Another Free Genesis 1000 LX


 
Any reason?

pipe dope for me lubes the fittings better and I've not had a leak using it.

I've used yellow tape when I could not find my pipe dope and didn't want to make a trip to the HW store to get it.

I later ended up redoing it with pipe dope.
 
It is part of one of the casters.
Thank you. Went outside and, sure enough, that's exactly what it is. Unfortunately, the opening is deformed and it didn't pop back on. Don't know if there's a really strong adhesive that would hold it on. Perhaps I could wrap tape around the spindle. Or maybe I just need to spring for a new caster. Looks like it's all of $10 on Amazon.
 
Ok, here's my last suggestion for the night, since you said you are not going to do a full-on restoration

remove the hood, and pull the cookbox from the frame and touch up the cookbox with some rustoleum high heat ultra paint. A black cook box vs the faded grey makes a world of difference.

You'll probably need to buy in a new, stainless bolt, nut and washer where it mounts on the left side, but IMO its worth a little time to touch it up.

Only paint the outside.

good luck,

time for sleep
 
@Bruce shared these a while ago. 2 for about $8

Looks like they're a half inch smaller diameter than the original but I see that a lot of the folks on this site have had good luck with them. Just ordered a pair. Now I'm up to what, $37? Something like that. And I've not gotten started on major components. These projects are funny in that each expenditure is small but they add up. Death of a thousand cuts. But if the end result is a well functioning Weber, should be well worth it.
 
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Ok, here's my last suggestion for the night, since you said you are not going to do a full-on restoration

remove the hood, and pull the cookbox from the frame and touch up the cookbox with some rustoleum high heat ultra paint. A black cook box vs the faded grey makes a world of difference.

You'll probably need to buy in a new, stainless bolt, nut and washer where it mounts on the left side, but IMO its worth a little time to touch it up.

Only paint the outside.

good luck,

time for sleep
Thanks. Pretty easy to do that but given that I'm in the Pacific Northwest, would have to spray in the garage or wait for spring.
 
Thanks Steve. I have the two that go on the bottom and the cross member. I mentioned in my post that I took them off to get the grill up on my back deck and haven't taken a moment to put them back on. You're correct that I don't have the side table.

Figured the first thing is to get it cleaned up. Then, if everything still looks good, I'll buy the adapter to hook up a conventional tank (or a new hose with the correct adapter) and check for leaks. Then I'll turn it on and see if it burns well and evenly. Assuming I can get it working, then I'll replace the missing knob and the igniter. With regard to the side deck, I don't think those parts are available anymore but I can make one with real wood slats. I don't think I'm ambitious enough to replace all the slats to match since the others are in good shape. Yet another option is to keep my eyes open for another 1000 from which to get the missing side tray.
Welcome Roy
I have as many Durawood slat as you need, also I have an extra knob for the control panel. I do not have the Z bars that you would need for the side table though.
Feel free to PM me.
 
A couple quick things. Be VERY wary of gas lines and regulators from Amazon. (or any non oem supplier). Search the threads and you will see many people getting surprised when higher than normal pressure ones are being foisted off as for use on grills. Which than turns the grill into a flame thrower. Also burners made too short and such. Pipe dope on any threads under 1/2" 1/2" or up use either dope or tape. Be sure either is listed for "gas". Otherwise these grills are pretty bullet proof. Odds are your old regulator is fine and just needs a new Acme connection adapter (easy and cheap)
 
A couple quick things. Be VERY wary of gas lines and regulators from Amazon. (or any non oem supplier). Search the threads and you will see many people getting surprised when higher than normal pressure ones are being foisted off as for use on grills. Which than turns the grill into a flame thrower. Also burners made too short and such. Pipe dope on any threads under 1/2" 1/2" or up use either dope or tape. Be sure either is listed for "gas". Otherwise these grills are pretty bullet proof. Odds are your old regulator is fine and just needs a new Acme connection adapter (easy and cheap)
I've ordered the gas line but could return it. Is there a specific adapter that I would use given the current setup?
 

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That is a quick connect fitting. They quit using them on grills a long time ago because LP tanks don't use those fittings any longer. You may be able to get one refilled, but that might be tough.
 
I've ordered the gas line but could return it. Is there a specific adapter that I would use given the current setup?
You can just replace the quick connect fitting on your regulator with one of these. you're still going to have a 22yo+ rubber hose that carries gas. Your choice.Screenshot_20211218-183620_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
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I have used the Dozyant ones that Steve posted with good results. If your current hose is in good shape, then just a connector might be the best bet. But if you want a new hose and regulator, then just replace the whole thing.
 
Thanks guys.

Began the clean out today. This is most of the soot. My grandmother would have called it smutch. Somehow the Yiddish seems more descriptive.
 

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