First Weber Gas Grill - 1993 Genesis Red 1100


 
M

MarkMac

TVWBB Member
Hi. I've been reading various threads on Weber rehab's and always wanted to try a Weber gas grill. I figured I'd keep an eye on CL until I found one in fair condition and pick it up. So this week I saw a listing for a red 1993 Genesis 1000. The sticker and serial number come up as an 1100.

After reading various rehab threads I figured I'd have a solid grill with some cleanup and paint work. When I went to pickup the grill, I was happy with the condition as it was a senior couple who've not used it in years, and kept it in a garage. They even made sure I left with the original manual, cookbook, and other paperwork. This was after they walked me through how to use the igniter. Really nice couple, just didn't have anymore use for it.

After I got home, I pulled out the grates and FB. The grates are perfectly fine, and the FB are a little rusted but still usable for sure. After reading about all the problems people have with the bolts in the FireBox, I checked those and the two on the right look almost new, and the one on the left looks like it should work. Frame is solid with no rust and all the wood looks original grey.

At this point I'm not sure how much I even do, as the grill fires up easily and the burners look great with nice blue flames. At a minimum, just some FB's. For $50 and including two full tanks, it was a great deal.

Couple questions that I'm pondering now that I have it and realizing the condition of this unit;

- The firebox externally shows no rust, or even any discoloration. I'm not sure its worth sanding and re-painting. Probably just a clean of the inside.
- For the lid, the sides are showing some discoloration and I am thinking I'll pull them off, give them a light sanding, and paint. Although if I don't paint the Firebox it will look a little odd.
- I noticed the center burner fires to the sides. However in many pictures online for these units, the center burner fires straight up. Am I missing something or is this different?

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Mark,
For $50 you've done well, real well as that grill looks to be well taken care of.

If it were me I'd replace the Flavorizer Bars with some nice RCplanebuyer units and just clean up the inside. The Burner Tubes don't look too bad to me, just wire brush 'em clean.
I would not pull the Cookbox off the frame unless you were feeling like you had to. The screws on the right that hold the burner tubes are stainless from Weber but the one on the left that holds the box to the frame is not.

If you do pull the sides off the lid don't sand them too much, they are textured and you do not want them to be too smooth, just scrape off the loose paint and hit 'em with some high heat paint.

Don't concern yourself with the center burner, most older Weber's had the holes to the side like yours.
You can see the #7506 replacement center tube on my 3200 faces straight up:

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Enjoy your new Weber!

Jeff
 
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Jeff MA said:
Mark,
For $50 you've done well, real well as that grill looks to be well taken care of.

If it were me I'd replace the Flavorizer Bars with some nice RCplanebuyer units and just clean up the inside. The Burner Tubes don't look too bad to me, just wire brush 'em clean.

If you do pull the sides off the lid don't sand them too much, they are textured and you do not want them to be too smooth, just scrape off the loose paint and hit 'em with some high heat paint.

Enjoy your new Weber!

Jeff
Click to expand...

Nice find. Jeff is right, I still think you should paint the lid sides and the outside of the firebox. I have done a couple of these and it makes such a difference. Be sure and use the flat high heat paint. You can also take some 0000 steel wool and Simple Green and use it to clean up the porcelain top. You are going to enjoy it, here's mine:

 
Thanks for the advise. Are the inside of the side covers painted originally? There seems to be paint falling off the inside of the sides. I'm familiar with the smoke layer in my WSM, but this looks like paint. I'm wondering if it was originally painted or someone painted it before.

I want to believe I read somewhere that you can buy all the various bolts, screws etc as a kit from Weber? If so, is it by phone only as I didn't see anything on the site when punching in my serial number.

Ordered a new thermometer today and will likely take your advice Jeff on the RCplanebuyer FB.

I'm thinking I will remove the FB from the frame to paint as I'd like to use the high heat flat for the FB but a Gloss Enamel for the frame. Otherwise I need to tape everything off.

Thanks again for the input.
 
If you want to have a very nice experience order the FB set from RCPlanebuyer and the cooking grates. You will have a setup that is lifetime and will perform extremely well. Can't say enough good things about them. I would remove the bolt on the left that holds the fire box in and the 2 on the far right that hold the manifold tot he side of the grill for burner removal. Do not bother to remove the 2 bolts you see inside the fire box that holds down the burners. They are only locating bolts. Best here to leave sleeping dogs lie. Check the frame right where the fire box and upper frame rail meet on the left. Here is where most corrosion starts. It would be good to remove the fire box and clean repaint that part of the frame. Replace that left hand bolt with a stainless steel carriage bolt of the proper length. Do yourself a HUGE favor and on any bolt you remove going though or into the fire box put a little "Never Seize" on it. I use the plain silver type. Trust me here you'll be soooooooooo glad you did. You have a fine grill there. Couple little things like I mentioned and it will be better than new
 
LMichaels said:
If you want to have a very nice experience order the FB set from RCPlanebuyer and the cooking grates. You will have a setup that is lifetime and will perform extremely well. Can't say enough good things about them.
Click to expand...

I'm planning to grab the FB from him. For the grates, do you mean the 3/8 SS Rods? They're $120 + $20 shipping. I'm certain they would outlive the grill, and me. However I guess with the condition of this unit, those FB and the SS Grill would make it virtually new.
 
LMichaels said:
I would remove the bolt on the left that holds the fire box in and the 2 on the far right that hold the manifold tot he side of the grill for burner removal. ................... Do yourself a HUGE favor and on any bolt you remove going though or into the fire box put a little "Never Seize" on it. I use the plain silver type. Trust me here you'll be soooooooooo glad you did.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advise. I'll grab some never sieze.
 
