Found a 1993 Weber Genesis 1000 LP


 
HCintineo said:
While doing some work on the grill tonight, I realized there is a screw that broke off in the firebox and is stuck. It’s one of the thumb screws from the manifold. What’s the best way of getting of that out?
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Whatever you do DON'T try to use a hammer and punch. I made that mistake on an old Ducane (the real ones before Weber got them and turned it into the Chinese junk boxes). Anyway after many years that aluminum casting due to all the heat/cool cycles gets VERY brittle and it shatters like glass
 
HCintineo said:
While doing some work on the grill tonight, I realized there is a screw that broke off in the firebox and is stuck. It’s one of the thumb screws from the manifold. What’s the best way of getting of that out?
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Are you talking about the screw on the left side going into the frame or are you talking about a manifold bolt the ones that had the wingnut. If the bolt on the left side broke at the head which is what mine did I was able to take some vise grips from the inside and just turn it so it unscrewed in the inside of the firebox so I did not have to drill it.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. It’s one the manifold screws (on the right side). I’m going to try to drill it out tonight.
 
Good luck. I know Larry said not to try to punch it out, which I agree with, but you can use a center punch to make a spot for the drill to start. I also use a smaller bit, maybe 1/8" to start and then once I get through or close, I change to a larger bit. The big thing is keeping it drilling down the middle of the bolt and not off to the side and into the aluminum. If you do, it isn't a big deal, there is plenty of play with the manifold.
 
Thanks, Bruce. I drilled it out and didn’t even realize the hole was threaded. Obviously it’s not anymore. I’m going to get a longer bolt to go through there and just put a nut on that end. Will that work?

Also, for the Weber logo, I know you guys say to use friction clips to hold those in. Where can I get those? I tried Home Depot, and they don’t have them. I’ll call Weber tomorrow and see what they say.
 
HCintineo said:
Thanks, Bruce. I drilled it out and didn’t even realize the hole was threaded. Obviously it’s not anymore. I’m going to get a longer bolt to go through there and just put a nut on that end. Will that work?

Also, for the Weber logo, I know you guys say to use friction clips to hold those in. Where can I get those? I tried Home Depot, and they don’t have them. I’ll call Weber tomorrow and see what they say.
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I was able to find similar ones at Ace. They were a little smaller in circumference but the opening was the same and they worked great. It might help if you can bring an old one to the store to show them.
 
Ace Hardware or True Value hardware for the "push nuts" on the back of the logo.

Yes, you can just put a nut on the bolt for the manifold. Make sure you use stainless steel bolts and nuts. Some "Never Seize" is a good idea as well to keep that from happening again.
 
HCintineo said:
Thanks, Bruce. I drilled it out and didn’t even realize the hole was threaded. Obviously it’s not anymore. I’m going to get a longer bolt to go through there and just put a nut on that end. Will that work?

Also, for the Weber logo, I know you guys say to use friction clips to hold those in. Where can I get those? I tried Home Depot, and they don’t have them. I’ll call Weber tomorrow and see what they say.
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Just use a tiny bit of black silicone high temp gasket maker. Won't take much at all and you have the advantage if you ever want to take it off a plastic putty knife slipped behind it works like a champ. Those clips are useless unless you're going for a 100 point restoration
 
I used some SS carriage bolts and SS wing nuts with lock washers on mine Worked like a champ. The newer ones do the same thing BTW. Another trick is use a little heat from a propane torch or a heat gun. Don't go over board but it can help
 
HCintineo said:
Thanks, Bruce. I drilled it out and didn’t even realize the hole was threaded. Obviously it’s not anymore. I’m going to get a longer bolt to go through there and just put a nut on that end. Will that work?

Also, for the Weber logo, I know you guys say to use friction clips to hold those in. Where can I get those? I tried Home Depot, and they don’t have them. I’ll call Weber tomorrow and see what they say.
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Did you save the wingnuts pretty sure the washers and the wingnuts were stainless steel don't think I replaced those but I did replace the bolts I believe. I would just take the bolt that you did not drill and match a new pair of stainless at your Ace make sure you use washers inside and out.

The manifold bracket does a lot of the work so hopefully you have that if not you should get it it holds the end of the manifold with the valves to the frame keeping it level. Those bolts aren't the only thing supporting the manifold.

