HeaterMeter + LinkSys WiFi Router = LinkMeter


 
So I just had a bit of a hmmmmm moment. With the SD card hack/addition, what about using an Eye-Fi module to leave out the router and/or the wishield option of the heatmeter build? It's about $50 retail for a 4gb card. Could be an interesting modification if it's possible.

Thoughts?
 
Originally posted by Mike Gravt:
So I just had a bit of a hmmmmm moment. With the SD card hack/addition, what about using an Eye-Fi module to leave out the router and/or the wishield option of the heatmeter build? It's about $50 retail for a 4gb card. Could be an interesting modification if it's possible.
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I considered it back when looking for cheap WiFi. The problem with the Eye-Fi cards is that they only transmit images and unless you buy the super-expensive pro Ad-hoc version, you actually upload through their servers. They're even smart enough to not upload a text file renamed to a JPG.

Just yet another instance of "why the hell can companies make this stuff yet I can't find a similar part". I mean seriously how do they fit a WiFi transceiver in an SD card and sell it for as low as $25?!
 
yeah, that's a bummer. I've just been looking at the hacking community for the card, and as of yet there really isn't anything useful for hacking the cards firmware. Kind of disappointing really. Problem is it just needs more interest. They are using eOs and released their source for that, but they have proprietorial code for the wifi drivers, so no luck with source there.

I've purchased all my parts to start my build, should be here tomorrow. Decided to do the heatmeter build and connect to a dd-wrt router I already have via usb. Hopefully i can get it all working
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Originally posted by John Bostwick:
Can I upgrade to this using the gui on the router or do I have use Wget to up date to v2
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I have had problems with using the gui to update firmwares on the router due to running out of memory (the firmware is saved in the ramdisk which eats memory needed to do the flashing). I haven't tried it though since I've optimized memory use of the luci process. You can try it, worst case would be you'd need to flash the BIN file via tftp if it fails.

The HeaterMeter you should be able to update from the GUI no problem. I just figured I'd put that in the instructions via wget because you're already at the command line anyway right?
 
Bah that's right, the old avrupdate had a ton of stuff in it to remove the MIME headers. Just skip that first step and upgrade from the web page after the upgrade.

(download the HEX file and use the AVR Upgrade page to flash it)
 
That's confusing. If there's no LinkMeter installed, you'd get the standard admin interface. Also I just verified that LinkMeter is actually in the router image posted. Maybe the web process crapped out for some reason on startup? The installation restarts the service so maybe.
 
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I tried again this morning and it seems to be updated. I can click on the probes and turn them on or off and it seems to load faster.
 
Originally posted by Steve Swinnea:
Steve.lbr
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Oh no! These links are down and I would like to modify your button part so the schematic representation is smaller. I'm trying to get out a new EAGLE file and board and squeezing the 4-way switch into the schematic is a little difficult given how big it is. Do I even need the library to modify it? I'll have to try that later.

Here's what I've got so far (just so it confuses people). I think it is a little more clear and has the benefit of probe 3 being an ambient sensor if nothing is plugged in, or an external probe if something is in the jack! Still not done though so don't anyone go trying to build this
7B0yA.png


I'm hoping to get the board layout done tomorrow and get it in to the next Dorkbot run.
 
from my experience over at the Arduino forums. They recommend using a Logic level Mosfet when using it as a turn on for 12 volts.

Although, the IRL510 has no problem with the small blower, anything bigger and it can cause problems, like what I had, lol.

It does not saturate it fully and does not fully turn on. A logic level has a thinner gate which will turn on fully with a 5 volt connection to the Atmega.
 
Originally posted by John Bostwick:
Although, the IRL510 has no problem with the small blower, anything bigger and it can cause problems, like what I had, lol.
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Are you talking to me? The IRL510 is a logic level MOSFET. The non-logic-level part being an IRF510.
 
Originally posted by John Bostwick:
hmmm, now im confused, which is not hard to do.
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Hey you're preaching to the choir, man. If I could figure out the difference between the 800 different seemingly identical parts, I could have saved hundreds of hours on this project. At a Vgs (the Arduino PWM to ground) of 5V, and a Vds (the voltage we're switching vs ground) of 12V, the datasheet seems to say that we should be able to pull 8A. It also says that the max continuous is 5.6A at 5V Vgs. It all makes me shrug and be happy I have an HDTV that works.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Steve Swinnea:
Steve.lbr
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Oh no! These links are down and I would like to modify your button part so the schematic representation is smaller. I'm trying to get out a new EAGLE file and board and squeezing the 4-way switch into the schematic is a little difficult given how big it is. Do I even need the library to modify it? I'll have to try that later.

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Oops. I see someone had it for you. I had it in my personal space on a UT server and they went to a new server. All the files are there but not available to the outside world.

When school started I got buy. So you're making a mainboard? I started one but haven't done more than place the ATMEGA and resonator on the schematic. I just assumed I'd keep the button board as a separate board.

S.
 
Originally posted by Steve Swinnea:
So you're making a mainboard? I started one but haven't done more than place the ATMEGA and resonator on the schematic. I just assumed I'd keep the button board as a separate board.
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Yeah I'm making a mainboard, the first prototypes should be here next week. I eventually removed the buttons from the mainboard schematic too because EAGLE won't not let you connect them on the board if they are on the schematic.
 
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