$6.74 for 8 oz Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize Lubricant


 
Stainless is good as it will not corrode due to moisture, but stainless is softer than other hardware, this is why it is not used in high torque situations. So screws will strip out easier. Antiseize helps for this to not happen just one drop on the threads and it will self spread,besides better safe than sorry right?
 
Stainless is anything but soft. Ask all the drill bits I have ruined (dulled/broken) on it. As for stainless as hardware (nuts, bolts, screws) it's big disadvantage is it is so hard it is brittle and very easy to break. But soft? No way
 
Stainless is anything but soft. Ask all the drill bits I have ruined (dulled/broken) on it. As for stainless as hardware (nuts, bolts, screws) it's big disadvantage is it is so hard it is brittle and very easy to break. But soft? No way
Untrue , take the same size screw say a 8-32×10 and install them both in a aircraft access panel now fly the plane for the next 300 hours and remove the panel the stainless screws Philips head will widen and sripout faster than the machine (MS) screw. This has been tested by aircraft manufactures.
Because of the different materials between the screw and the attaching hardware as in the nut, mutilate, or rivnut. Stainless corodes at a different rate that machine hardware. MS stock is, cadmium, or allowing coated yes, but so are the nuts,nut plates,and rivnuts.
Sorry but like similar metals resist corrosion better than mixed, a added coating AE anti size will give you that added layer of protection by forming a layer of petroleum based liquid that fills the virus not allowing water,salt,and other toxic materials from entering the threaded areas. Such is stated in SAE standards manual.
 
I am an accountant, so for me to weigh in is probably really stupid :unsure: . But, it does seem to me that the negative issue with stainless is its brittleness rather than it being soft. I do know from working on sanding stainless flat panels that they are VERY hard to bring down even a little, whereas regular steel will sand much easier. On the other hand, I once worked on a Crown Verity all stainless grill. Even the axle was stainless. But, the axle broke right in half. I really doubt regular steel would do that unless it rusted completely through.

Again, I am way out of my field, but it seems like the aircraft example you gave could potentially also support that the stainless screws are more brittle and therefore strip out.

I am a big supporter of using anti-seize for the reasons just as you described.
 
Yeah I am kinda done with this whole thing. My very good friend is a retired tool and die maker so I fully understand just how "hard" stainless is compared to regular steel. So I am just going to leave it right here and not say more. Because when it comes to knowing metals I trust him
 
Ridgid strength is different than load strength. Do a bend test like you do for a welding certification use similar thicknesses of metal and then apply pressure in the center and watch. I miss spoke when I said soft it is as Jon said brittle that is why the corners of the philps heads chip out. But under load SS will snap where basic steel or 4130 will give and bend. If you want Ridgid strength use composite material as in graphite composite which is amazingly stiff or ridgid.
As I said before the biggest problem with hardware is that the faster and the attachment or holding material are different materials. So using Stainless which is anti corrosive but threading into a steel nut plate causes dissimilar corrosion. This is the beauty of the anti seize it coats and fills the threads giving you a protective layer between the two different metals, which keeps out water and air. And in most normal heat areas will stay moist for easy removal.
Anti seize can be of several materials, copper,silver, anti seize which most people are familiar with. But use can also use beleive it or not Milk Of Magneisa, just make sure it is the unflavored brand so you are putting sugar into the high heat area.
We used this on ignitor plugs on General Electric jet engines like J79 used on the F4's and other GE engines. These plugs are fed 28000 volts DC to ignite the engine so the threads do get abit warm. And these areas of the engine can reach 1200 degrees C also from the burning fuel and air passing by.
But for our use the only area for continuous heat cycles would be the fire box, the rest would be a moisture concern so SS hardware with proper anti seize compound will work fine. I think for personal preferences I like the bolt heads of 6 or 12 point head style, and torx or Allen drive screws, which hold the drive bit into the faster much better.
At the end of the day what you use is up to the owner and your price range .
I bought a 2014 performer and was replacing the table to a metal one. And one screw was frozen into the rivnut, steel screw and aluminum rivnut. I used SS Allen drive screws when I installed the table with anti seize. Now should be able to remove anytime.
After 45 years in my bussiness this is just natural to me and abit foreign to others. Sorry for the long post and I want to say I had no intention of berating anyone, just trying to expand on avpoint and I am no engineer either I could also be wrong I only know what I have been taught and read in the maintenence manuals. So if offended anyone I apologize.
 

 

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