sometimes leads to excess drip on the previously painting sides. Should I tape off the sides or is there another technique I'm missing?
 
I gone and screwed up.

I used a plastic garbage bag as my base to paint on. Of course, parts of the frame stuck to it.

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Should I just sand and repaint the impacted areas?
 
Rich Dahl said:
I've used Rustoleum 2X Gloss black on the whole frame on my restores and my Genesis 2000 which I did about 3-4 years ago still looks like new and no problems around the firebox. I do use the HH semi gloss for the fire box and end caps.
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Same with me, I've painted a few frames and only have use the normal Rustoleum 2X and the Rustoleum farm and implement paint. No issues yet.
 
I will just toss in my 2 cents.......I hate painting frames with High Heat......for me I have had several failures due to my prep solvents. The regular Rustoleum doesnt seem to care what I prep with while the High Heat seems to hate my 99% iso alch it causes a bubble look which is the classic ( I aint happy with your prep sauce pal ) look. I have tried several diff prep solvents and High Heat has rejected several. Brake cleaner is my only success thus far. But thats just me....Im a hack....I had to sand and repaint.
 

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DanJC said:
Yeah, hard to imagine it doesn't get past 200/250 on parts of that frame, but I think I'm going to give it a shot. Can always repaint!

One tiny issue I've had is when painting frame I paint 3 sides while it's on the ground, wait until it dries, then paint the remaining side. This sometimes leads to excess drip on the previously painting sides. Should I tape off the sides or is there another technique I'm missing?
Click to expand...


You can hang the parts and then spray them to avoid that problem.
 
Thanks for the tip Ed........When I am in the hardware store I just stand in front of all of those solvents and dont really understand what they can all be used for. I just need one that works so I can run with it. Will try Laquer thinner. Yes it was extremely humid here this summer....painting was tricky.
 
I am trying to use products that are easy to use and dont kill me so fast. I would like to be able to just pour on a clean rag and wipe the frame down. Then I can let the frame sit in the sun for a few minutes and get to painting. In addition I am hoping the product plays nice with High Heat Ultra.........
Thanks for the suggestions guys
 
i used lacquer thinner on my endcaps before a planned repaint and it took big chunks of the paint off. So now I need to grind the whole thing down. Just my 2 cents.
 
Man that would be great if LT took all the paint off easily vs wire wheel...but I am sure it just removed the paint that was about to give up anyway.
 
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