3D Printed Barrel Servo/Fan


 
How did you all connected the groundwire from the servo and the blower into the keystone jack?

Can you put 2 wires at the same pin in the keystone jack in the servo casing and use a standard UTP cable, or do you have to make your own UTP cable by combining wires in the same pin in the connector (PCB end).

I have a 4.1 PCB

Frank
 
You can just use a standard UTP cable with the pinout mapped from the 4.1 pcb. The ground for the servo and fan are connected to the same pin.
 
Tom Kole said:
You can just use a standard UTP cable with the pinout mapped from the 4.1 pcb. The ground for the servo and fan are connected to the same pin.
Click to expand...

What I ment was the cable from the servo and the blower in the casing.

You have 5 wires (3 from servo and 2 from the blower) and you have to reduce it to 4 but where.
In the keystone jack in the casing?
I'am building the barrel servo version 2.
 
Gotcha, sorry. Just run the fan and servo ground off of the ground pin from the jack. The pin designations are nicely depicted here.
 
So, I'm now using a HM 4.0 system, but have recently purchased a few 4.2.4 boards for upgrade. I really like this servo damper design, but have recently been thinking of ideas to attach it to my WSM.

Since I already have an adapter for a DigiQ fan (raptor), I thought I would design a coupling to marry the 1" square tubing to the 34.5mm outside diameter of the adapter.

Here's my attempt. I'm printing now, so I'll let you know of the results. Maybe the design would benefit from a few threaded inserts for attachment?

edit


OK, So I'm not sure how to post pics. Anyone?
 
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WBegg said:
So, I'm now using a HM 4.0 system, but have recently purchased a few 4.2.4 boards for upgrade. I really like this servo damper design, but have recently been thinking of ideas to attach it to my WSM.

Since I already have an adapter for a DigiQ fan (raptor), I thought I would design a coupling to marry the 1" square tubing to the 34.5mm outside diameter of the adapter.

Here's my attempt. I'm printing now, so I'll let you know of the results. Maybe the design would benefit from a few threaded inserts for attachment?

edit


OK, So I'm not sure how to post pics. Anyone?
Click to expand...

Which version are you printing? Rotary, in-line, or barrel? The rotary or in-line versions can be easily modified to accept a 34.5 mm dia pipe. The barrel would be a bit more difficult because it is much smaller so you would just have to increase the amount of material surrounding the outlet. Threaded inserts can be done with a 3d printer and there are very cool tools built into autodesk inventor (not inventor fusion) to do this. I've printed some threaded adapters for other projects and they come out pretty good, but in practice it's just easier to cut the threads into a smooth cylinder or tapered cone (if you are using pipe thread) using a tap or the actual threaded pipe.
 
I'm using the Barrel Servo. Servo isn't active yet, as I am waiting on my HM 4.2.4 board, but just got the adapter printed, and it's a nice tight fit.

Using it now to smoke some ribs. This setup works TONS better than the $70 "pit viper" fan I bought from Digiq. I started some ribs, and you can see when I changed fans out (about when I put the Ribs on). Until I figure out how to post pics, here's a link to my cook!

http://beggbq.servebeer.com/
 
Think I got the pic thing figured out now. Here's the 3d rendering,

3pmFNkW.jpg


And the finished product at work on an 8 lb. Pork Butt.

48dn7uu.jpg


I adjusted the fit so it's snug enough that I have to twist it on. No air leakage at all.
 
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Just want to thank Tom for coming up with this great idea! The unit works like a charm, and can't wait to get my HM 4.2.4 put together (in Australia, so shipping takes a while) to get the Servo up and running. It's already installed and wired in.

Oh, and thanks Dave.
 
Maybe I'm getting ahead of myself, as I do not have the servo working yet (waiting on my HM 4.2.4 boards) but thought I'd post my last 21 hours of smoking an 8 lb. pork butt on my unmodified, stock, WSM 18.5" and yes, I said 21 hours.

I ran fan only, with the above mentioned unit I recently printed. I cannot say enough about how tight and awesome everything fits with Tom's design. Great job, Tom, and thanks for posting a most wonderful idea and solution to many peoples long search for ideas and tools of how to implement many of the ideas generated here on this forum.

My 8# Pork Butt just off the WSM ....


Fuel: Truflame Hardwood Charcoal (lump, made in Indonesia, only sold in Australia), 4 KG bag + a little more
Ambient Temp: COLD! 32*F when started (it's Winter in Australia).

B: 2
P: 3
I: 0.005
D: 5

4:30 - Started charcoal
5:30 - Put shoulder on grill, went to work
10:47 - Oscillations that I can't explain
17:04 - Home for work and stoked coals
19:30 - Added fuel for security
21:07 - Hungry, upped temp to 230*
22:42 - Messed with C/F feature in setup (don't know why)
22:47 - Got curious so checked temp with Thermapen. Spot on.
24:00 - Thermapen again
1:45 - Upped temp to 250. Really Hungry!!
2:30 - OFF THE GRILL, WRAPPED, AND RESTING!!

What an awesome tool! I can put a Butt or Brisket on in the morning and go to work without worrying!

 
Definitely not that good at cutting sheet metal by hand, but a little bit of banging with a hammer on a vice, a file, and some sand paper goes a long way.
 
Hi all, My HeaterMeter 4.2.4 build is complete and I have sent away for local 3D printing of Tom's Version 2 Barrel Damper. I'm a little confused which socket to use. This thread refers to it as an RJ11 but the photo from WBegg looks like an RJ45 (8P8C Ethernet socket as on the HeaterMeter end). The spec for RJ11 is a 6P2C (6 position 2 conductor) plug/socket. RJ25 is 6P6C in the same form factor. We're sadly short on Home Depot's out here so I want to confirm what to buy. Thanks for any advice!
 
Use an RJ45 jack on the barrel damper. This way you can connect it to the HM via a short piece of ethernet cable.
 
Thanks Steve. Did you have to file out the housing to take the RJ45 socket? RJ45 - RJ45 would provide the most robust cable so this is my first choice!
 
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