Thanks Steve! Is it the same with the emblem? Or is the Emblem on a Tinnerman style flat push cap?
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From Drab to Fab - Putting together a "How-To" Restoration Guide
- Thread starter PaulD
- Start date
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- Tags
- guide restoration
Thanks Bruce. Once I get the black gunk off the inside I should be able to see what I have. Is it easier to clean the inside of the lid with the aluminum sides off? I was going to clean the inside with a razor scraper, some 0000 steel wool and Simple Green. I also bought some degreaser but I plan to use that on the aluminum sides and outside of the firebox before I paint. The inside of the firebox I am planing on using a wire brush cup on a drill with a handle.
Steve Hoch
TVWBB Olympian
Yes, I use a razor blade to get under those to loosen them up along with a small flat blade screwdriver. You can get new ones to replace them at Ace hardware if needed.
Cody Bratton
TVWBB Emerald Member
I’ve found that the initial razor scraping of the inside of the lid is easier and more stable with the lid end caps still on. I also think it helps protect the outside of the porcelain from getting nicked up.
Thanks! Another newbe question - this sounds stupid but when I eventually take the lid aluminum end caps off to de-grease and repaint, how do I remove the bolts if the heads of the bolts are round. I understand the inside nuts are hex but what do I use at the other end to hold the bolt while I take the nut off?
JSindorf
New member
Hey Val, welcome to the community...
I just did this on my first Weber renovation — a 1996 Spirit 500.
I learned much of what I am about to share from the experts on this forum. This info is not original to me, but I have found that it works:
The original bolts on my grill were smooth flat heads with splines to give them some grab inside the aluminum endcaps. They were secured by self-thread cutting nuts (I believe 7/16" -- like most bolts you'll encounter on these amazing grills. About half of mine came out by just putting a socket on my impact driver (yep, overkill... you can use a ratchet) and lefty-loosey they came off very easily. The others started to release and then the flat head started spinning. Here's what I did to get them off...
Spray some penetrant on the threads, let it sit for a while. While it is penetrating, go find a skinny blade flat screwdriver. Push the bolt out from the nut side using your hand. Slide the screwdriver in the thin gap that now exists between the bolt head and the endcap. Put some pressure on the screwdriver to pull the bolt, bringing the nut up against the endcap. Now put the socket back on the nut while continuing to hold pressure on the bolt. I like using a drill or driver since it works quickly and your hands are already busy on separate tasks.
If it doesn't work, pull out the skinny screwdriver and grab a bigger one. Now put that between the nut and the endcap. Turn or lift it to put pressure on the nut allowing the splines on the bolt to grab. Again, use the 7/16" socket and drill/driver to spin the nut off.
This worked for me. I guess if it doesn't work for you, I'd get a dremel with cut-off disc and zip off the nut and then tap the bolt out.
Either way, replace the bolt/nut with stainless.
I use these bolts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CYVDCL6M?tag=tvwb-20
and nuts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNQY3TVT?tag=tvwb-20
Good luck...
Thanks! Believe it or not, I now have three Webers, 2 model B's and one model A. One of the model B's I am cleaning and refurbishing for a gentleman that did not want to part with his old family Weber because all the new grills he bought were not as good as his 20 year old model B. The other B I am restoring for myself. The model A is what got me started. All this happened in a matter of a few weeks. The help I have had on this site is tremendous! 
