HeaterMeter v4.0 for RaspberyPi / Standalone


 
Andrew Brodsky said:
I am having trouble finding what the differences are between the 2.0 board and the one currently available. Can anyone shed some light on this and should I wait and get the 2.0 board?
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The differences are minor. As far as things that affect us, there's no fuses on the USB ports, which may increase compatibility with some WiFi adapaters. There's also a couple of mounting holes, which doesn't really matter because the heatermeter has mounting holes in it. One of the headers isn't populated either, which means there's no chance of it getting in the way of the LCD connector. It is close now but shouldn't ever touch. If you have all the other parts I wouldn't wait.
 
Tom Kole said:
For giggles, I decided to upload the stl file to ponoko and shapeways to get an idea of how much this is going to cost. As of now, the bottom is almost 35 bucks on shapeways. Does anyone know of a cheaper 3d printing service?
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Wow that looks awesome! I did some quick napkin math before I decided to go 2D and found it was going to be expensive as heck to make. A 4"x3"x1" box with 0.1" walls is about 2 cubic inches of volume, or 33cm^3. That's $56 of 3D printed Ponoko durable plastic. You'd need a box even bigger than that. The only option is to make the walls thinner but you'd have to get pretty thin to make it affordable.
 
I finished version 1 of my 3d print case design. Here is what it looks like:

33zg0fo.jpg


Bryan, I haven't figured out how to insert an image into the autodesk software but once I do I plan on adding your logo to the front. I'm going to have one of these printed up and see how well I measured this thing up. I will post the files once I know it fits or if will give out now if any of you are gamblers and want to roll the dice before confirmation.
 
Looks great. I do 3D modeling every day if you need any assistance with the model you have come up with. In my experience with rapid prototypes/3D prints, the clips tend to fail if use want to be able to take the case apart and put it back together. It may be better to use small self tapping screws to hold the front and back of the case together, but it also depends on the thickness of your material.
 
Andrew Brodsky said:
Looks great. I do 3D modeling every day if you need any assistance with the model you have come up with. In my experience with rapid prototypes/3D prints, the clips tend to fail if use want to be able to take the case apart and put it back together. It may be better to use small self tapping screws to hold the front and back of the case together, but it also depends on the thickness of your material.
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Thanks for the offer. I should have the prototype case some time next week so I'll see how much I need to change it. Do you have any recs on best (i.e. cheapest) places to have 3d printing done?
 
I changed the top and bottom faces to 1 mm thick, keeping the walls at 2mm and the ost on shapeways for plastic is now $31 for the top and $25 for the bottom.
 
Nice! I use Autodesk Inventor daily in my work, as well as a lot at home on stuff. Got to love the way technology has made life so much easier for those of us that design stuff, I remember using a drafting board and pencils, and truthfully that wasn't as long ago as it seems now that I think about it.

What type of file does that program create? If you get something that works well would you mind sharing the source file? I have not started my build yet, I have had the RPi for a month or better, need to order the board and the parts and get started on it!

Tom Kole said:
I've been working on the case. I found blender to be a royal pain so I decided to try that autodesk 123d program that is advertised on ponoko. I am very happy with this program and have the bottom of the case near finished. Here is a shot of it:

2vjsl1u.jpg


For giggles, I decided to upload the stl file to ponoko and shapeways to get an idea of how much this is going to cost. As of now, the bottom is almost 35 bucks on shapeways. Does anyone know of a cheaper 3d printing service?
Click to expand...
 
I am definitely going to post the source files, I was going to wait until verifying that everything fits but I can do it sooner if people are interested. I just didn't want people to spend money on something that is not going to work. Autodesk has it's own file system but can also save as stl files which is what I used to order my prototypes. I went with shapeways because they were way cheaper than panoko when I priced everything.
 
Tom Kole said:
I changed the top and bottom faces to 1 mm thick, keeping the walls at 2mm and the ost on shapeways for plastic is now $31 for the top and $25 for the bottom.
Click to expand...

While it sounds expensive, if you think what an Ipad case costs and other cases the price is nearly the same. If the first prototype doesn't work then I'm all for chipping in some cash to help us get this perfect.
 
Dennis C said:
While it sounds expensive, if you think what an Ipad case costs and other cases the price is nearly the same. If the first prototype doesn't work then I'm all for chipping in some cash to help us get this perfect.
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I'm hoping it will only need very minor mods that I could take care of with a file on my end and then adjust the stl file for everyone else. Any of you guys that use autodesk know how to import an image that I can emboss on the top cover?
 
Unfortunately there is no easy method that I am aware of to emboss an image. If the "artwork" was done as a vector graphic I have had some luck in the past exporting it out of Photoshop or illustrator as an .eps bringing it into AutoCAD, doing some work on it there, saving it as a dwg, and then importing that dwg into a sketch in Inventor. Sometimes it works, sometimes not, just depends on the original image.

There is a "decal" function in Inventor that is pretty simple, but it is just that a decal, there is no depth to it, and you cannot use it to create an emboss feature.

Most times with just a basic silhouette type image it is faster and easier to just draw it as a sketch in the model. You can use the image itself and trace over it in the sketch, makes it go pretty fast. I drew up the boxy guy and embossed it in about 5 minutes - the grill part would take a little longer since it would require splines and what not.
 
Paul S (Missouri) said:
Unfortunately there is no easy method that I am aware of to emboss an image. If the "artwork" was done as a vector graphic I have had some luck in the past exporting it out of Photoshop or illustrator as an .eps bringing it into AutoCAD, doing some work on it there, saving it as a dwg, and then importing that dwg into a sketch in Inventor. Sometimes it works, sometimes not, just depends on the original image.

There is a "decal" function in Inventor that is pretty simple, but it is just that a decal, there is no depth to it, and you cannot use it to create an emboss feature.

Most times with just a basic silhouette type image it is faster and easier to just draw it as a sketch in the model. You can use the image itself and trace over it in the sketch, makes it go pretty fast. I drew up the boxy guy and embossed it in about 5 minutes - the grill part would take a little longer since it would require splines and what not.
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That's sort of what I figured so I ended up doing the decal thing last night and then used that to trace a sketch.
 
Alan Erickson said:
I'm interested in doing this project and already have my Raspberry Pi and usb wifi adapter. I have a couple questions on the parts though.

1) OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36H-C is out of stock and isn't going to be available until November. The vertical version of the same part is available, OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36-C. Can this be used and left vertical? If it needs to go horizontal can the pins be safely bent?

2) If I change the RCA connector to a DC power supply connector, which part would be recommended?

3) How do I go about purchasing a board?

Thanks
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I recieved a couple of OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36-C and the legs do bend, but when the legs are bent, so that the board lay down, the legs are a tad short and dont go all the way through the PCB. Also the legs of the board are not solder very well, both of mine look like they have cold solder, and would be very easy to break when you bend them, use caution.

if you want the legs to go all the way through the PCB then the OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36-C would sit in about a 15 to 30 degree angle
 
John Bostwick said:
I recieved a couple of OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36-C and the legs do bend, but when the legs are bent, so that the board lay down, the legs are a tad short and dont go all the way through the PCB. Also the legs of the board are not solder very well, both of mine look like they have cold solder, and would be very easy to break when you bend them, use caution.

if you want the legs to go all the way through the PCB then the OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36-C would sit in about a 15 to 30 degree angle
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I ended up ordering the backordered horizontal part, but they must have had a couple of smuggled away because they shipped my order complete. My Mouser order is complete and now I just need to bite the bullet and order the DigiKey stuff.
 
Has anyone put together a pre-saved order for the components from both digikey and mouser that could be linked for easy ordering of all components?
 
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