2003 Genesis Silver B Rehab and Conversion


 
A

AdamReed

New member
Hello,

I'm a first-timer restoring a Silver B that someone put to the curb. I've fixed the rust, now I just need to clean up and re-paint the sides of the lid and clean up the paint on the cart a bit. I'm posting to find out if anyone has an itemized list of all the hardware so that I would be able to upgrade everything with stainless. I also found a factory ng conversion kit so I'll be able to put my e310 up for sale and use the older model full time. If anyone could help me with a list of hardware, I would appreciate it. Thank you!

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pbp_uR5PkOPgkDx5ylNHedBoqvtxCqWR?usp=sharing
 
Hey Adam,

Welcome to the board! Not sure if you've read this already but here is an awesome how to rehab guide...

https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?69...together-a-quot-How-To-quot-Restoration-Guide

As far as stainless grates and bars the best would be the ones from RCplanebuyer, you can find him on Ebay...he is based in California. If you want his email just ask as a lot of us has his email address. As far as the stainless hardware goes I think the easiest thing to do is bring all of the old hardware and match them at your local hardware shop. I got all of my stainless hardware at Ace Hardware. Please post your pics of your before and after rehabbed grill when you get a chance.
 
When I restored my Gold B I downloaded the manual and made a list of all the hardware. I took it to Fastenal and placed an order. I probably should have kept the list.:confused:
 
I would only worry about replacing the manifold bolts and the firebox bold on the other side with stainless. I don't think replacing all the bolts in the frame is worth while unless they are already trashed. If they haven't rusted out in the last 10-15 years, there is no reason to assume they won't last another dozen years plus.
 
Bruce said:
I would only worry about replacing the manifold bolts and the firebox bold on the other side with stainless. I don't think replacing all the bolts in the frame is worth while unless they are already trashed. If they haven't rusted out in the last 10-15 years, there is no reason to assume they won't last another dozen years plus.
Click to expand...


Bruce,

I think you're right. I haven't yet cleaned the inside of the lid down to the porcelain, and I was planning on removing the sides before painting them. But now I think i'll just clean it as best as I can with the razor blade, steel wool, and degreaser, and then tape off the porcelain parts with some tape and drape....and then paint the ends without removing them. None of the hardware is exposed, so removing and upgrading doesn't seem worth the effort.

I did replace the bolt, nut and washer on the left side of the cook box with stainless when I repaired the cart rust that the original had caused. But, as you said, the rest of the cart hardware looks good, just like typical clean galvanized stuff. If I keep it clean and dry, it should be fine.

I've got the ng manifold and hose now, so I'll make the trip to Fastenal when I break it down again to do the final painting, and replace the manifold bolts, and probably the phillips screws from the control panel.

Pat and Sam, thanks for the tips. I downloaded the schematic from the Weber site and the Google told me that Fastenal is five miles away. I'll be taking my baggies and hardware there whenever I have enough time to get all of this done. I'm kind of excited to sell my e310. I think I'll be ahead a hundred bucks or so in the end.

Here's the folder with the pictures I have so far: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pbp_uR5PkOPgkDx5ylNHedBoqvtxCqWR?usp=sharing

If there's a way to imbed the pictures in the text, I've not yet figured it out.

I replaced the igniter and burner, and was planning on upgrading grates and FB's to rcplanebuyer's stuff......but when I got done scraping and scrubbing the ones that were in it at the curb, I think they're brand new. I'd feel guilty replacing stuff that looks new. So that will wait a few years, I guess.

Thanks guys!
 
AdamReed said:
Bruce,

I think you're right. I haven't yet cleaned the inside of the lid down to the porcelain, and I was planning on removing the sides before painting them. But now I think i'll just clean it as best as I can with the razor blade, steel wool, and degreaser, and then tape off the porcelain parts with some tape and drape....and then paint the ends without removing them. None of the hardware is exposed, so removing and upgrading doesn't seem worth the effort.

I did replace the bolt, nut and washer on the left side of the cook box with stainless when I repaired the cart rust that the original had caused. But, as you said, the rest of the cart hardware looks good, just like typical clean galvanized stuff. If I keep it clean and dry, it should be fine.

I've got the ng manifold and hose now, so I'll make the trip to Fastenal when I break it down again to do the final painting, and replace the manifold bolts, and probably the phillips screws from the control panel.

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

Unless you are flipping the grill, I wouldn't bother cleaning the inside of the lid other than a quick clean job. It is going to look just like it does now after a few cooks anyways. I would just give a quick once over and get the main stuff. On the outside of the lid, just use some Simple Green cleaner and #0000 steel wool and it will shine like it did when new unless it has oxidized.

I always take off the end caps when cleaning and painting. It just makes it easier imo.
 
I have to agree with Bruce. If you are planning to use the grill for yourself just clean of the really loose stuff. Don’t worry about scraping it to bare metal. It will look like this again sooner or later. Go as far as you feel comfortable with. This is not a prom queen. It is a utility that is supposed to provide some great food.
But your progress looks really good so far.
 
I've got the lid off and I'm getting ready to clean it well enough to get to the hardware to remove the sides for painting. Can I get some guidance as to how the sides attach and the process for removing them? Are those little nuts designed for removal with a socket/wrench? Are they single-use and designed to be pried off? These might be dumb questions. There's a good amount of gunk on them right now. I might be obvious after some scrubbing and elbow grease.
 
Yes, those nuts come off with a 7/16" socket. Sometimes they can be a real pain with all the gunk on them. Spray them with a penetrating oil an hour or two before taking them off. Use Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or a similar penetrating oil. If yours are the kind with bolts that go through the end caps, try to keep pressure on the bolt head while trying to remove the nuts. The ones with the studs built in to the end caps come off much easier because they don't tend to spin like the bolt through ones. If you happen to ruin a nut or two (not likely) when taking them off, you can find replacements at most hardware or home builder stores.
 
For sure like Bruce said you pb blaster or whatever but I hope you have better luck than I did on the 1000 there were 4 that would not budge had to use a cutoff wheel to nick those nuts mine had a slot in them so i was able to cut around them without damaging the bolts cause I wanted to re-use the bolts got new stainless nuts. Whatever you do make sure you use anti-seize on any bolts that you put back in the firebox including of course the lid sides. You will never have a problem again getting them out, I did not replace my frame bolts when i painted the frame I just painted over them.
 
Brian, I have some reservations about the use of antiseize inside the grill (like on the end-caps). I was just looking at the material safety data sheet for the Permatex brand one, and personally, I would only use it on threads that are outside of the grill.

There are at least 2 compounds that are listed as known to be carcinogens or at least carcinogenic to humans:

ACGIH (American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists)
A2 - Suspected Human Carcinogen
IARC (International Agency for Research on Cancer)
Group 1 - Carcinogenic to Humans
Not classifiable as a human carcinogen
NTP (National Toxicology Program)
Known - Known Carcinogen
OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration of the US Department of Labor)
X - Present
 
You're not putting it on your food and after an initial "burn off" any offending VOC is gone. Besides it's locked into the threads of the screws not like you're spreading it on the grates
 
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