Sous Vide Setup


 
The files are now up on Thingiverse for download. Be warned that with the size of the case, I have not allowed room for a fuse holder, so you may want to think about installing an in-line fuse with the AC portion of the wiring. Safety first!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1405661
 
Last edited:
I'm not an EE, and frankly when I start working with household power I get a little nervous attempting anything without getting someone's approval. So when I go to hook up my SSR is this how I want to do it?

zCnv9dc.jpg
 
Looks correct.

On the AC switching side of the relay, that red wire in your diagram should be the "hot" wire ie: not the "neutral" wire.

On the DC input side of the relay, the - and + would be the DC 12v - and + from the RJ45 jack from the heatermeter ( GND and BLOW )
 
Thanks Seth, that's one of those things that I forget until I open up a wall receptacle then the black==dead clicks in.
 
I've been watching for sales on the Anova but it's still too much(over $200 CAD) and I love the idea of the HM doing double duty.

How is the Sous vide going so far? Any downside to the slow cooker being operated the way it does with the HM?
 
Melvin C said:
I've been watching for sales on the Anova but it's still too much(over $200 CAD) and I love the idea of the HM doing double duty.

How is the Sous vide going so far? Any downside to the slow cooker being operated the way it does with the HM?
Click to expand...

Probably the only down side with a slow cooker is you're limited by the size (volume). Otherwise, it's been working like a charm.
 
Melvin C said:
I've been watching for sales on the Anova but it's still too much(over $200 CAD) and I love the idea of the HM doing double duty.

How is the Sous vide going so far? Any downside to the slow cooker being operated the way it does with the HM?
Click to expand...

just an FYI....anova is having mothers day special $50 off....$129 USD.....tempting...
 
I built a similar setup a long time ago for my sous vide heatermeter setup, but your design definitely kicks my design's butt. Would you be willing to post the part numbers for the keystone, whatever that silver jack is, screw sizes, and any other parts that would be required to build one of these? I'm looking to make an upgrade while I have easy access to a 3d printer.
 
JayS said:
I built a similar setup a long time ago for my sous vide heatermeter setup, but your design definitely kicks my design's butt. Would you be willing to post the part numbers for the keystone, whatever that silver jack is, screw sizes, and any other parts that would be required to build one of these? I'm looking to make an upgrade while I have easy access to a 3d printer.
Click to expand...

Hey Jay,

Sorry for the delay, but i've been ona 3 day drive relocating to Montana.

The keystone is the keystone Ce Tech 5e one they sell at Home Depot. That silver jack is actually an LED wired in parallel to the input (control) voltage to indicate when it's on/off. The screws are M6 cap screws, long enough to thread into the case (10 mm?).

There's a little more description on the Thingiverse page

Also, I found this which is actually pretty much the same thing, just dowsn't have that perty keystone interface.

Just be aware, with no active cooling, these are not designed to run high wattage heaters, thus why mine was designed for a crock pot (slow cooker) which draws minimal power.
 
Last edited:
WBegg said:
Hey Jay,

Sorry for the delay, but i've been ona 3 day drive relocating to Montana.

The keystone is the keystone Ce Tech 5e one they sell at Home Depot. That silver jack is actually an LED wired in parallel to the input (control) voltage to indicate when it's on/off. The screws are M6 cap screws, long enough to thread into the case (10 mm?).

There's a little more description on the Thingiverse page

Also, I found this which is actually pretty much the same thing, just dowsn't have that perty keystone interface.

Just be aware, with no active cooling, these are not designed to run high wattage heaters, thus why mine was designed for a crock pot (slow cooker) which draws minimal power.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. I currently use my setup to run a crock pot for sous vide and for a DIY electric smoker. I don't need too cool the SSR when running the crock pot, but I probably do need to for the 800-1000 W smoker.

I currently passively cool the SSR with a heatsink, so I may modify your box to accommodate the heatsink sitting outside of the case. If you have the source files, that would help otherwise I'll just hack at the STLs. I probably should just break down and buy a powerswitch tail, but where's the fun in that?

Hope the move went well!
 
I've designed a new version of the sous vide enclosure for the HM. It now has an IEC standard fused power cord plug, and a 3-prong (US) appliance plug so no cords are hard wired.

As usual, the thingiverse files can be downloaded here



 
sousvidewiring.png


Just want to make sure I have this correct. I updated the earlier post with what I think is correct?

Do i have the right pin numbers off the ethernet for the fan?

I bought the following LED to use. Will that work in the spot I have it?

Does everything else look right?

Should I wire the ground together on the two plugs?
 
The LED is in the wrong spot, unless you want the magic blue smoke. The LED needs to be wired in parallel with the "input" side, with Anode to + and Cathode to -. This CANNOT be wired backwards. The longer leg of the LED is the Anode (+).

Also, looks like your LED has a rating of 60ma @ 12V, so you will have to wire a current limiting resister in series with one of the legs of the LED, if it's not already there. A value of 220 minimum, but I'd go with 330 to 470 ohms to be safe (1/4/watt).

The pin numbers of the ethernet jack are correct, and yes, definitely wire the grounds together on the two plugs, as you have pictured above, but DO NOT wire the ground of the input to the ground of the output.

Good luck!

EDIT: As a reminder, the LED does not indicate that power is on, but instead indicates when the SSR is on, i.e., it will turn on when the output from the HM turns on.
 
Last edited:
sousvideelecv3.png


Okay that is my new drawing... Ignore the color coding on the resistor in the image.

I think I have the led correct... yeah no blue smoke!

For the LED to be in parallel with the input I think I could just wire the annode to the #3 lead on the SSR and wire the cathode to the #4 lead on the SSR as long as I also put the resistor on it.

Thanks for your help!
 
What's the led supposed to tell when it's on or off. Doesn't most ssr's have a small led that tells when it's on or off. The one I bought my mom had a led on it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top