Flavorizer bars for Q?


 
Hey George,
I really like your modding ideas. Don't take Larry's comments personally and don't let it discourage you from doing it here and posting about it! Once your here long enough you can almost predict his responses to some things. Sometimes I wonder if he would think putting aftermarket wheels on a car is a dangerous mod;-) I believe there are way more dangerous things out there in the world than playing around with your grill. Weber has to design a grill for the masses, and if that does not meet your needs and you want to pimp it out, that is what you do. I think that most people who have been "playing" with gas long enough have a healthy respect for it, and know what they are doing. What is way more dangerous IMHO are the idiots that don't clean their grills and risk grease fires.
 
I have used the same setup for my Q 1200 and Q 2200 for a couple of summers. Also ran it on the Q 3200 when I had it. One thing I did was check with a infrared thermometer when I first installed the Ceramic Grill Greats Briquettes was, check the temp of the bolts that attach the the Q to the plastic stand. It added about 30 degrees over stock setup at each bolt. I was worried that it would raise the temp of the mounting bolts and melt into plastic fame. I have ran my Q 2200 up to 600 degrees with no problems ( have tank mounted regulator ) It keeps the grill so much cleaner due to burning off any drippings. Probably not the right setup if you tailgate with the Q, mine don't move much.



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I see this setup being nice for cooking chicken. I have the same "grill greats" in my Broilmaster. I wish there was an easy cheap way to sandwich them so I could just flip them over to burn off / clean on side then the other. Some newer grills have that option.
 
All very interesting. I guess I have always been satisfied with the Qs I have used - all 3 models - in stock setup. No question using the tiles would make things cleaner. I find the Q grills to be pretty easy to clean overall, but the burners do clog fairly easily.

Although the 200/2000 has the lowest btu per square inch of the three models, I personally enjoyed cooking on it the most - not including my very favorite the CharQ.
 
I opened up the gas orifice and put a much better adjustable regulator on my Q2200 nine years ago and could not be happier!! I use this grill for searing steaks at 600 degrees on camping trips all summer long, and and can turn it down for low and slow cooking, it has performed flawlessly!!
I agree with Joe Anshien about Larry. He does not like change, and everything is dangerous, even though my many years of experience with these mods have proven him wrong, Enjoy your grill with the mods you have made, it is a definite improvement!!
 
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How did you drill out the orifice? Hand drill??? What size?
Reason I am asking is I have a Q220 that will heat up to only 400 or slightly above. And it takes a long time. I would like to hit about 500. I put a new regulator on my last Q2xx and while it said it was for grills, it put out way too much gas. I actually melted the Q2xx frame when I left it on over night and I think I was pushing 700 degrees fully heated. But, I would like a bit of boost on my current stock Q220.
 
Bruce, The Q220 puts out 12,000 BTU, that is a size 60 orifice drill bit, I used a 3/64 drill bit to make it 15,000 BTU and I hit 700 degrees on a hot day,
If you want to hit 500 degrees I would say a size 57 or 58. I used a hand drill, and I also opened up the air inlet to the max,
 
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If you want to round up or down to a regular drill bit
1/32 = 0.03125 inches = less BTU closer to 500 degrees
# 57 or #58 = 0.0420 inches
3/64 = 0.046875 inches = more BTU closer to 700 degrees
 
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So, can a guy buy these non-standard bits locally or do you usually have to order them?
 
Bruce said:
So, can a guy buy these non-standard bits locally or do you usually have to order them?
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Yeah, they actually are standardized bits. I have a set that includes them, but I don't know much about them.

My grandfather was a toolmaker. I think these bits go back to at least the early 1900's when workers would make parts one at a time from blueprints and drill and tap a lot of holes one at a time by hand.
 
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And I do ALL kinds of change. The little Qs have lots of plastic. Adding more heat is just a recipe for disaster on that lower housing and such. Especially if you do it in a way that forces more heat to hold inside the body. So thumb your noses all you want. When it comes to gas, girls and guns I ALWAYS choose "safe"
 
LMichaels said:
And I do ALL kinds of change. The little Qs have lots of plastic. Adding more heat is just a recipe for disaster on that lower housing and such. Especially if you do it in a way that forces more heat to hold inside the body. So thumb your noses all you want. When it comes to gas, girls and guns I ALWAYS choose "safe"
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Girls....Come on that just aint no fun;-)
 
You piqued my curiosity, and I did a bit of reading on the internet. It appears that the numbered drill bits are an antiquated system that was replaced by the fractional drill bits (which were way better), which in turn were replaced by the metric bits (which were way better still). The numbers themselves actually came from the corresponding gauges of British wire. The actual diameter of these bits was not necessarily standardized until much later.

Bruce - The actual difference between the #57 and the #58 that you are planning to purchase is a mere 1/1000 of an inch. I don't know your level of skill and equipment, but I certainly don't have the skill and equipment to drill anywhere near that accurately. A good drill press would obviously be a must. You would also need to know how to verify that drill press is good enough for that type of work. You may end up several thousandths over using either bit and never even know it.

If memory serves, old school machining was dividing into work that was measured in hundreds of an inch, thousandths of an inch, and ten thousands of an inch and priced according to what accuracy was required. The same half inch hole could be 0.5 inch +/- 0.01, 0.001, or 0.0001, depending on what accuracy was required. Hundredths was apprentice level stuff, thousands was hard but done every day. The really high spec stuff called for a master machinist and the best equipment.
 
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