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Jon Tofte

TVWBB Olympian
For my two cents worth - and that's all it is worth - I would think you could ever so slightly bump up a Q200/2000 orifice without stressing the grill. But it would have to be only a very small incremental change and done properly as Scott describes. I say this, because it does seem that the 200/2000 series Qs have a lower btu per square inch than the other Q grills. I would NOT try that on a 100/1000 or 300/3200 Q.

Also, I agree with Larry that if you are bumping up the heat output of your burner it seems a lot more risky to then also do additional mods that hold more of that heat below than a Q normally would. The Q plastic will melt even in OEM configuration if forgotten and left running for hours and hours, so this is not a concern based on paranoia or far-fetched speculaton.
 

LMichaels

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
FWIW I did this strip on the 320 last night. No insane heat needed. Did not "pickle" the steak ahead of time either. Ran the grill up to temp, allowed to stabilize, set outer burner to med and center to low, stabilize while giving the steak a touch of seasoning and grilled away.
Perfect steak house crust, perfectly rosy center, no gray band. I was always able to pull off the same cook on the Q220 I traded to Bruce for this grill, I get the same on my Genesis as well. And my dad's though in all honesty I do have a "mod" on my dad's Genesis I had been experimenting with a while back. I also did the same mod on the one I gave my son in law (which some may recall was my original grill bought WAY back in 92 new). I have not done it to my current Genesis (not because it does not work) only because I haven't run across the parts I used for my original and my dad's grill. If anyone wants further info on that mod I will be happy to share it. It is a SAFE mod and DOES actually work.
Now here is the steak. I will apologize for the lighting as the photo on the grill is lit only by the LED on the Q320 handle. On the cut pieces I did not have full lights on in the house. But I think both get the point across

steak1.jpg steak2.jpg
 

Jon Tofte

TVWBB Olympian
I guess I’ve just been lucky the last 500 grill outs. Lol
Troy,
I would certainly go with your experience vs. my speculation. I only said it SEEMS a lot more risky. Maybe not. I will say that you obviously have serious experience with these mods. I would, however, be still concerned about someone lacking that experience and then fooling around and over-boring orifices, adding deflectors, etc. and not having your knowledge to know when enough is enough.

I don't pick fights here, so I am sorry if it came across that way. I am truly glad you have a Q that does what you want it to do, and like most of us do enjoy seeing new ideas.
 

Joe Anshien

TVWBB Gold Member
You piqued my curiosity, and I did a bit of reading on the internet. It appears that the numbered drill bits are an antiquated system that was replaced by the fractional drill bits (which were way better), which in turn were replaced by the metric bits (which were way better still). The numbers themselves actually came from the corresponding gauges of British wire. The actual diameter of these bits was not necessarily standardized until much later.

Bruce - The actual difference between the #57 and the #58 that you are planning to purchase is a mere 1/1000 of an inch. I don't know your level of skill and equipment, but I certainly don't have the skill and equipment to drill anywhere near that accurately. A good drill press would obviously be a must. You would also need to know how to verify that drill press is good enough for that type of work. You may end up several thousandths over using either bit and never even know it.

If memory serves, old school machining was dividing into work that was measured in hundreds of an inch, thousandths of an inch, and ten thousands of an inch and priced according to what accuracy was required. The same half inch hole could be 0.5 inch +/- 0.01, 0.001, or 0.0001, depending on what accuracy was required. Hundredths was apprentice level stuff, thousands was hard but done every day. The really high spec stuff called for a master machinist and the best equipment.
You use a micro twist hand drill. Very easy. I bought this set from eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/350334033373 and something like this.
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Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Larry, the grill I am looking to boost the temp on is actually that red Q2xx I traded you for. :oops:
 

LMichaels

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Larry, the grill I am looking to boost the temp on is actually that red Q2xx I traded you for. :oops:
I never had trouble turning out results like I posted on that grill FWIW. And actually running the burner itself a little "hotter" may not hurt anything (other than your chicken or steak if you're not careful), as long as you don't do anything to trap heat in the lower part of the cook "box" PLUS increasing output. As long as the heat has a place to go. IOW not placing something on top of the grate, changing the grate or something on top of the burner, most of the excess will vent out the sides. Honestly with the way people are on here I actually am sorry I even commented on it. So, the offer stands. If someone wants to know and have me diagram out the SAFE Genesis mod I designed hit me up on a PM. Otherwise I am signing off this discussion.
 

Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
It will be on the stock grill but with those SS flat grates that both of us use on our respective Q grills.
 

Garvin R

TVWBB Fan
And fwiw if you want easier cleaning but still getting the great heating performance of the thick cast iron, the thick SS ones people like Bruce and I have bought. They perform every bit as well as OEM cast iron EXCEPT if you want grill marks that look painted on. They do give you an overall wonderful sear, just no lines. For those times I think I might want a steak looking like someone took a magic marker to it I kept my cast iron ones. But honestly have never put them back on. They are hanging in my garage
Both for my Q200 and my Char Q I have ss grates and they work great!

Scott
 

Ed P

TVWBB Emerald Member
Larry, the grill I am looking to boost the temp on is actually that red Q2xx I traded you for. :oops:
From what I have read here, and from what you already know, Bruce, is the first thing to go when the Q2xxx overheats are the screws that secure it to the leg. A conservative approach that was done by another member is to take a temp reading of the screw heads both before and after opening up the orifice just for reference - I think that's an excellent idea and should make you feel more secure - and maybe not doing the burn-off while in the house enjoying your meal. One thing I know about doing a burn-off on start-up is that the smell is delicious and really gets the appetite going! The other upside is that when you can see it smokin' that means the grill is about ready for cookin'.
 
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Bruce

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Ed, I know all about the screws in the legs melting down into the legs. I had that happen to my last Q2xx. I had put a regulator on it that was advertised for use with grills, but ran way too hot. I saw several reviews mentioning the issue when I looked afterwards.
 

 

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