HeaterMeter + LinkSys WiFi Router = LinkMeter


 
Oh nice. That sort of looks like my CD 4-way switch idea. image

I used 5% tolerance resistors if that's what you mean. Target voltage is pretty wide, 0.78V so what's that, like 15%? If you have problems you can always adjust the range in hmmenus.cpp.

EDIT: This dorkbot pcb thing is pretty cool. It only takes 9 days for 3 boards, $5 per in^2, no setup and shipping? That's awesome for small stuff!
 
I just found your range definitions in hmmenus.cpp and can change those if need be. I'm just scrounging resistors near your target values.

I got my gerbers to Dorkbot on the last day before an order, 7/11 and received them 7/25. Correct. No setup, they pay postage. The $5/in^2 is for one board and you get three copies. Ridiculous for small stuff.
 
Hey you got your Oscilloscope! Those images are so much more informative than my bitmaps out of the Owon.

So there you go! That is pretty neat stuff right there. The thing I don't understand is why that is happening. I mean there's some minor trace capacitance there but it shouldn't be able to hold the line high like that. I mean look at where it drops off at the end there, that is taking like 80-90uS to switch off. I wonder if something else on the "port D" that drives that digital line is somehow interfering with it.

EDIT: For contrast I'll post my clock/enable lines, which isn't quite the same but you can see my clocks drop lickedy split.
f5Sch.png
 
Originally posted by Ed Pinnell:
Yes, but I can't figure out why your scope shows two voltage levels on the Data/Enable line, one for data and another for enable??? Where do you have your probe connected?
It is attached to the anode side of the diode if I remember correctly, so connected to the Enable line itself. I could be remembering incorrectly though, because this was back in May.

I don't know if swapping the data / clock pins would make much difference. You need something to sink current to bring the voltage back down and I don't think any of the circuitry has much draw at all. From your resistor values, it sounds like you need about 1mA and the inputs just don't draw that much. I could be surprised though!
 
Great discussion! I found this from the Slashdot link a few weeks ago. I am going to build one for my BGE. I have a router and now I am putting the parts list together making sure to incorporate the changes I have seen so far.

My question is does someone have the photos that are hosted on MediaFire that you could repost or email me? I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Jason
 
The Mediafire photos should comeback soon on the forum.

But, if you click on them you can still download everyone of the missing photos from Mediafire.
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Originally posted by John Bostwick:
The Mediafire photos should comeback soon on the forum.

But, if you click on them you can still download everyone of the missing photos from Mediafire.
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Thanks! I will download them.
 
Originally posted by Steve Swinnea:
Yep that's the button you suggested.

Would you mind sharing the .brd and/or the Eagle part for the 4-way switch? I'm still learning Eagle and trying to make my way thru how I create the multiple schematic elements for one physical part.

My adjustment to the current design has been to drop XBee modules on the serial interface between HeaterMeter and the LinkSys Router. That gives me some flexibility to use a Linksys or just directly hook up a computer. That's enabled more choices on the the software side of things.
 
Originally posted by AnupM:
My adjustment to the current design has been to drop XBee modules on the serial interface between HeaterMeter and the LinkSys Router. That gives me some flexibility to use a Linksys or just directly hook up a computer. That's enabled more choices on the the software side of things.
Hehe that's what I did too before Ed poked me enough to actually build the full version. I developed the first version of the software using my always-on Linux HTPC and a pair of Xbee adapaters. Worked pretty well except the range was pretty terrible using the "chip antenna" series 1 adapters. I'm talkin' 20-25ft max with only a sliding glass door in the way. The one inside the HeaterMeter was squeezed between an Arduino board and the LCD board, which the LCD being right in the "keep out" area so it wasn't a very good placement. I highly recommend the integrated wire whip version which adds another 10+ft in this configuration (yeah I bought 2 more!).

The new software will also run on a full Linux box that has LUA installed and the regular x86 rrdtool with LUA bindings.
 
And I think I may have found the memory leak in the LUA state! It is still a little early to tell if this is it but I'm feeling very enthusiastic about the problem I found in the lucid server.

My favorite cockup so far has been modifying the server so every 4 seconds it spawned a child process that was alive for 5 seconds (I meant it to be 500ms), which of course would eat up all the memory pretty fast. So fast that it was difficult to get in and stop it because it kept locking up on boot.
 
I'm convinced everything I come up with, this community will have tried before!
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No matter, it's been a lot of fun buying parts and tweaking things. It's probably also keeping me from cooking far more meat than would be good for me. I'm sure I will end up at your final design soon enough.

I'm surprised at your range findings. I had hoped to get better results with the chip antenna as the pair of whip antennae modules I have worked solidly thru multiple floors. I'll have to more aggressively test my range, thanks for the heads up.
 
Originally posted by AnupM:
I'm surprised at your range findings. I had hoped to get better results with the chip antenna as the pair of whip antennae modules I have worked solidly thru multiple floors. I'll have to more aggressively test my range, thanks for the heads up.
I'd love to hear your findings. My Xbee with the chip antenna I put inside here. I took out the WiShield adapater and just put it right down in the same spot. It puts the chip antenna almost directly under the LCD's U2 blob there. I'm pretty sure the reason the reception is so terrible is that the module was sandwiched between two circuit boards, inside a pretty solid enclosure, right next to a 12V MOSFET turning on and off 500 times a second.

