Green Genesis 1000LX Build


 
Mark-Anaheim said:
I got Z-metals for top shelves and the bottom shelf and were cheap, I will check email. I even got the swing table rod brackets in ss and flavor bars in one heavy package.

Biggest thing is contact him via Craigslist and then communicate via email directly on bundling all the parts in 1 flat rate shipping box.
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Josh, sent you a DM with details as not sure I should publish the package deal he gave me on all the parts online.
 
Mark-Anaheim said:
I got Z-metals for top shelves and the bottom shelf and were cheap, I will check email. I even got the swing table rod brackets in ss and flavor bars in one heavy package.

Biggest thing is contact him via Craigslist and then communicate via email directly on bundling all the parts in 1 flat rate shipping box.
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Perfect! I've ordered a couple times from him but haven't had a chance to ask him about the Z metal yet
 
Josh Dekubber said:
Thank you Mark! Also thank you for sharing. I can't wait to see your 2000 all finished. I bet it looks so very nice!!

After getting this grill home i have to say as excited as I am and have been to do some different types of custom wood on these old Webers this one looked damn good to me with the grey durawood in its original factory configuration. I see nothing wrong with it as is. I'm still going to use the wood I have ordered mounted in separate Z metal. I'll try it on there and decide if I want to keep it on there or not.

Those rubber mats you linked are genius. What a great way to protect the slats when in use. I'm also going to use a heavy duty marine grade boat varnish on my new wood slats. My wife had me order extra wood and wants me to make butcher block serving trays that match. I'll have to finish those with a food safe finish.

If you don't mind me asking how much was a full Set of Z metal from RCplanebuyer for your 2000? I know you went over the top with that build and you bought it new and used it all these years! So cool! I am really looking forward to seeing your finished product and hearing all about it!
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Marine Varnish, or Spar Varnish in general never fully harden. They stay kind of rubbery to allow the wood to expand and contract. They have great UV protection and hold up well in direct sun and places with seasons and temp swings.

Being an ex woodshop teacher, combined with spraying 100+ Jet Skis with Air Craft Urethane, a ton of painting experience.
My brother has a beautiful woodshop, and I built all the cabinets in my house and as you know finish is everything.
WE use General Finishes High Performance on all interior things. I used GF Exterior 450 which has UV for my Weber Slats and their oil stain. You have to let stain dry 4 days, before putting water based over.

General Finishes make up for the cost with dry time and durability. You can spray top of slats and in 5 minutes dry to touch to flip on nail sticks to paint the back side. I put 3 coats on 45 slats, and 2 handles with sanding in 1 day, try that with Varnish.

I have a PVC spray booth I created but have zero dust issues because GF dries to touch so fast like 4 minutes. Expensive but worth every penny. My kitchen took 15 years to show enough wear to put a fresh coat of the GF on, and I am a slob.
 
Mark-Anaheim said:
Marine Varnish, or Spar Varnish in general never fully harden. They stay kind of rubbery to allow the wood to expand and contract. They have great UV protection and hold up well in direct sun and places with seasons and temp swings.

Being an ex woodshop teacher, combined with spraying 100+ Jet Skis with Air Craft Urethane, a ton of painting experience.
My brother has a beautiful woodshop, and I built all the cabinets in my house and as you know finish is everything.
WE use General Finishes High Performance on all interior things. I used GF Exterior 450 which has UV for my Weber Slats and their oil stain. You have to let stain dry 4 days, before putting water based over.

General Finishes make up for the cost with dry time and durability. You can spray top of slats and in 5 minutes dry to touch to flip on nail sticks to paint the back side. I put 3 coats on 45 slats, and 2 handles with sanding in 1 day, try that with Varnish.

I have a PVC spray booth I created but have zero dust issues because GF dries to touch so fast like 4 minutes. Expensive but worth every penny. My kitchen took 15 years to show enough wear to put a fresh coat of the GF on, and I am a slob.
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I did some research online and found one that seemed to review well and purchased it. It's on its way. Can you tell me if it's good or not. I think I can return it to Amazon if you say it's not good.
 
Mark-Anaheim said:
Marine Varnish, or Spar Varnish in general never fully harden. They stay kind of rubbery to allow the wood to expand and contract. They have great UV protection and hold up well in direct sun and places with seasons and temp swings.

Being an ex woodshop teacher, combined with spraying 100+ Jet Skis with Air Craft Urethane, a ton of painting experience.
My brother has a beautiful woodshop, and I built all the cabinets in my house and as you know finish is everything.
WE use General Finishes High Performance on all interior things. I used GF Exterior 450 which has UV for my Weber Slats and their oil stain. You have to let stain dry 4 days, before putting water based over.

General Finishes make up for the cost with dry time and durability. You can spray top of slats and in 5 minutes dry to touch to flip on nail sticks to paint the back side. I put 3 coats on 45 slats, and 2 handles with sanding in 1 day, try that with Varnish.