Some good advice above, a little replacement of parts and a little paint and cleanup it will be like new and give you many years of great cooks.
 
MarkMac said:
I'm planning to grab the FB from him. For the grates, do you mean the 3/8 SS Rods? They're $120 + $20 shipping. I'm certain they would outlive the grill, and me. However I guess with the condition of this unit, those FB and the SS Grill would make it virtually new.
Click to expand...

Yes, if you want to go top end and long term value, the 3/8th rods are definitely the way to go. It's $140 up front, but this will be the last time you will need to spend money on grates. Stamped grates or even cast iron ones will need to be replaced periodically.
 
Ok. Everything so far has come apart with ease. All firebox bolts just unscrewed without hesitation. Everything is dismantled with the exception of the wheels. With everything coming apart easy, I want to be sure the wheels just pop off before I pry the caps off with a screw driver. Is there any trick or just pop them?
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Are you asking about the large wheels or the little casters. The casters come right out. The wheels..........................not so much. Those little caps are a PIA. I don't have a trick that will not destroy the locking caps and or the wheels. Answer to the grate question. In the course of the lifetime of the grill (which can be very long) my own is from late 1992 and I know it is older because I bought it as a discontinued floor model back than. It is a Genesis II and they were coming out with the Genesis X000 models when I picked mine up. I've done one minor resto on it, (though it's getting a little bit "wobbly" now) I think I need to do some frame work on it. But it still gets rippin' hot and still cools like a champ though it's not my daily driver anymore. Because I sold my 2 BroilMaster's and I have not had time to get after my Summit the gigantor Wolf is my daily driver at the moment. Though today I may be going to get one of these........... http://www.dynastystoves.com/products-details.php?recordID=183 which I am hoping will be in decent shape. I figure what with all 304SS production and cast brass burners it should be. So it (if I get it) may become my daily simply because turning on the Wolf spins my gas meter giddy. Anyway I digress. Your "new" Genesis will live a long life. If it's going to be a daily driver the investment in top quality internals will be well worth it, The only thing you'll spend on it than is time cleaning it occasionally.
 
Mark,
I tried a couple different ways to get the caps off as I not only took off the wheel caps. but the propane tank gauge rollers as well to paint my 3200.

Either way I did it it left some impressions on the black and white caps. If you go to your local hardware store, (as neither Lowes nor Home Depot stocked these), they probably have a bin full of these.


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If not you can purchase Weber #3622 hubcaps.

Jeff
 
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I see in you picture that you have some chips in the porcelain where the end caps cover, this is a common theme as my last two restores both had the same issue.
After you are done cleaning the lid with #0000 steel wool and Simple Green clean the chipped area with mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol.
Use high heat automotive brake caliper paint and get the closest match you can. I used VHT brand SP731 for my red Weber 700.

I spray a small amount of the paint into a cup and then used a small foam brush to apply to the affected areas. When the end caps are on you will not see your repair but you will not be surprised by rust mark in several years when the porcelain rubbed through to the metal.

Jeff
 
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Jeff, I was going to ask about the porcelain corners so that's for the suggestion. I was thinking the same but didn't think of getting red auto paint as it would be hidden, but worth using red vs black to touch it up.

After reading your suggestion, I started thinking if I should just paint the frame all Red. Just not sure it would look great if I didn't get the red to match the cover exactly.
 
Got a lot done today. The lid cleaned up with ease. Just a little simply green and steel wool made it shine with a quick rub. Sanded down the frame and other parts, and cleaned out the fire box with oven cleaner and then hit it with putty knife and some 100 sand paper.

I've painted the fire box and sides. However I have a question on the frame. I wanted to do a gloss like the original paint. Does it need to be the high heat, or would a gloss enamel work fine? I picked up a couple cans of high heat semi-gloss but. Figured I'd ask if anyone had issues with regular black rust oleum gloss?

This week I'll hopefully finish up the painting and then move to the wood. It's all sanded, just need to stain.
 
Mark, I used a high heat gloss on my frame and lid sides, and the flat on the fire box. as to whether the high heat was necessary for the frame, not sure, but the fire box gets pretty hot and sits in the frame so I didn't want to take any chances.
 
I think I created more work than needed on the frame. It was in great condition with only a few minor spots where I could see potential for rust in the future. Given I was sanding the sides of the firebox, I figured I'd sand the frame, and unfortunately just went ahead with the 100 grit paper.

After the first coat of the High Heat semi-gloss, all the sanding scratches jump right out. Wish I had left well enough alone, as I think I need to sand with a finer paper now. I may try hitting it with the automotive engine primer and then back to the gloss if that works. Just hope I don't need to sand with various paper to get it back to smooth.

Anyone else have experience with trying to cover up sanding scratches with just rust-o-leum primer?

Good news on sanding is that the original wood is in great condition and looks great after sanding the old grey paint off.
 
Last weekend I finished up the restore of my first Weber Gas grill. The grill was in really great shape, so my efforts were fairly minimal compared to what I've read by some here. All in all, it took about two days of work, but lots of time waiting for paint and stain to dry. The largest effort was probably the frame painting and wood sanding/staining. The frame was in such great shape, I wish I had left well enough alone for all the sanding and painting.

The only real item that I had to replace was the FB, but figured I may as well order the grates with them from Rcplanbuyer.

Here are some before and after pictures. I'll also list off a few lessons I learned from the effort.

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Just a little Simply Green and a steelwool pad (0000) wiped everything off. Under the hood was like a mirror by just wiping it.
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