A diamond in the rough


 
Bruce said:
You need the serial number if you can get it. That has the most information contained in it regarding your grill. It should be two letters followed by 5 or 6 digits. I think it is EE 701246 according to that photo.
That corresponds to a WEBER 1100 LP BLK (USA) and it would be a 1999 model year.

That black light trick is really cool. I gotta get one now.
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Damn same!!!!!! What a great trick
 
I have the same one. I use it for tracking down fluid leaks on the cars (well I used to) now with only Toyota vehicles I don't have that issue LOL. All kidding aside, a couple years ago I had an antifreeze leak and a refrigerant leak on our old 2001 Highlander. I used the light to find the spot on the AC condenser where a rock hit it and broke it and a very tiny hairline crack in the radiator tank. They can be handy tools
 
Awesome. Thanks Larry. I never realized they could be used for so many things. I just thought they used them to see blood spatter at crime scenes. LOL Oh, and 1980's college parties as well.
 
Sorry that I didn't mention it sooner, I have been doing this for my restorations for awhile. Not sure why, but the UV light really brings out the ghost image of what numbers were originally there.
Rick W said:
I was able to get the complete serial number off of a completely faded sticker by using a UV flashlight.
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Sorry that I didn't mention it sooner, I have been doing this for my restorations for awhile. Not sure why, but the UV light really brings out the ghost image of what numbers were originally there.
 
Rick W said:
Sorry that I didn't mention it sooner, I have been doing this for my restorations for awhile. Not sure why, but the UV light really brings out the ghost image of what numbers were originally there.
Click to expand...
That is the case with a lot of stuff on this forum. When things are not a problem for us, we tend to not think of them until we find they are a problem for someone else.
I had a big problem removing the slide rail screws from old Genesis cook boxes. But since I had found a good solution, I didn't think another thing about it until someone else mentioned they were having a problem. Then I let the list in on my solution....hopefully it has benefited others.
This is one of the things that makes our forum so good.
 
First hiccup. The frames tubing is rusted on the inside and the bolt broke off, which is now stuck in the firebox. The outside of the tubing seems to still have strength.
 

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Bruce said:
You need the serial number if you can get it. That has the most information contained in it regarding your grill. It should be two letters followed by 5 or 6 digits. I think it is EE 701246 according to that photo.
That corresponds to a WEBER 1100 LP BLK (USA) and it would be a 1999 model year.

That black light trick is really cool. I gotta get one now.
Click to expand...
looks like EE 701420 to me
 
You have three realistic choices, as I see it, on the rusted out crossmember on the frame.
1. https://tvwbb.com/threads/how-to-weber-frame-cross-member-repair.77334/
2. Find a new frame
3. Clean it up as best you can, use some rust remediation chemicals such as Por15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and then drive on. It will probably last another ten years if you keep it out of the rain and weather.

I would try to soak it in penatrating oil for a couple days and then try punching it out with a punch and hammer. You will have to be careful when doing so as the cast aluminum that has gone through hundreds of heat cold cycles can become very brittle and could crack. If you do this, make sure you have good support directly under the other side of the cook box.
You can also drill it out using a spot bit to start the drill and then drill through with a small bit such as 1/8" and moving up in size until it comes out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CML2DYM/?tag=tvwb-20

Replace the cook box bolt with a SS bolt and nut. I think it is 2.5". You can use Neversieze on it as well to prevent further problems.
 
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