I have a PVC spray booth I created but have zero dust issues because GF dries to touch so fast like 4 minutes. Expensive but worth every penny. My kitchen took 15 years to show enough wear to put a fresh coat of the GF on, and I am a slob.
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TotalBoat - 409314 Gleam Marine Spar Varnish, Gloss and Satin Polyurethane Finish for Wood, Boats and Outdoor Furniture (Clear Gloss Quart) https://a.co/d/01SfbwZO

It looks like it is non-returnable but I can still get something different if you recommend it
 
Steve Hoch said:
That's interesting. I asked him about those a few years ago and he said he didn't make them. I hope you post pictures of yours.
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Maybe he does not get a lot of requests for those table supports, I emailed him a picture and said yes he had them. So I got all the Z-metals for 3 top tables, and 2 sets for the bottom table and swing rod brackets with flavor bars. He shipped in one Flat Rate box, which made these quite affordable.

I had the SS Z-metals sandblasted and powder coated with the frames.
 

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Mark-Anaheim said:
Maybe he does not get a lot of requests for those table supports, I emailed him a picture and said yes he had them. So I got all the Z-metals for 3 top tables, and 2 sets for the bottom table and swing rod brackets with flavor bars. He shipped in one Flat Rate box, which made these quite affordable.

I had the SS Z-metals sandblasted and powder coated with the frames.
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That is beautiful stuff!!!
Can't wait to see your finished build. How about a sneak peek picture?

Did you drill those or did he?
 
Josh Dekubber said:
TotalBoat - 409314 Gleam Marine Spar Varnish, Gloss and Satin Polyurethane Finish for Wood, Boats and Outdoor Furniture (Clear Gloss Quart) https://a.co/d/01SfbwZO

It looks like it is non-returnable but I can still get something different if you recommend it
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From Amazon:
  • CLASSIC MARINE VARNISH contains premium tung oil, phenolic resins and UV blockers for a beautiful transparent amber finish on all types of interior and exterior wood on boats, strip canoes, kayaks, outdoor wooden bar tops, garage doors, furniture and more
  • DURABLE URETHANE SPAR VARNISH with maximum UV resistance; it remains flexible after curing, and won't peel or crack when the wood expands and contracts with seasonal humidity and temperature changes
Josh, this type of Varnish is a very high-build product which in my opinion turns wood into plastic like the old resin tables from the 70s. While I like that super polished European cabinet finish in a Yacht with no grain and high gloss, not on my BBQ or home cabinets.

I don't like the Amber finish from oil-based finishes affecting my stain color and continuing to yellow more each year. GF is milky white in the can but crystal clear when sprayed or brushed. I used a cheap HVLP spray gun on the compressor for GF to get the light film thickness.

GF you apply 2-3 very light coats, and as I mentioned you can flip part in 5 minutes to paint the back if you use nail sticks so only a few points touch the back.

I would guess Varnish you would have 3 days into finishing, vs less than 1 day with GF. Rockler sells online or in-store, I would say you might want to try on one of your wood working projects or grills

Here is the handle with 3 coats and really bright reflective kitchen lights, but you can see White Oak grain still exists. White Oak is tighter grain and holds up better outside than Red.
 

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Mark-Anaheim said:
From Amazon:
  • CLASSIC MARINE VARNISH contains premium tung oil, phenolic resins and UV blockers for a beautiful transparent amber finish on all types of interior and exterior wood on boats, strip canoes, kayaks, outdoor wooden bar tops, garage doors, furniture and more
  • DURABLE URETHANE SPAR VARNISH with maximum UV resistance; it remains flexible after curing, and won't peel or crack when the wood expands and contracts with seasonal humidity and temperature changes
Josh, this type of Varnish is a very high-build product which in my opinion turns wood into plastic like the old resin tables from the 70s. While I like that super polished European cabinet finish in a Yacht with no grain and high gloss, not on my BBQ or home cabinets.

I don't like the Amber finish from oil-based finishes affecting my stain color and continuing to yellow more each year. GF is milky white in the can but crystal clear when sprayed or brushed. I used a cheap HVLP spray gun on the compressor for GF to get the light film thickness.

GF you apply 2-3 very light coats, and as I mentioned you can flip part in 5 minutes to paint the back if you use nail sticks so only a few points touch the back.

I would guess Varnish you would have 3 days into finishing, vs less than 1 day with GF. Rockler sells online or in-store, I would say you might want to try on one of your wood working projects or grills

Here is the handle with 3 coats and really bright reflective kitchen lights, but you can see White Oak grain still exists. White Oak is tighter grain and holds up better outside than Red.
Click to expand...
Mark That looks really good!!

I will find and buy what you use.

Can you post a link or else I will try and find it and post it on here and make sure it's the right one.
 
