Brand New Damper Design - "The Micro Damper"


 
I can not get logged into 3D Hubs at the moment. As I remember, it was about $25ish for a set. I ordered 2 since it was cheaper. I used blue ABS. Not sure about the other settings but they did change the price. I was impressed with the low price. All mail order, no local pick up. But it was much cheaper than I could find locally. I also added one offset damper for a total of about $80. I wish I had used that money to buy a $500 3D printer.
They should arrive in the next few days and I will post how it worked out.
 
Joe Widmayer said:
I can not get logged into 3D Hubs at the moment. As I remember, it was about $25ish for a set. I ordered 2 since it was cheaper. I used blue ABS. Not sure about the other settings but they did change the price. I was impressed with the low price. All mail order, no local pick up. But it was much cheaper than I could find locally. I also added one offset damper for a total of about $80. I wish I had used that money to buy a $500 3D printer.
They should arrive in the next few days and I will post how it worked out.
Click to expand...

You dont need to blow $500 to get a decent machine these days. You can get the ender3 for around $175 on ebay, on their %15 store wide coupon days.
 
I just got the parts in the mail. I used blue ABS and other setting are in the order below. I order 2 Microdamper since there was a discount for 2. I also ordered parts for 1 offset rotary damper (Tom Kole). They came out really nice and strong.


Description Specifications Details Qty Price

body-2-MG90s.stl
73.0 × 29.5 × 130.8 mm
3D printing
Standard ABS (FDM)

Blue, 100% infill, 200μm

1

$17.58

$17.58 / PART


cylinder.stl
32.0 × 33.5 × 32.0 mm
3D printing
Standard ABS (FDM)

Blue, 100% infill, 200μm

1

$5.87

$5.87 / PART


fanhousing_1inNPT.stl
48.9 × 38.3 × 48.9 mm
3D printing
Standard ABS (FDM)

Blue, 100% infill, 200μm

2

$19.00

$9.50 / PART


housing-2-MG90s.stl
73.0 × 39.0 × 74.7 mm
3D printing
Standard ABS (FDM)

Blue, 100% infill, 200μm

1

$18.64

$18.64 / PART


servohousing_sg90.stl
48.9 × 31.2 × 48.9 mm
3D printing
Standard ABS (FDM)

Blue, 100% infill, 200μm

2

$14.42

$7.21 / PART


valvetop_sg90.stl
45.8 × 5.4 × 45.8 mm
3D printing
Standard ABS (FDM)

Blue, 100% infill, 200μm

2

$4.88

$2.44 / PART

Shipping $0.00
Subtotal $80.39
Sales tax 0%
$0.00
Total US$80.39
 
100% infill is also a lot, that's solid plastic. I usually print at 15% infill on the cases, and go as low at 10% and as high as 25% in normal printing. If their price has a material cost factor. Just a quick slicer math check gives me 70g with 15% infill, 139g with 100%.
 
Ralph,
I travel so I was looking for quick and easy. Not wanting to bother anyone. Everyone is very helpful here, just didn't want to impose. Since I was only looking for a few parts, cost was OK.

Bryan,
Your right. That's a lot of plastic. It sure is strong. I just didn't know for sure and was in a hurry so it would be there when I returned home. The additional cost didn't look too bad. Thanks for the advice. I will use it on future prints.

Thanks,
Joe Widmayer
 
Hey I was looking into this MicroDamper project and I was just wondering how do we connect the servo and the fan to the connector jack? Also, how would I be able to hardwire an ethernet cable directly to the microdamper?

I am sorry I just found the diagram on page 8 of this thread. Great stuff.
 
Dear SteveCK,

I send you some mails to order an microdamper kit to Netherlands but i do not get any reaction.

Are you that busy or Can i not order it?
 
Riku Naskali said:
Any change you could do a model that would accept a RJ45 Keystone connector inside it? I know it's going to be lot bigger, but those 4-pin jacks are impossible to find outside Mouser... I ordered some from ebay, but they are too long and won't fit inside the Microdamper assembly.

I wouldn't mind a bigger size, just would like to get a good looking connector securely inside the Microdamper.
Click to expand...

