From Drab to Fab - Putting together a "How-To" Restoration Guide


 
Well, the current finish on the doors is paint. Probably better than the average rattle can paint, so however you want to deal with that if you don't want to repaint.

Barkeepers Friend on the stainless side tables. Make sure you scrub with the grain though. Use a SS polish when done.

One last thing on the end caps. If you are using brush on, it is the flat stuff. I like that for the cook box, but on end caps, I prefer the Semi Gloss Rustoleum Ultra High temp, black.
 
MLimanti said:
Any suggestions for restoring the "painted" doors on a Genesis E-320 that I thought would clean up easy like the porcelain?

Also any tips or products to use on the polished stainless trim and brushed stainless side tables?
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Yeah, unfortunately, the doors are not porcelain coated like the hood. That's why @Bruce recommended that you use paint. Hopefully, you can find a close match color. We have seen where member @Dave in KC changed his 300 series doors to red. I have repainted black doors black. It can be done, although probably not as good as original - but way better than scratched up.
 
I'm guessing your doors are probably sun faded? If you don't want to repaint them you could try waxing/ buffing them with an automotive wax.
 
Question: How do you all remove a side burner grill knob that is totally stuck on without damaging the porcelain.
 
Samuel said:
Question: How do you all remove a side burner grill knob that is totally stuck on without damaging the porcelain.
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Get some hard plastic between the face of the control panel and the knob. Then slide in 2 small screwdrivers between the knob and the panel and gently pry. Also at harbor freight they sell plastic trim removal tools which look like mini crowbars. Those will not scratch.
 
I would maybe try to squirt a touch of penetrating oil up into where the valve stem goes into the knob. That stuff usually comes with one of those long straws and can be sprayed upside down for a second or two. You just need a little anyway. Let it set an hour or two and try it again....I agree to put a piece of plastic or even a thin piece of wood (paneling) under anything you use to pry with. If you get to prying really hard, be careful you don't start bending the manifold up. You might want to reach under there and hold it down a bit with one hand while you pry.
 
Samuel, on more caution. I would still put something under the pry bar to distribute the load. Too much pressure in one specific spot could crease the panel which not only would bend the metal but run the risk of cracking the porcelain coating.
 
Thanks Bruce and LMicheals. I sprayed it with a little carb cleaner and used the trim pry bar flat head screwdriver trick and it came right off.
 
Built space stuff for years in a previous job. PB Blaster (or any other oil lube) would not be allowed.
When we had stainless fasteners seize in stainless HeliCoils, sometimes a tiny squirt of Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) worked as a lubricant. That's also what I use when removing and installing hand grips on my bikes.
I tend to start with the most benign solvent.
 
Bruce said:
You can screw that directly into the manifold, but the elbow is on there to alleviate the strain on the hose that would occur if it points straight down. The elbow allows it to run more directly to the tank.

They are not specialty. I am pretty sure I have a couple if you cannot find one but I think they are readily available online.
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Is the elbow necessary if the tank is sitting on the ground?
Thanks.
 
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