SteveCK
TVWBB Pro
The MD is plenty of power on a BGE or the like. Check your settings and make sure everything is functioning as it should
Brand New Damper Design - "The Micro Damper"
- Thread starter SteveCK
- Start date
The MD is plenty of power on a BGE or the like. Check your settings and make sure everything is functioning as it should
SteveCK
TVWBB Pro
The webstore at www.microdamper.com is now open. Sorry for the delays guys I've had all sorts of problems in the last few months that have hindered my ability to get back to this. Not sure if and when I'll get back to printing cases, but DIY MicroDamper kits will be available.
Good to see you back. Steve. Hope everything is OK.
Steve K just wanted to say Thanks. Got the kit from you a couple of weeks ago and finally finished assembling it. Also had my first cook with it.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/A6PeKIawQBAWYKtf2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/N4W0fgBZ9Ssc4AXN2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/A6PeKIawQBAWYKtf2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/N4W0fgBZ9Ssc4AXN2
Riku Naskali
TVWBB Member
Okay, I gotta ask..
How the heck do you manage to get the connector soldered & crammed in there in one piece and still function?
I soldered two and got them eventually inside two Microdampers, but after all the physical abuse there is a short or something else wrong with them..
The connector is right up against the servo and I really have to abuse it to fit in there.
Should i bend the connector's solder tabs outwards to get a little room for it?
How the heck do you manage to get the connector soldered & crammed in there in one piece and still function?
I soldered two and got them eventually inside two Microdampers, but after all the physical abuse there is a short or something else wrong with them..
The connector is right up against the servo and I really have to abuse it to fit in there.
Should i bend the connector's solder tabs outwards to get a little room for it?
Brian James
New member
I just completed my micro damper assembly and had to do exactly this to make things fit.
I removed the tab on the side facing the wire/mounting hole. I left the other intact as it allowed the servo to snap very securely into place. I was surprised at needing to do this as I was under the impression that the servos sold through microdamper.com came pre-trimmed.
Fan wires:
Don't cut the fan wires too short. You'll have less to have to coil out of the way but it's not worth the hassle. Do the soldering with the two halves next to each other and deal with the resulting length.
And my biggest tip:
Don't solder a TRRS plug onto cat5, crimp an RJ45 plug onto a 4-pole cable.
After being frustrated soldering the 3.5mm plug onto a piece of cat5, I realized I could more easily solve the problem from the other direction. I bought a coiled 3.5mm TRRS extension cable, cut off the appropriate end, and then crimped an RJ45 plug onto it. Only takes a minute with a multimeter to identify which wire corresponds to which position on the plug -- and then just a few seconds to insert the wires into the RJ45 and crimp. Far easier and quicker than soldering the other end, provided you already own a crimp tool.
Bonus - the coiled cable is far more compact (partly because it's only 4-wire, partly from being coiled like phone cords used to be) and easier to store.
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PSA: Make sure you don't mix up the servo power and position signal wires (red and orange) within the connectors! I fried a pi last night, and not in a good way.
Also, is the 3mm plug not ment to be taken in/out when the HM is powered up? Because doing so was causing the arduino to reboot... maybe that's what fried the pi?
Also, is the 3mm plug not ment to be taken in/out when the HM is powered up? Because doing so was causing the arduino to reboot... maybe that's what fried the pi?
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I rather like Fried Pies!
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
I would say there is a possibility depending on the order of the pins soldered to the plug. If you think about how they mate, the contacts pass through all the rings before the plug is fully seated. Is there an official order to solder them? There might be a combination where as you insert it, it connects the 12V to the 5V which is directly connected to the Pi. Or having 12V touch GND would also be bad but I think the power supply would just shutdown for that.
Joe Widmayer
New member
Are the MicroDampers still available? I bought one a while ago and thought I had wired it wrong. Turns out the fan was pushed in too far and physically stops from blowing.
I would like to buy 2. My son just got a heatermeter.
Thanks,
Joe Widmayer
I would like to buy 2. My son just got a heatermeter.
Thanks,
Joe Widmayer
Brian Best
New member
I've been stalking https://microdamper.bigcartel.com/ for months and months, and sent multiple emails with no response.
I hope I'm wrong, but I suspect the answer is no Joe
I hope I'm wrong, but I suspect the answer is no Joe
Joe Widmayer
New member
Brian,
I ordered the 3 D printer parts from 3 D Hubs. They should come in a few days. I was not sure if the printer setting. I will let you know how it comes out if you would like. I ordered the other parts from Amazon and Ebay.
I ordered the 3 D printer parts from 3 D Hubs. They should come in a few days. I was not sure if the printer setting. I will let you know how it comes out if you would like. I ordered the other parts from Amazon and Ebay.
Jason Abendroth
New member
how much did it cost? on that site it is 22.57 using PETG or 20.68 using PLA. and thats with both fan housings.
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