$6.74 for 8 oz Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize Lubricant


 
J

JoeyS

TVWBB Fan
Would this lubricant work to put around the bolts? I see many post about using anti-seize lubricant. I saw an 1 oz one for $3.50 so figured I should get the 8oz to last me a life time. Seems like a deal to those who constant to fixer uppers. Do let me know if I shouldn't use this for any reason. Thank you.


Advance Auto Parts has 8-Ounce Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize Lubricant on sale for $6.74 when you apply promo code OFFERS25 in your cart. Select free store pickup where available otherwise shipping is free on $35+ orders.

 
That is the stuff I have. I do quite a number of grills a year and have ceased using it a couple years ago. First, if you use a good stainless nut and bold, it should last quite a few years before it siezes, even without the anti-seize. Second, the stuff is mess as heck and a pia to deal with. I just don't see the need for a bolt that is not really intended to have to be removed any time in the near future.
But, if you want to use it, it should work fine for you. It is rated to 1600 degrees so you are good there.
 
Bruce said:
That is the stuff I have. I do quite a number of grills a year and have ceased using it a couple years ago. First, if you use a good stainless nut and bold, it should last quite a few years before it siezes, even without the anti-seize. Second, the stuff is mess as heck and a pia to deal with. I just don't see the need for a bolt that is not really intended to have to be removed any time in the near future.
But, if you want to use it, it should work fine for you. It is rated to 1600 degrees so you are good there.
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Ah I'll pass on it. Based on reading restore post from the past it seemed to be a must do. I plan to buy new SS bolts and never plan to remove it so hopefully that will do then.

Do have side question though since you restore a bit. The frame I have for Gen1000 is overall good but one area close to the firebox flaking. Do you remove all the paint down to bare before painting or sand it down a bit for grip and paint over it? As always, thanks for your help Bruce!
 
I use it regardless. Just when you think you may not need to remove something it will come up and bite you right in the a$$. I work with gloves so messy? I don't think so. Even stainless bolts will corrode in place. Not because of the bolts themselves but because of the aluminum. That metal will still react
 
Yah, if you don't get ride of all the rust, it will continue and eventually that area will completely fail. I have had to fully replace several of those cross members with new pieces. But, if it is just surface rust, then I take a wire brush on an angle grinder to it and get all the rust off. Then I sand the paint around the area so it feathers in nicely. Then clean it up and prime with High heat Rustoleum primer and then Rustoleum high heat ultra paint.
 
LMichaels said:
I use it regardless. Just when you think you may not need to remove something it will come up and bite you right in the a$$. I work with gloves so messy? I don't think so. Even stainless bolts will corrode in place. Not because of the bolts themselves but because of the aluminum. That metal will still react
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Good point.
Bruce said:
Yah, if you don't get ride of all the rust, it will continue and eventually that area will completely fail. I have had to fully replace several of those cross members with new pieces. But, if it is just surface rust, then I take a wire brush on an angle grinder to it and get all the rust off. Then I sand the paint around the area so it feathers in nicely. Then clean it up and prime with High heat Rustoleum primer and then Rustoleum high heat ultra paint.
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Thanks for the tip. Debating on getting the firebox and frame sandblasted or just do some minor grinding and spray it. I saw other users getting deals for $20-$60 thinking I'd be on the higher end but it seems here in NorCal, I got quotes for $100-120 ($200 for power coating as well). I may be able to get it for $80 so considering this one a bit.... Since this will be a lifer, trying to do it best I can.
 
I am a retired aircraft worker and used this and copper based anti seize for many years, you should still use a anti seize on SS bolts and screws as the nut plate you are not of the same metal and surly not SS desmetals corrosion is a big problem on out door equipment.
 
JoeyS said:
Good point.

Thanks for the tip. Debating on getting the firebox and frame sandblasted or just do some minor grinding and spray it. I saw other users getting deals for $20-$60 thinking I'd be on the higher end but it seems here in NorCal, I got quotes for $100-120 ($200 for power coating as well). I may be able to get it for $80 so considering this one a bit.... Since this will be a lifer, trying to do it best I can.
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Joey, if it is a going to be your forever grill, blasting it might be worth while, but I get mine done for $30 inside and out. You might just want to clean out the inside by scraping and then some grill cleaner and SS household steel wool. If the outside is still fairly good, just clean that up and shoot some high heat paint on it and it will look great. After a couple cooks, the inside will be all dirty again anyway. Buy yourself a couple steaks and a big old brisket with the savings.

On the frame, just grind out any rust and flaking and peeling paint, sand it and then repaint the whole frame. Again, blasting the frame is going to cost and to be honest, regular spray paint is no where near as durable as the stuff Weber uses.
 
Bruce said:
Joey, if it is a going to be your forever grill, blasting it might be worth while, but I get mine done for $30 inside and out. You might just want to clean out the inside by scraping and then some grill cleaner and SS household steel wool. If the outside is still fairly good, just clean that up and shoot some high heat paint on it and it will look great. After a couple cooks, the inside will be all dirty again anyway. Buy yourself a couple steaks and a big old brisket with the savings.

On the frame, just grind out any rust and flaking and peeling paint, sand it and then repaint the whole frame. Again, blasting the frame is going to cost and to be honest, regular spray paint is no where near as durable as the stuff Weber uses.
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Yeah I was hoping $50-60 but $100 seemed a bit steep. A bit jealous of $30 haha
 
Yah, gas went up to $2.74 today. It was $2.58 here yesterday. So, I think Wisconsin is trying to catch up to Cali. I just hope my blaster guy doesn't start jacking up prices too fast.
 
$2.799 at Costco this AM in Loves Park IL. All other stations showing $3.099 to $3.399 in Rockford metro.
 
I just heard on the news a few days ago that gas was down in wisconsin by a penny over the week before, then all of a sudden, it jumps 18 cents a couple days later. I suppose someone turned the wrong valve at a refinery and shut it down for a couple days or something.
 
Anti seize really shouldn't be needed in my opinion. How many times in the next several years are you going to take it apart? It's a mess to apply and you would be better off just removing the bolt once a year or so. I haven't done many grills,,, somewhat a newbe here. But have used anti seize throughout my career. Keep it on spark plug threads. Leave it off a food prep appliance.

Timmy B
 
Tim,
I can see your point, although I have never worried about using the copper based anti-seize that I have. I guess I feel a small dab of it might mean the difference between simple removal for the next rehabber - even if not me - or a disaster needing a cutoff tool or worse.
 
Why is it a mess to apply?! You're not supposed to slather it all over. Simply a VERY fine coating. It's only a mess if you make it a mess. And it's whole lot easier to apply a little dab of that than trying to get stuck bolts out
 
LMichaels said:
Why is it a mess to apply?! You're not supposed to slather it all over. Simply a VERY fine coating. It's only a mess if you make it a mess. And it's whole lot easier to apply a little dab of that than trying to get stuck bolts out
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This.... it's like RTV sealant, you really only need a tiny bit. If you see after torquing stuff down, you've probably used too much.

Me, with stainless on on stainless, I'll use it every time, simply stainless on stainless galls, and with high torque applications, it frequently becomes a single use device.
 
I’ve been using it on hinge pins, manifold bolts, the firebox bolt and the screws holding the drip pan rails. Anyplace where 2 different metals interface.
Hopefully it will make someone’s life easier if they need to disassemble in the future.
 
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