HeaterMeter + LinkSys WiFi Router = LinkMeter


 
Originally posted by AnupM:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Steve Swinnea:
Yep that's the button you suggested.
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Would you mind sharing the .brd and/or the Eagle part for the 4-way switch? I'm still learning Eagle and trying to make my way thru how I create the multiple schematic elements for one physical part.

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'll post the .brd as soon as I get version 1.1 back. I think the original may be a little big. I now have a 1x1.5" design.

I ended up building the button package myself. I pretty quickly found out from forums asking for parts libraries that they think it's good to learn how to make a part yourself. I think I found an Instructable on how to make a part.

I'll have to get on another machine to find the button library but will be happy to share that too.

I hope to make a good design for the main board eventually.
 
Originally posted by Steve Swinnea:
Here's my current .lbr that has the switch package, .brd, and .sch files.
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Thanks much. I see that I was making my task overly complicated by trying to create the part with 4 individual switch schematics and one board element. The latter was pretty straightforward, I was struggling with the former.

Let us know if the new layout fits in the case!
 
I'd spent about 15 minutes trying to figure out how to make a part myself then just gave up and found something close enough. I'll have to look for that instructable you mentioned.

You might consider making your traces on your board bigger though, 6mil is pretty small. That is under Tools -> DRC -> Sizes -> Minimum Width. Here is your board with 30mil traces, shrunk down to 0.9x0.95, and I moved the the silkscreen to the back, and valued the resistors with their direction.
g6HZg.png
 
Loooong time lurker, first time poster. I will start a thread with my build once I get further along. All I have done so far is manipulate the Eagle schematics into what I hope to build and spend hours dreaming about how awesome it will be. I do not have a Weber smoker, I have this
http://www.flickr.com/photos/65993521@N02/6008891747/

The reason I chose to post now instead of later on is Eagle. I am in no way an expert but found this video series http://www.youtube.com/user/rp...s#p/u/21/qG0O9LKH-_E very helpful.

I am planning on a few custom boards-
1-BBQShield with screw terminals and a ribbon cable to other boards
http://www.flickr.com/photos/65993521@N02/6008881637/
2-SwitchBrd
http://www.flickr.com/photos/65993521@N02/6009430240/
3-ProbeBrd
http://www.flickr.com/photos/65993521@N02/6009430182/
4-LCD (no custom board for this)

I'll post all my schematics if anyone is interested in looking at them.

Ryan

Edit: to make pics appear to no avail
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
I'd spent about 15 minutes trying to figure out how to make a part myself then just gave up and found something close enough. I'll have to look for that instructable you mentioned.
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Eagle Part Tutorial

You might consider making your traces on your board bigger though, 6mil is pretty small. That is under Tools -> DRC -> Sizes -> Minimum Width. Here is your board with 30mil traces, shrunk down to 0.9x0.95, and I moved the the silkscreen to the back, and valued the resistors with their direction.
g6HZg.png
Click to expand...

I like it a lot. I thought about making the traces larger but just didn't. Can you toss me the .brd (steve.swinnea@gmail.com)?
 
Ryan, welcome and, yes, I'm interested! I have an almost identical grill. I am hoping to wrap up the electronics in the next week and then find a some free time to fab a new vent plate that will hold the blower.

Another good tutorial for custom parts is at Sparkfun (http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/110). Tutorials 108 (Schematic) and 109 (PCB layout) are also good for Eagle introductions without the crazy pagination and advertising in the Instructables tutorial.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
And one more post to change topics. Good news, everyone! I definitely have found the memory leak in LuCId. We have been up and running a whole day with narry an increase in memory usage. That means I'll be able to get back to wrapping up the next big update, with a better design that is more correct, faster, and uses less memory (and a tiny bit less storage). I've been tracking this down for so long I've forgotten what the point was to begin with!
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How's the new code coming along, Bryan.
 
I've been rolling this thread and have read every post several times. I'm really interested in trying the build. There are a fe things that are not 100% clear though:
- the latest design no longer requires the adruino correct? The schematic on the first page is the entire build?
- is the a schematic file for eagle for the image shown?
- is the parts list on the first page up to date? It doesn't appear to be, but I could be wrong.
- is it possible to program the chip without a special programmer device?
- exactly which parts can be left out if I don't want to include the wireless probe part?


Thanks. Its just a bit difficult to see what's still relivant given its a constant work in progress.
 
- the latest design no longer requires the adruino correct? The schematic on the first page is the entire build?

Correct the build uses a home built board with the same chip as the Adruino, the ATmega 328. The schematic is the main board along with the button board. You also need a WRT54g router or one of the other routers that have been used so far.

- is the a schematic file for eagle for the image shown?

Ed, as far as I know, has not released the file for eagle. I have one but, I did not include the wireless part in it.

- is the parts list on the first page up to date? It doesn't appear to be, but I could be wrong.

The parts are mainly the same as for the adruino build, except for some things like the Wishield. Everything on the schemantic is needed except for the wireless, that is optional. There are some variations like different Routers, blowers and and LCD's. The LCD, like what I had used and the Blower, take different components to run properly.

- is it possible to program the chip without a special programmer device?