It's a great design, except for the connection. Not gonna risk frying my HM using a phono jack. Wish he would rethink the RJ45...
 
I used the bigger size model. Connected all the wire directly to each other which eliminated the use of a jack. Makes it easier. Just use shrink wrap to make sure the wire don’t touch and short. Obviously this will require a bit of soldering. Hope that helps.
 
Yeah the one I have I just soldered the ethernet cable directly to the blower and servo wires and then put a zip tie on it for strain relief and a rubber grommet. Its been sitting outside for 2 years now and still works perfectly.
 
Bryan Mayland said:
Yeah the one I have I just soldered the ethernet cable directly to the blower and servo wires and then put a zip tie on it for strain relief and a rubber grommet. Its been sitting outside for 2 years now and still works perfectly.
Click to expand...

Hi Bryan,

Did you modify the original design to accept 4 screws to hold the fan down? Or are you just using self tapping wood screws to hold the fan down? I'm tossing in between making this micro damper or the adapt-a-damper and the microdamper is very compelling since the prints are much less (both time and money wise).
 
Here is my MicroDamper setup on a Kamado Joe Classic II. It will work with other dampers too, as long as they attach with 1" NPT.

The mounting panel and cap fitting are 3D printed from PETG filament and have held up to 400°F cooks just fine. Don't bother printing these with PLA, it will not work with the heat involved. ABS and PETG are the only filaments I would recommend.

The PETG plastic is flexible enough to bend in order to get it into the vent slot, so you don't have to take anything apart. The cap is necessary to smother the coals at the end of a cook and also keep out critters that would make a home in the Kamado between cooks if left open. I'm in Florida, we have plenty.

If anyone wants them, the .stl files are available for free.

The nipple and locknuts are available from Home Depot and Amazon

Home Depot:
www.homedepot.com

Halex 1 in. Rigid Conduit Locknut (2-Pack) 96193 - The Home Depot

Enjoy the Halex 1 in. Conduit Locknuts (2-Pack) 96193, zinc-plated steel designed to cut through protective coatings to ensure ground continuity at The Home Depot
www.homedepot.com
and
www.homedepot.com

Halex 1 in. Rigid Conduit Nipple 64310 - The Home Depot

Find the Halex 1 in. Rigid Conduit Nipple 64310, galvanized extend a length of threaded rigid conduit or connect 2 steel outlet boxes from The Home Depot
www.homedepot.com

And Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0079JXSTK/tvwb-20
and
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000KIK8DQ/tvwb-20

As usual, Amazon is WAY over priced, but folks seem to always willing to pay more for convenience.

Tom
 

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Tom O. - do you have a link to the mounting panel and cap files?
I don't see them anywhere. Not that I can print them anyway - without a 3d printer.
Others may be interested though.

I'll probably try something similar with Stainless Steel instead.
 
Wow I've said many times that the nipple doesn't get very hot at all so the plastic (of the damper, not the plate) is in no danger of melting, but I didn't think that the vent panel could be 3D printed as well. That looks really good!

I just leave my damper in place all the time, and tuck the Ethernet cable into the grill after it cools down. Still goin' strong after 3 years outdoors (although on a covered porch). The panel is just a piece of the sheet metal from the big box store cut to size and then a hole punched in it, although I have done it with a dremel before too.
 
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Bryan Mayland said:
Wow I've said many times that the nipple doesn't get very hot at all so the plastic is in no danger of melting, but I didn't think that the vent panel could be 3D printed as well. ........... SNIP................
Click to expand...

I have printed a few versions of an adapter plate in PLA for various grills; however, it's not quite right to claim that they won't melt. Under normal conditions I think most people will be OK, but I had a melt down when using a large radial fan to get my Akorn Kamado screaming hot to cook pizza. No problems during the cook when plenty of air was flowing. But following shut down the fan stopped of course and the lower part of the grill heat soaked and made the adapter plate hot enough to distort so that it was no longer functional. This may not be a problem for cooking at lower temperatures and the damage from ultra high temp cooking could be eliminated by removing the fan assembly and adapter plate when the pizza is done if the grill can be shut down by the damper door. And it may not be a problem at all with ceramic grills. The Akorn is all metal.

I use a metal adapter plate these days.
 
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