I've got two wire whip Zigbee series 2 modules that work twice as far at least even though one is mounted inside a wall (drywall). I haven't tried the two series 1 Xbees with wire whips in the HeaterMeter... not... enough... time!
 
The problem is that we're not "hoping for the best" at all. Turning on and off is what the digital ports do and their rise / fall time is stated to be 3.2nS (typ) for the SPI bus, so you can assume they're all in that range. However, their response is based heavily on load, capacitance, and grounding. If you think about it, the SPI bus, which is just a collection of digital pins that can read and write from a special register, it can run at 10MHz. That's 100nS for the whole period of writing a bit. Therefore the rise / fall time needs to be at most 50nS each.

Given that we can assume they should be able to switch in under 50nS. Unfortunately, this is several orders of magnitude smaller than the Arduino can time. Even your pin with its extremely low speed switch might not be able to be timed. It could probably be detected with code something like this:
<pre class="ip-ubbcode-code-pre">
const unsigned char OUT = 4;
const unsigned char IN = 5;

void setup()
{
Serial.begin(9600);
pinMode(OUT, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(OUT, LOW);
pinMode(IN, INPUT);
}

void loop()
{
delay(1000);

digitalWrite(OUT, HIGH);
if (digitalRead(IN))
Serial.print("HIGH: OK, ");
else
Serial.print("HIGH: FAIL, ");

digitalWrite(OUT, LOW);
if (digitalRead(IN))
Serial.println("LOW: FAIL");
else
Serial.println("LOW: OK");
}
</pre>
I haven't tested that except for compilation.

But the point is that digital pins turn on and off. That's their job, and they are designed to do it on the order of a handful of nanoseconds. If they're not, then there's something wrong either with the chip or the circuit. I wonder if there's something about the schematic that isn't right?
 
And one more post to change topics. Good news, everyone! I definitely have found the memory leak in LuCId. We have been up and running a whole day with narry an increase in memory usage. That means I'll be able to get back to wrapping up the next big update, with a better design that is more correct, faster, and uses less memory (and a tiny bit less storage). I've been tracking this down for so long I've forgotten what the point was to begin with!
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
And one more post to change topics. Good news, everyone! I definitely have found the memory leak in LuCId. We have been up and running a whole day with narry an increase in memory usage. That means I'll be able to get back to wrapping up the next big update, with a better design that is more correct, faster, and uses less memory (and a tiny bit less storage). I've been tracking this down for so long I've forgotten what the point was to begin with!

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What is going on here? The thread is longer then it is shorter. I see you all adding things then removing them. FYI I'll start a new more organized thread as soon as the next version is out, there are some big changes in it and I don't want to confuse anyone by referring to old packages.

(linkmeterd and uhttpd are both replaced with lucid, and the linkmeterd configuration is in another file)
 
What some people did not realize from the beginning of this thread(slashdot) was the Heatermeter+router was changing and evolving into something that is much better then where it started.

Now, its to a point of being mature and the info for the build can be combined into a few post.

Slashdot, I think did not know this was still a work in progress and of course the info would be hard to read and understand
 
Originally posted by Ed Pinnell:
Not to mention that @#$#!%^# bleepin' MediaFire and their server maintenance!

Hear! Hear! I would say on the order of several light years better if you were to ask me!

Yeah, its lightyears better, now. The router part of the build is basically fool-proof, now. I remember having a hell of a time with DD-wrt. Now you just have to put in a few Urls and thats it.

Now, we have a few variations of Heatermeters(routers, Lcds, Blowers, ect..) Most of the troubleshooting, except for some nagging Lcd issue, has been done and now its time to get all the info into a good how-to and along with other variations that can be done to the heatermeter. I believe Brians wiki will be great when finished.
 
Yup! Yeah the problem was that Slashdot came right as we were finishing up figuring out what worked. I was planning on doing the wiki once I figure out what the heck I was doing but they came too early! That's why I figure these threads are mostly to throw out new ideas or complain about what doesn't work properly and the real documentation is in in some web pages.

I haven't gotten a whole lot done this weekend. Trying to get the install to work correctly which means I am doing a lot of waiting for the build, flashing the firmware, reverting to default, and doing it again. It takes a while to test! For some reason my SD card isn't working at all any more too, I need to figure out if that's something I've broken. It sees the SD card, can tell there's 2 partitions on it, but if I go to mount either of them the mount just hangs indefinitely. I've jockeyed with so much wiping and reconfiguring I wonder if I just have a wrong value somewhere.

And Ed, you're going to want to have that SD card to store histories! I know I have been saving my RRDs through the wipes so I'll have my archives to check cook times or just look at pretty graphs.

EDIT: Oh forgot to mention that my breadboard LinkMeter Remote node is still running of that same single <600mA NiCad AA battery. Has been going since June 17th!
 

 

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