A diamond in the rough

[Jake Lofton]

I recently was driving down the road when I came across a Weber Genesis 1000!! I have been looking for one for a few months now since I saw this post on the BIFL subreddit. As soon as I spotted it on the side of the road I knew what I would be tackling for my next quarantine project. I couldn't have thrown that puppy in my bed any quicker.

I have been scouring this website (please bare with me I am learning how to navigate) on walkthroughs for a complete restoration and I have run into some issues and concerns that I hope I could find solutions to.

#1 The interior of the lid is scumbling to bits. What are my options as the enamel coating is toast and will have to remove the remainder. The exterior is in great condition with one small chip on the back. Is the lid not useable now that the coating is completely gone on the inside?

#2 The screws holding the right and left side endcap are rusted out. I am planning on replacing these after I can get them out. I may have to Dremel a divot to hold the spinning side with a screwdriver. However I cannot find the replacement screws and nuts. These are the parts I need, but I cant find them in stock anywhere.
WEB97784
HDWE SHROUDS GEN/SPRT/PLAT

I saw on the gas grill parts source thread that I can use (https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=10505 , https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7403) to replace it? It doesn't look like a similar length. The final two pictures in the album show where I am having issues getting that screw out. I am headed to the hardware store to pickup a torch to heat her up.


Overall what are yalls thoughts about this one I snagged for nothing. The inside is pretty rough and there is some surface rust on the frame, but I am planning on sandblasting and painting anyway.

Heres my shopping list so far, excluding cleaning materials
- SS hardware
- grates
- flavorizer bars
- 3 new burners and possibly manifold
- starter switch and chamber assembly
- warming rack
- grease collection pan
- thermometer
- high temp paint
- replacement wood. walnut, burgundy? and recommendations

 

[Jim Owen]

I believe you have a 2000 there. Lots of people use cedar for replacement wood. It is naturally good against elements, and looks great with some spar varnish on it. I bet your manifold is fine. There is a thread around here on how to re-grease them. Only do one at a time. Simple green and 0000 steel wool will help your hood lots.

 

[LMichaels]

No Jim it's a 1 or 1000 cant tell which as I cannot make out casters or lack of

 

[Bruce]

That is a Genesis 1000. It has casters. Probably early to mid 90's.
That "crumbling" on the inside of the lid is NOT peeling paint or enamel. It is burned on carbon/smoke. That will come off revealing a beautiful shiny black ceramic coating.

Try prying a chisel or thin screw driver under the lid end cap nuts when you try to remove them. That pressure should get them to hold enough to get the nut off. I could send you ten screws if you really want them, but I replace them on all my rehabs with these:

Bolt Depot - Socket flat head, Stainless steel 18-8, 1/4"-20 x 5/8"

www.boltdepot.com

and

Bolt Depot - Flange nuts serrated, Stainless steel 18-8, 1/4"-20

www.boltdepot.com

They are stainless and give the grill a tough look.



It is unlikely that you would need to replace the manifold on your grill. I would make sure the other one is bad before simply replacing it.

 

[Bruce]

Check that sticker on the very right side of the control panel. It is the data sticker. If you can read the Serial Number, it will provide you with more details on the grill.

Also, before you simply go and buy all those parts new, reach out as there are a lot of options and we can help you save some money and make informed decisions. Especially on grates, flavorizer bars and burner tubes.

 

[Bruce]

Oh, this is what the inside of your lid should look like after you clean it up.

 

[Jake Lofton]

Check that sticker on the very right side of the control panel. It is the data sticker. If you can read the Serial Number, it will provide you with more details on the grill.

Also, before you simply go and buy all those parts new, reach out as there are a lot of options and we can help you save some money and make informed decisions. Especially on grates, flavorizer bars and burner tubes.

Unfortunately the sticker is completely faded. I even tried looking at it with different lights and angles to try and make something out, NOTHING!

 

[Jake Lofton]

Oh, this is what the inside of your lid should look like after you clean it up.

View attachment 20765

goodness they clean up nice

 

[Bruce]

Yes, you will amazed. Use a good cleaner like simple green and #0000 Steel wool on the lid. Outside is easy and will shine right up. The burnt on stuff inside will take a lot of elbow grease or better yet, start off by scraping the burnt on stuff off with a single edge razor scraper. Then hit it with the #0000 steel wool.

HOW TO: Clean The Outside Of A Weber Genesis Gas Grill Lid

WHAT: This is a How To on cleaning the outside of a Weber Genesis gas grill lid WHY: To remove built-up grease and grime, returning the porcelain enamel surface to its original shine. Note that this cleaning process does not remove white spot fading that sometimes develops in the porcelain...

tvwbb.com

HOW TO: Clean The Inside Of A Weber Genesis Gas Grill Lid

WHAT: This is a How To on cleaning the inside of a Weber Genesis gas grill lid WHY: This is not normally necessary for a typical cleaning on a Weber gas grill. It would be for someone looking to restore their personal grill or rehabbing a grill for resale. It really makes it stand out against...

tvwbb.com

 

[Timothy F. Lewis]

Try making a “rubbing” of the label, sometimes you can find very slight impressions.
I’ve not thought of the term “scumbling” since my art store selling days!
A simple scraping will do wonders, be happy you found the talented restorers here, you will end up with a great, long lasting piece of grilling equipment following information from guys like Bruce, Chris, Jon and, the other extremely talented restoration gurus here!

 

[Russ in CFL]

Yup I had to do this with an old Gheenoe and trailer I'm restoring recently. Couldn't read the serial numbers at all but took some paper and lightly rubbed a pencil lead over the label and was able to get the full label.

 

[Rick W]

Unfortunately the sticker is completely faded. I even tried looking at it with different lights and angles to try and make something out, NOTHING!

I was able to get the complete serial number off of a completely faded sticker by using a UV flashlight.

 

[Bruce]

Interesting Information guys.

 

[Jake Lofton]

I was able to get the complete serial number off of a completely faded sticker by using a UV flashlight.

Cool I just ordered me one! I cant remember where my old blacklight was at

 

[J Grotz]

Cool I just ordered me one! I cant remember where my old blacklight was at

It’s with your lava lamp and stash.

 

[Bruce]

Don't forget the disco ball.

 

[Timothy F. Lewis]

Hey, my lava lamp is right by the TV, the stash? Uhhhhh, I forget!




Probably with my John Wayne bottle opener and the two bottles of Mandarine Napoleon that I can’t find!

 

[LMichaels]

Don't forget the disco ball.

That stuff preceded the disco ball by about 10 years LOL. Not sure if anyone remembers but the lava lamp used to be made in Chicago

 

[Jake Lofton]

The UV light worked like a charm. Model number 10000?

 

[Bruce]

You need the serial number if you can get it. That has the most information contained in it regarding your grill. It should be two letters followed by 5 or 6 digits. I think it is EE 701246 according to that photo.
That corresponds to a WEBER 1100 LP BLK (USA) and it would be a 1999 model year.

That black light trick is really cool. I gotta get one now.