A programer is fairly cheap USBtinyISP

As, needing one, im not sure, you could get an ATmega with a bootloader already on the chip and the after you made the board you could use router to program it as the code for the router supports this function now. Byran or ED would have more info

- exactly which parts can be left out if I don't want to include the wireless probe part?

The RFM12b and the resistors connected to it and the MCP1702-33(3.3v regulator)

Bryan or ED could probably give ya better answer when they log in.
 
Does anyone know how to post a link for a Dropbox.com folder that is shared? Or are they only invite only? Github looked a little too time consuming for now and I thought Dropbox would be the way to go to share my Eagle files.

I guess after looking at my design it is not a Linkmeter but a varation of the HeaterMeter due to everything not being all inside the router's case. I'll start my own thread for mine once I get more done.

Sorry to impede on this thread.
 
Originally posted by Mike Gravt:
1 the latest design no longer requires the adruino correct? The schematic on the first page is the entire build?
2 is the a schematic file for eagle for the image shown?
3 is the parts list on the first page up to date? It doesn't appear to be, but I could be wrong.
4 is it possible to program the chip without a special programmer device?
5 exactly which parts can be left out if I don't want to include the wireless probe part?
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John mostly covered it but I'll answer too.
1. The schematic in the HeaterMeter thread is for a standalone HeaterMeter. It requires an Arduino board, the LinkMeter version does not. There have been some changes for the HeaterMeter that is inside a LinkMeter.
A) LCD backlight control on pin 6
B) The hacky soft-reset on pin 13
C) Optional: a 3.3V regulator and RFM12B wireless transceiver
The PNG in github provides the most up-to-date schematic.

2. Ed has the EAGLE .sch and .brd files, but I'm not sure if he's ready to release them.

3. The parts list is up to date for the standalone HeaterMeter, however, as I mentioned in #1, the boards are different if you want one that goes inside a LinkMeter. There's no reason you couldn't use a standalone HeaterMeter inside a LinkMeter, but without LCD backlight and soft reset.

4. You can initially program the LinkMeter's HeaterMeter with another Arduino/AVR or the USBTinyISP. If you build it as per the github spec, after the initial flash you can update it from the web interface in LinkMeter.

5. John was right, you can leave off the 3.3V regulator and the two caps to the left, the RFM12B and its 6 resistors.

Sorry the hardware aspect is a bit confusing but I'm working as hard as I can to get things documented properly.
 
Originally posted by John Bostwick:
How's the new code coming along, Bryan.
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I don't know! I'm still working on it and I assume getting closer but I am still experiencing problems when accessing the home page with Chrome if its cache is empty. I think I've got the configuration and installation covered though.
 
Right, so my plan is to try and build the linkmeter version. First step is to try and get all the right parts. The router is turning out to be harder to find than I thought. Everything in my area are version 8s. I'll have to order up the parts for both the linkmeter and the usbtinyisp i guess. it's been 8 plus years since i've dabbled with electronics. I'm sure there will be more questions once I get everything i need.
 
Originally posted by Mike Gravt:
Right, so my plan is to try and build the linkmeter version. First step is to try and get all the right parts. The router is turning out to be harder to find than I thought. Everything in my area are version 8s. I'll have to order up the parts for both the linkmeter and the usbtinyisp i guess. it's been 8 plus years since i've dabbled with electronics. I'm sure there will be more questions once I get everything i need.
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Ebay is the place to get routers, I was able to get about 5 or 6 of them. If you have a problem getting let me know and I could possibily let one go for what you would get off ebay. You could always go the route I did and make the circuit board a little bigger(easier to work with) and then get a custom box to put everything in. I still don't know how Bryan and Ed were able to stuff everything into the router, lol.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
I don't know! I'm still working on it and I assume getting closer but I am still experiencing problems when accessing the home page with Chrome if its cache is empty. I think I've got the configuration and installation covered though.
Click to expand...
Ah I figured this out this morning too. Turns out it is that new whizbang feature in chrome "Enable Instant for faster searching and browsing". What this does is every time you press a key in the URL bar, for example as you type "/luci/lm/" it sends a request to the web server. Before I hit ENTER from typing the URL, I had 3 connections open to the server, pressing enter fired off another handful of connections and BAM server crash.

Oh what browsers won't do to become the "World's Fastest Web Browser"
 
Originally posted by John Bostwick:
I still don't know how Bryan and Ed were able to stuff everything into the router, lol.
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Ed was able to do it because he is a master of the circuit board. I was able to do it because the WRT54GL has a 4"x4" space in it which just about the right amount of room if you spend a whole morning moving parts around in EAGLE.

On the other hand, John, you have plenty of space to add stuff if we figure out what the Next Big Thing is!

I still have my ASUS RT-N12 I'd like to build inside of. Now that's going to be a tight squeeze. Of course I need to get OpenWrt working on in first.
 
Originally posted by Ryan Evans:
Does anyone know how to post a link for a Dropbox.com folder that is shared? Or are they only invite only? Github looked a little too time consuming for now and I thought Dropbox would be the way to go to share my Eagle files.
Click to expand...

If you put the file(s) in your Dropbox public folder, you should see a contextual menu for "Copy Public Link". Not sure how it looks under Windows but on the Mac I simply right-click and there is a Dropbox sub-menu. Their web-help link: http://www.dropbox.com/help/16
 
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