Steel Demon - Cut Through Frame


 
John-NY

John-NY

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Has anyone ever used a blade in a circular saw like this to cut through a Silver B (etc.) frame?

Is it preferred to an angle grinder cutoff wheel? Any gotchas to be aware of?

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The gotcha I see is that a circular saw is pretty aggressive for things like square stock (wood or steel) in that size. I’d be more inclined to use a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) simply because unless you are using a miter/chop saw, and cutting straight sections of tubing it might be a little more difficult to control. If you are breaking down old frames? I’d use a sawzall and still be very careful!
 
Timothy F. Lewis said:
The gotcha I see is that a circular saw is pretty aggressive for things like square stock (wood or steel) in that size. I’d be more inclined to use a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) simply because unless you are using a miter/chop saw, and cutting straight sections of tubing it might be a little more difficult to control. If you are breaking down old frames? I’d use a sawzall and still be very careful!
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Thanks, yes exactly, breaking down old frames to use the tubing on other frames.
 
It just seems like serious overkill, circular saws are best for cutting sheet stock (think plywood, flat material). Cutting tubing, sawzall of an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel is a bit more readily controlled.
Be SAFE!
 
I've cut alot of metal with a circular saw. Wear the proper PPE especially eyes and ears.
 
Here’s an example of the cut I would be making, in my mind it would just be a straight simple 3 second cut. But I’m wrong about a lot of things lol

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WE used to get our windows delivered from overseas on big metal carts with wheels.
1/8 " thick steel tube stock. Being a carpenter I would use a circular saw and a metal blade to brake down the carts for trash.
Laborers used the saw zall, iron workers used a grinder with a cut off wheel.
It's whatever your comfortable with.
The circ saw makes a very loud screeching noise so wear good ear protection.
 
John-NY said:
Here’s an example of the cut I would be making, in my mind it would just be a straight simple 3 second cut. But I’m wrong about a lot of things lol

View attachment 97930
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I'd be concerned about the saw blade binding and kick-back in that situation. Be prepared for sparks and hot shavings.

Personally, for the cut you are illustrating, I would use a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) or an angle grinder with cut-off wheel.
 
I would also be using an angle grinder and cutoff wheel. But I have used a blade like that on my Miter saw to ensure an accurate and clean and square cut to cut some Stainless tubing. I didn't use a top brand blade and it worked well, but I had the impression that I would not be getting a whole lot of cuts out of it. Since then, I have purchased a cut off wheel for the miter saw and that works good and I have cut quite a few pieces of SS tubing with it. I don't know if they make those kind of blades for a hand skil saw.
 
John-NY said:
Thanks, I hadn’t considered a reciprocating saw. I’ll try that first and see how it goes.
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Just one suggestion, you'll probably want to anchor or clamp that cart/frame in place if using a recip saw, otherwise it'll move all over the place... that's one advantage of an angle grinder, the wheel is only moving in one direction (smoother cutting action and easier to control). Good luck!
 
Scott-MI said:
Just one suggestion, you'll probably want to anchor or clamp that cart/frame in place if using a recip saw, otherwise it'll move all over the place... that's one advantage of an angle grinder, the wheel is only moving in one direction (smoother cutting action and easier to control). Good luck!
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Thanks, I’ll see about getting it into my Jawhorse
 
I can’t be the only one using a PortaBand on these frame sections, am I? A clean, straight, and controllable cut every time without the vibration or sparks. My “go-to” is a Milwaukee M12 with an 1-5/8” x 1-5/8” capacity but I’ve got an old deep cut, corded model as well. Between the two of them, I’ve made short work of countless replacement cross members of all lengths and sizes over the years this way. The only negative is that the PortaBand doesn’t always have the clearance when cutting out an old frame section so I have to resort to the angle grinder to finish the grind after I’ve cut it out as close to possible with the band saw first.
IMG_1002.jpeg
 
Those actually ( as TomRc said ) give a more controlled cut compared to a Sawzall on metal.
A Sawzall is what we call a demolition saw, not something you use for finer cuts.
 
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TomRc said:
I can’t be the only one using a PortaBand on these frame sections, am I? A clean, straight, and controllable cut every time without the vibration or sparks. My “go-to” is a Milwaukee M12 with an 1-5/8” x 1-5/8” capacity but I’ve got an old deep cut, corded model as well. Between the two of them, I’ve made short work of countless replacement cross members of all lengths and sizes over the years this way. The only negative is that the PortaBand doesn’t always have the clearance when cutting out an old frame section so I have to resort to the angle grinder to finish the grind after I’ve cut it out as close to possible with the band saw first.
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That completely slipped my mind, excellent suggestion!
 
Safety.
I am too old, slow, weak, and stupid to use a skil saw anymore.
The band saw is a good idea, but you are stuck.
Sawzall or hand saw. Cutting wheel or angle grinder. No chainsaws
 
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