Found a 1993 Weber Genesis 1000 LP


 
Yeah, like I said, I'll upgrade from the oak slabs with the Helmsman when they start to look bad. Also, I've noticed that the Rustoleum High Heat matte spray paint is already starting to fade off on the corners of the lid. Has this happened to anyone else in such a short amount of time? I followed the instructions on the can when I applied it.
BGoowx6.jpg
 
The Rusto paint is not going to be nearly as durable as the stuff that Weber uses. But, I used the gloss black and for a year now, mine are still holding up well. You can pull the end caps every so often and respray them if necessary, but I would suggest that you use the gloss next time. Gloss paints are usually more durable. That is why they use them more often in kitchens and bathrooms. Try scrubbing matte paint and it takes it off. Oh, and at least 2-3 coats. I also wipe mine down with rubbing alcohol just before spraying them to make sure all the contaminants are cleaned off.
 
Last edited:
Yeah you want to make sure you wipe the stuff down with a good solvent. Try to get as much of the oils out of the metal as you can as after years of cooking oils will have penetrated the metal which being castings are quite porous so anything you can do to get rid of the oils helps longevity. I'd something much stronger than alcohol. Some denatured alcohol or even lacquer thinner or enamel reducer. Use it liberally. My old Genesis 2 (now a 3) has not had any paint issues and I did it well over 12 years ago. But I really cleaned them with strong solvent as I mentioned
 
Larry, do you know if the paint thinner/lacquer thinner will eat into the existing paint on the end caps? When I paint over bare aluminum like when I totally strip an endcap, I think the alcohol is OK just to remove any stray oils or junk from handling the end cap, but I was leery to use paint thinner and other solvents when painting over the existing weber paint or enamel thinking that it might start to strip it.
 
It does etch it but it will not remove it. I usually use "reducer" and it cleans it very well, leaves no residue and ready for paint
 
Mine although not as bad and I used High Heat Ultra basically my sidecaps were a mess so I had to wire brush them more than normal. I did not get them totally flat so there were some of the texture left no paint on them though or very little. I gave them 3 coats maybe not enough but as soon as I fired it up under heat you could see the texture as it burned right through the paint.

Maybe Larry is on to something using the denatured alcohol or even lacquer thinner before hand might have made a difference. I am going to repaint them and use something different will let you know what I use and how it comes out but leaning toward brake caliper paint.
 
I am going to try this will be a few weeks.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B006ZLRBBO/tvwb-20#customerReviews

Its good to 900 and does not have the crappy nozzle the ultra has so you won't break your finger spraying it.

On my 1000 I had run out of ultra and Jon had supplied me with a trim piece and a tank scale bracket so I used this.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Ole...93696&wl11=online&wl12=16816072&wl13=&veh=sem

I found it sprayed way better than the ultra and a much heavier coat but let me warn you it needs a few days to dry as its supposed to be baked on with the heat but I had no problem by letting the pieces dry for 3 days.

I also need to redo the left frame piece where the firebox bolts into that showed some rust recently also even though I used ultra on it.
 
Brian, I took my endcaps down to bare aluminum, wiped them with rubbing alcohol and then shot them with Rustoleum Ultra gloss. A year later and dozens of cooks with temps pushing past 600 degrees at times. They are flat and nice still today....
 
Brian, let me know how that paint works. I like the matte finish on the lid end caps and firebox though. I didn't do all of that, Bruce, but if it keeps fading away, I might give it a shot. Thanks for all of your help on this project!

I'm just about all done with the restoration. Just waiting on some small parts from Weber. Also, I had a question about whether or not there is supposed to be a nut on the bottom bolt (the one connected to the lever thing with the plastic cap around it) that's connected to the propane scale. Mine keeps falling off, and I don't remember if I took a nut off there to begin with. The top two have 1/4"-20 wing nuts, but this one seems smaller.

GFCCNOw.jpg
 
HCintineo: not sure exactly what part you are talking about on the scale. Can you post a photo of exactly what you are referring to?
 
The bottom bolt of the propane tank scale doesn’t have a nut/wingnut on it right now. I don’t remember if I took one off when I disassembled it. Does anyone know what is supposed to be on there?

qfdogkw.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Personally, I don't know what goes there if anything. But what I do know is WOW! Great job on that grill, enjoy it for another 20 years!
 
That one has me stumped, but I don’t think it needs anything. You have the two mounting pieces properly attached.

And, YES!, that is one stunning grill! Beautiful workmanship. You may have a hard time actually bringing yourself to use it;)!
 
HCintineo said:
Brian, let me know how that paint works. I like the matte finish on the lid end caps and firebox though. I didn't do all of that, Bruce, but if it keeps fading away, I might give it a shot. Thanks for all of your help on this project!

I'm just about all done with the restoration. Just waiting on some small parts from Weber. Also, I had a question about whether or not there is supposed to be a nut on the bottom bolt (the one connected to the lever thing with the plastic cap around it) that's connected to the propane scale. Mine keeps falling off, and I don't remember if I took a nut off there to begin with. The top two have 1/4"-20 wing nuts, but this one seems smaller.

GFCCNOw.jpg
Click to expand...

Great job on the wood for this grill. Looks very much like mine. However, that lid handle looks perfect. How did you recreate that so perfectly?
 
My guess that extra threaded post is there for adaptation to a different style grill. Weber used the same scales on several different styles of grills and that extra stud might just be needed on one of the other styles.
 
Here is a photo of mine on my 1993 Genesis 1000. Mine has a nut already on it, and I am guessing it is original and likely not one that I ever took off during my rehab of the grill. After looking at the photo, my guess is that the nut would need to be removed to disassemble the scale possibly. That is just a guess. Otherwise, my previous guess is my second choice.

mtC1xwK.jpg
 
Thanks, Jon and Bruce! I am very happy with how well it came out. Bruce, I figured there was a nut on there. It's definitely a smaller diameter than the wing nuts above it. I think a wing nut would be more user friendly to have on that bottom bolt. I'll try ti find the right size. Thanks again for uploading the pic!

Oh and the wood handle is the original. I just sanded it down and hit it was some Helmsman. It matches the oak tables really nicely.
 
Last edited:
Oh, the handle on mine was falling apart when I got it as were the shelf slats. I had to do my best to recreate it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top