Sidewinder Rehab - Questions and progress


 
R

Rick Houston

TVWBB Member
I'm refurbishing my '08 Genesis EP-320 and have disassembled the whole thing. I have removed the casters and plastic caps to the frame and the frame doesn't look terrible.

Should I run a gun patch in there to try and remove the rust?

What can I use to prevent rust? Should I just buy some black or gray rust prevention paint and try to spray it in the frame?

I've attached a few pics I tried to take of the frame interior.

Thanks,

Rick
 

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You can go wild but honestly for the most part it won't rust out in your's or mine lifetimes
 
Thanks, appreciate your input on my resto questions.

Is there any issue using copper anti-seize on the firebox bolts that connect the box to the frame? After I still out the current one, I don't want to have to drill again in the future.
 
I am not too experienced with the anti-seize products, but I use an aluminum based one.
And I agree with Larry, the rust inside the frame tubes likely won't become an issue before you or the rest of the grill is on the scrap heap.
 
I have to say that this is extraordinary service from a 300 series frame(y). Most I have ever dealt with are already badly rusted and many unable to hold the caster or the door hinge. I wouldn't argue with Larry or Bruce given the excellent condition yours is still in. If it were me, though, I think I would go ahead and spray in some rust encapsulator all the same. I would also put plenty of car wax on all of your exterior painted metal in that cabinet area. Anything to drive off the water. Of course, the best thing is to store that grill between uses in a place that is protected from rain and humidity. Also, get all that cabinetry metal clean and dry after using.
 
I have to go with Jon on this one after years of him showing blown out bottoms and legs on these. Name of the game is to stay ahead of rust mostly in leg tubes and anywhere the bottom panel joins the L&R frames and rear panel. I'm fortunate I don't have to deal with humidity or salt air so very minor issues with the two of these we have online nor the parts grill. Salt air does wonders for rust on steel and growth on aluminum. Easier to do some PM rather than reconstruction after the fact.
 
Thanks, I've been really happy with the grill and do keep a cover on it.

I've been inspired by all the members here and appreciate the answers to all my questions.

A frame up restoration is in progress. Below are some pics of all the parts. The bottom was primered an hour ago and is drying. The handle bar caps were primered yesterday and are ready for black paint.
 

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Jon Tofte said:
I have to say that this is extraordinary service from a 300 series frame(y). Most I have ever dealt with are already badly rusted and many unable to hold the caster or the door hinge. I wouldn't argue with Larry or Bruce given the excellent condition yours is still in. If it were me, though, I think I would go ahead and spray in some rust encapsulator all the same. I would also put plenty of car wax on all of your exterior painted metal in that cabinet area. Anything to drive off the water. Of course, the best thing is to store that grill between uses in a place that is protected from rain and humidity. Also, get all that cabinetry metal clean and dry after using.
Click to expand...
I never thought about treating the painted metal like car paint. My cars are ceramic coated. Maybe I will ceramic coat the grill frame :)
 
I forgot to add on my earlier post that since you already have it all apart, now is the time to do it. I loosen and retighten the firebox frame bolts annually as well as remove the lid pins and relube them. Photos look great!
 
I personally would not. Most of what messes them up are not the threads or nuts, it's the bolt heads inside the firebox. I don't take them all the way out when I do it. I back the nut off to protect the threads and hit it with a hammer. The bolts break free pretty easily if you do it annually since it keeps ahead of the electrolysis between the aluminum and steel. Always the rear bolt since that catches most of the crud in the firebox. Nobody I know grills all the way at the front, so that bolt head stays pretty clean. Depending on how your manifold is attached to the firebox, the same thing applies there too.
 
Never-Seez is rated for 1200°F. It's not going to migrate if you use it properly. The oil that keeps the solids in suspension burns off or otherwise goes away and leaves behind the solids. I can understand why you don't want it in your food but it's hard to imagine a scenario where that could happen.
 
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