Dave has probably done 50 to my 1, but here’s a finished Silver A


 
Greg M said:
Right. I did see that. I was just saying how good it looks and that most people wouldn't attempt that (like me!).
Click to expand...

I was actually going to try restoring the bottom, but I am glad I took Dave’s advice and just bought a new one from Weber for around $40. Initial grinding produced pretty poor results, and unless I was willing and able to do serious bondo work there was no way it would have looked decent. $40 well spent.

I did re-use some rust-damaged cabinetry. That’s where the Eastwood rust encapsulater is so nice. It not only converts the rust but hardens the pieces with a ceramic shell coating. After re-assembling the damage is hardly noticeable, but the new bottom really makes the cabinet look a thousand times better.

I felt the same way about the porcelain coated cast iron. If it was a keeper I might have tried hours of grinder wheel work to remove all the porcelain and then season it for use. For a flip, $30 stainless grates with no risk of porcelain flakes on food AND eye-catching shiny new looks seemed a way better option.
 
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Jon, can you post a link the the exact Eastwood product that you used. THe stuff I used was nothing more than primer IMO. I got no "Ceramic shell coating".
 
Jon: I tried to PM you regarding the sales flyer but your box is full.
I wouldn't mid an MS Word copy of the sales flyer. That is a great idea if you are selling grills on a display, but probably would be nice just to have on a grill that some one is coming to see from a CL or FB add.
Bruce
 
Bruce one thing about the Eastwood product is if you don't shake it REALLY REALLY well it does not work. Also there are 2 types of the same product. There is a secondary type and it does work VERY well in the given application.................it is thinner and it "penetrates" into seams and crack better. It's for frames and chassis. I used it on the frame of my old Infiniti QX4 in some trouble areas and also inside the doors. It worked like a champ but it's runny and it's MEEEEEEESSSSSY
 
No, I think I was using a completely different product. It was exactly like a primer. Very thin and matte color. Never any kind of glazing or anything like others describe.

That is why I would like to see a link the the EXACT product so that I can see if what I used was the same.
 
Bruce said:
Well, this is the stuff I used....looks exactly like the first link you posted. Just not sure why the difference in how it applies for me compared to others. I seriously would guess it is nothing more than a basic primer. There is no hard shell or anything like that for me.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-black-aerosol-15-ounce.html
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I actually used this stuff which I bought with the idea of using inside frame tubes but it also worked on my exterior pieces:

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

I have since bought a couple cans of their rust encapsulater which I assumed would be basically the same. Maybe not?
 
Jon, when you use it, tell me what you think of it. Tell me if doesn't seem like nothing more than a flat black primer.
 
Bruce the thing is with the RE is if it's not shaken until you think your arm will fall off it comes out watery and similar to what you described. It's not enough to hear the rattle ball. It takes nearly 5 full min to fully shake it well enough to use. Otherwise other than a faulty can of product I have no explanation for you
 
I used two different cans of the stuff. One red, one black. Both performed the same. I suppose maybe I didn't shake it enough....Only reasoning I can figure.
 
Eastwood Rust Encapsulator

Bruce said:
Well, this is the stuff I used....looks exactly like the first link you posted. Just not sure why the difference in how it applies for me compared to others. I seriously would guess it is nothing more than a basic primer. There is no hard shell or anything like that for me.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-black-aerosol-15-ounce.html
Click to expand...

LMichaels said:
Bruce the thing is with the RE is if it's not shaken until you think your arm will fall off it comes out watery and similar to what you described. It's not enough to hear the rattle ball. It takes nearly 5 full min to fully shake it well enough to use. Otherwise other than a faulty can of product I have no explanation for you
Click to expand...

I revived this thread because on Saturday I primed a couple bad parts for my personal Genesis Platinum (that should have been stainless like the frame). I used the Eastwood Rust Enscapsulator that Bruce links above.

tmreHTk.jpg


I thought I had shaken it fairly well, but what I got was a thin, watery coating I guess like Bruce may have experienced - not at all like my last very positive use of this product...Then I remembered Larry's admonition to shake until I "think may arm will fall off" and - what do you know - GREAT results, at least I think.

lQVA8Wi.jpg


That dry, matte look is also TOUGH. The metal at least FEELS stronger in spite of the rust damage. I assume it is the effect of the ceramic ingredients.

So, I think this IS a good product but not easy to get properly shaken up for use:rolleyes:.
 
Oh hell, then it was my fault and I was just not shaking it enough. Thanks for confirming that.
 
I've used that rust encapsulator a few times and never had any issues with it. I just gave a quick few shakes and sprayed it. Maybe I was just lucky. Anyway, when it does set up it seems like it's rock hard.
 
If someone didn't know better (pointing a finger at myself), I would say those cabinet handles were OEM. They look that good.
 
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