Mark-Anaheim said:
From Amazon:
  • CLASSIC MARINE VARNISH contains premium tung oil, phenolic resins and UV blockers for a beautiful transparent amber finish on all types of interior and exterior wood on boats, strip canoes, kayaks, outdoor wooden bar tops, garage doors, furniture and more
  • DURABLE URETHANE SPAR VARNISH with maximum UV resistance; it remains flexible after curing, and won't peel or crack when the wood expands and contracts with seasonal humidity and temperature changes
Josh, this type of Varnish is a very high-build product which in my opinion turns wood into plastic like the old resin tables from the 70s. While I like that super polished European cabinet finish in a Yacht with no grain and high gloss, not on my BBQ or home cabinets.

I don't like the Amber finish from oil-based finishes affecting my stain color and continuing to yellow more each year. GF is milky white in the can but crystal clear when sprayed or brushed. I used a cheap HVLP spray gun on the compressor for GF to get the light film thickness.

GF you apply 2-3 very light coats, and as I mentioned you can flip part in 5 minutes to paint the back if you use nail sticks so only a few points touch the back.

I would guess Varnish you would have 3 days into finishing, vs less than 1 day with GF. Rockler sells online or in-store, I would say you might want to try on one of your wood working projects or grills

Here is the handle with 3 coats and really bright reflective kitchen lights, but you can see White Oak grain still exists. White Oak is tighter grain and holds up better outside than Red.
Click to expand...
Mark Is this the right stuff?
General Finishes Exterior 450 Water Based Topcoat, 1 Quart, Gloss https://a.co/d/0hrCSKfV
 
Mark-Anaheim said:
Maybe he does not get a lot of requests for those table supports, I emailed him a picture and said yes he had them. So I got all the Z-metals for 3 top tables, and 2 sets for the bottom table and swing rod brackets with flavor bars. He shipped in one Flat Rate box, which made these quite affordable.

I had the SS Z-metals sandblasted and powder coated with the frames.
Click to expand...
Nice stuff. He probably started making them after enough people started asking him about them. Good to know.
 
Josh Dekubber said:
Mark That looks really good!!

I will find and buy what you use.

Can you post a link or else I will try and find it and post it on here and make sure it's the right one.
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We like the oil-based GF gel stains vs their WB. We let them fully cure for 5 days before applying the WB top coats.

This is the exterior semi-gloss I use.

For interior cabinets, we use this product. We can finish an entire set of kitchen cabinets in 1 day with 3 coats and 2 people to flip and sand.

Living in the city we are space-challenged and don't have drying racks like cabinet shops for these parts to sit for days between coats.
 
Mark-Anaheim said:
We like the oil-based GF gel stains vs their WB. We let them fully cure for 5 days before applying the WB top coats.

This is the exterior semi-gloss I use.

For interior cabinets, we use this product. We can finish an entire set of kitchen cabinets in 1 day with 3 coats and 2 people to flip and sand.

Living in the city we are space-challenged and don't have drying racks like cabinet shops for these parts to sit for days between coats.
Click to expand...

Oil based staain amd water based clear works? My understanding was that you shouldn't mix. I believe you, just wondering...
 
Josh Dekubber said:
That is beautiful stuff!!!
Can't wait to see your finished build. How about a sneak peek picture?

Did you drill those or did he?
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They came pre-drilled for stock slats. This was my quick and dirty jig for assembly using 3/8" nuts as spacers on 1.5" slats. On the longer bottom Z-metals I added a couple pennies to get correct spacing.

I clamped them and drilled a small pilot hole and used SS screws
 

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Mark-Anaheim said:
They came pre-drilled for stock slats. This was my quick and dirty jig for assembly using 3/8" nuts as spacers on 1.5" slats. On the longer bottom Z-metals I added a couple pennies to get correct spacing.

I clamped them and drilled a small pilot hole and used SS screws
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I love it Mark! You didn't cut any corners. Excellent craftsmanship.

Also that wood grain looks beautiful
 
DannyGarcia said:
Oil based staain amd water based clear works? My understanding was that you shouldn't mix. I believe you, just wondering...
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Oil base paints or stains need to be fully cured for water-based topcoats. GF does make water-based stains but they don't apply or provide the same quality results as their oil-based gel.

So we apply the Oil-based stains and let them dry for a week before we apply the top coats.

Here is a picture of the stain drying.

Also a picture of my PVC spray booth in the driveway, and my nail stick racks used for topcoats. I had to shoot nails on 1/2" centers since these slats are only 1.5" wide, whereas as cabinet doors we can use 3" centers. With the almost instant dry time, and the nail points they will not leave a mark, and by the time you finish 40+ slats flip and paint the backside.

I use a lazy susan with plywood top in the spray booth with nail sticks for wood. Used this for the rattle cans on the firebox and end caps, so you just spin to paint all the side and not walk in circles
 

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