Sidewinder Rehab - Questions and progress


 
There is no issue with it inside or outside the FB. It's not meant to be a lube. It's meant to leave behind the solids. Common use is O2 sensors on a car manifold. If you have ever opened the hood of a car (especially a turbo one) after driving it hard it's not uncommon to see the exhaust manifold glow orange. Many cars have the manifold wrapped to do 2 things 1. Keep the heat from damaging underhood components but also to keep heat in the manifold and "light off" the sensors and catalysts even faster. Without antiseez/Never Seez you would never get those sensors out to replace them. If you have ever taken one out you would have noticed there is no "oil" left behind on the threads only the copper or silvery residue. That is the design of the material. So once your grill gets hot whatever was going to "burn off" is long gone and nothing to be concerned about
 
I continue to make progress although it's slower than I would like with work getting in the way :).

Does anyone know if the hardware below is fairly common and I should be able to find at ACE? I'm also going to Call Weber tomorrow and see if they carry the hardware

1) J Hook that connects to frame

2) Sheet metal screw that connects to side burner from gas manifold

3) bracket that holds gas line from manifold to side burner.
 

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I doubt you will find those frame connector clips other than from Weber or an online source. I know I bought some, I think from ereplacements.com, that came as a set in a bag.

The sheet metal screw shouldn't be hard to find.

The bracket might be available, but maybe not at a small hardware store. You will need a place with ample stock or an online hardware supplier IMO.
 
Thanks Jon. I called Weber today. They would sell me a grill hardware package that would have a J clip, but they were not familiar with the sheet metal screw that holds the bracket which holds the gas line from the manifold to the side burner. The sheet metal screw screws into the underside of the firebox at the back.

I'm going to try Ace tomorrow.

Rick
 
Latest update:. Weber sent me a new cookbox since mine had developed a hole near the frame bolt attachment. Great customer service by Weber.

Question:. New cookbox came with new frame mounting bolts. Are these any good? I would like any opinions on these vs. purchased stainless hardware?




Thanks,

Rick
 

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Also, is the Weber regulator and hose worth purchasing from them? The sidewinders take a 41 in. hose and this size doesn't seem too common.
 
Use stainless hardware and Never Seize on the threads and anywhere it passes through the aluminum. As for the regulator. Weber's are the same Chinese stuff as any generic. No need to buy from Weber
 
Yep, just find a generic one that is in the 3-4' range. It will likely be less than half of what Weber brand will be.
 
Thank you both for the replies. Any opinions of the GasOne regulators on Amazon and ebay? The have a control knob on the regulator. I'm skeptical of them, but they are one of the few hose/regulator combos available in a 4ft. length.

Rick
 
I don't know which regulator you are looking for, but the regulators I have with knobs on the reg are adjustable pressure, typically from 1psi - 20psi. They are used with large burners, turkey fryers, and propane forges and are not suitable for our grills. You need a reg that is specifically rated for 11"WC (water column), which is about 1/3rd psi. Do not buy Low Pressure, High Pressure, Adjustable, or 1 PSI regs...they provide too much pressure for our grills...11"WC rated regs only.
 
It would work fine. Don't understand why you feel you need one that can reach around the block. And also, no adjustable ones. While in theory they can get you to low enough pressure, when operating down low they tend to be very unstable. They're meant as Ed IIRC said primarily for high pressure applications
 
Rick: You made a good choice. Dozyant is a brand that I have used several times before. They are all made in china and probably all made in one of a few factories. Companies then buy them and sell them under their own label. When you hook up that hose, you don't want to use any pipe dope or tape on the connection. The flare connection is "self sealing".
Keep us posted on how it goes.
 
LMichaels said:
It would work fine. Don't understand why you feel you need one that can reach around the block. And also, no adjustable ones. While in theory they can get you to low enough pressure, when operating down low they tend to be very unstable. They're meant as Ed IIRC said primarily for high pressure applications
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The Sidewinders use a 41 in. hose stock from Weber. It's further to the manifold than other models. I suppose I could route the other way from the tank and it wouldn't need to be quite as long.
 
Bruce said:
Rick: You made a good choice. Dozyant is a brand that I have used several times before. They are all made in china and probably all made in one of a few factories. Companies then buy them and sell them under their own label. When you hook up that hose, you don't want to use any pipe dope or tape on the connection. The flare connection is "self sealing".
Keep us posted on how it goes.
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Thanks Bruce, I appreciate all your feedback to my questions. I'm getting close to reassembly.
 
Keep us posted. It has been a while since I messed with a sidewinder, but I don't remember it being all that far from the tank in the cabinet to the manifold that it would need more than a three foot hose.
 
Rick Houston said:
The Sidewinders use a 41 in. hose stock from Weber. It's further to the manifold than other models. I suppose I could route the other way from the tank and it wouldn't need to be quite as long.
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That's odd. I have the regulator that I took off my 2000 and it's nowhere near that long
 
Larry, really the only difference between your 2000 and the E3xx is that the hose has to go into the cabinet to connect to the tank on the E3xx. That would add a little to the length, but I still don't think 3.5 feet is necessary.
 
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