Use anti-seize on the bolts going inside of the firebox I used them on the manifold bolts also before screwing the wing nuts on make it easier to get them off if you need to do it again.
 
Thanks for the ideas. Brian, I ended up drilling out the bolt that was stuck and replacing it with a slightly smaller hex bolt and nut. Seems to hold the manifold in just fine.

I’ve got everything reassembled up to this point and am starting to work on the wood slats. The original ones were all rotted out so I’m starting with some fresh wood.

HG6mbQE.jpg
 
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Looking really good so far. Use a weather resistant wood like cedar. Then stain it and use "SPAR" finish for a durable outdoor finish. Good luck and keep the photos coming.
 
HCintineo said:
Thanks for the ideas. Brian, I ended up drilling out the bolt that was stuck and replacing it with a slightly smaller hex bolt and nut. Seems to hold the manifold in just fine.

I’ve got everything reassembled up to this point and am starting to work on the wood slats. The original ones were all rotted out so I’m starting with some fresh wood.

https://imgur.com/gallery/uo905AP
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That is really coming out nice there are plenty of suggestions according to your skills on the slats and totally agree with Bruce stay with the cedar. Bruce has an inexpensive solution using cedar fence posts however you must rip them so a table saw is a must. Otherwise you can see some of my posts where you just buy 1x2's from Lowes and Home Depot and cut them to length.

The spar not used this yet another member did and I think Jon is going to give it a try. Its Marine grade so according to the other member after 2 years its doing fine. A little bit pricey compared to Helmsman but may be worth the money if this is a forever grill.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000LNS882/tvwb-20
 
Honestly I think an oil stain only is the best bet. It allows the wood to "breathe" properly and is easy to maintain
 
Probably right Larry. I used Teak oil and that helps protect it from the elements but it doesn't "seal" the wood like a varnish or spar would do.
 
I opted to make the side table (and I’m working on the swinging table) out of 1x2 oak boards. I know you guys gave me a lot of other advice (which I’ll use in the future when these wear out), but I figured this would be the cheapest and easiest option right now considering I’m already ~$200 into this project. I still need a few items that I’m waiting on from Weber (manifold bracket, spacer bracket, and drip pan + holder). And new grates which I’ll probably get from rcplanebuyer based on all of the amazing things I’ve heard here.

https://imgur.com/gallery/MioWNMS

Also, I still can’t find any replacement for the white nylon push tabs that hold the small part of the frame in front of the manifold. I’ve tried some automotive parts but nothing seems to fit right. Any tips for this one?
 
I figured out how to get the URL for the pics on imgur -> right-click on the image and then open in a new tab.

Copy the URL which will have a .jpg extensions. Voila:

l53v7C1.jpg
 
That type of wood actually from what I have been told should not be "sealed" due to it's natural oils. Which is why stains are what is best used
 
HCintineo said:
I opted to make the side table (and I’m working on the swinging table) out of 1x2 oak boards. I know you guys gave me a lot of other advice (which I’ll use in the future when these wear out), but I figured this would be the cheapest and easiest option right now considering I’m already ~$200 into this project. I still need a few items that I’m waiting on from Weber (manifold bracket, spacer bracket, and drip pan + holder). And new grates which I’ll probably get from rcplanebuyer based on all of the amazing things I’ve heard here.

https://imgur.com/gallery/MioWNMS

Also, I still can’t find any replacement for the white nylon push tabs that hold the small part of the frame in front of the manifold. I’ve tried some automotive parts but nothing seems to fit right. Any tips for this one?
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Good luck finding those white inserts I assume you mean the ones on the control panel end where you screw it to the frame, did you order from Weber yet I had to get those and with the screws they were like 5 dollars and change. Weber will usually throw you 5 bucks of stuff when you order from them
 
Larry, Oak will not survive without some kind of sealer stain is not sufficient. Think of your hardwood floors they may be stained but they have Poly on them if not spill some water on the floor and watch them warp before your eyes.

Its especially important if its outside, the cedar is different teak oil like Bruce used is fine I used a semi deck stain for mine as it added some color. The thing with the spar is it probably stops them from being stained by grease or other stuff on the grill.
 
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