Seeing Double: Taking on an antique Broilmaster D2 & lessons for Weber restores


 

Jon Tofte

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Ever prone to rabbit trails and grills that need a museum that I don't have, when I saw this pretty rare Broilmaster "double grill" I just had to figure out a way to get it.

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This unusual set-up was made by Broilmaster for a while. This one is the slightly later model with front controls, whereas the first model had the controls on the post. The theory behind this contraption is that you have a regular grill on the left (complete with rotisserie brackets) while the right serves as an outdoor "oven" or for low and slow BBQ:

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We hadn't even closed on our house when I made arrangements to pre-pay and have the seller hold it until I could come and get it. It was listed on FB Marketplace by the owner's daughter. She said he was happy to hear that I was going to restore it and therefore was willing to hold it under those terms. I picked it up and have stored it since then as I tried to get moved in, established in my new remote working jobs and, most of all, get a shop set up.

The oven side features a unique "half burner" and was in pretty good shape for a grill pushing 40 years old. However, the original cast iron grates (on both sides, actually, were mostly a lost cause. The oven side was supposed to have additional shelves. I found some for sale that are stainless but somewhat thin. Should be fine for this type of use. The cast iron is a problem, because this grill has the "2" body style that Broilmaster no longer supports. It doesn't use the high "waterfall" design, but it does have a slight ridge. So cutting down plain flat grates is not going to result in a level grilling surface - at least without modifications.


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So, after picking it up and buying the stainless oven trays (test fitted above) I have had to leave this gem sitting stored in my never finished shop. My shop still needs a lot of attention, but I have started doing a little bit. I am assembling parts to take to the sandblaster, including the firebox and endcaps from my Genesis Jr. project. I really wanted to include the lids and huge body from this Broilmaster, so I decided to start disassembling it. Not a super easy task.

Like some Weber's this Broilmaster has issues with the hinges. Two out of four were frozen in completely, and one of these had actually broke itself - thankfully not the cast aluminum hood or firebox.

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It is pretty nerve wracking working on removing these pins. I keep hearing Larry warning about shattered aluminum. If that happens, this project is toast since for something as rare as this, you don't just "wait for a donor grill." I have applied plenty of PB Blaster and might try the heat trick. Otherwise, a cut-off wheel and some very careful drilling. As in a Weber restore, I plan to use never-seize on the replacement pins, but I also want to be sure not to use ones that are so extremely tight.

In Weber restores I have noticed this problem is much more common in 300 series Genesis grills then in the older "classic" Genesis grills. I wonder if the heavier, larger hood in the 300 series required tighter tolerances to prevent sloppy openings and closings.

TO BE CONTINUED
 
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I have seen those pop up around here. Ducane was another company that made something similar back in the day. Quite an undertaking there my friend
 
Jon, remembering back to my BM rebuild, I think those hinge pins are designed to be seated into the grill pivots on one side. They don't have the cotter pin to hold it in, so it is designed to wedge into one side and the other side is where the pivot is. If I recall correctly, if you do get one out, it will have cross hatching which is what helps it wedge into the pivot bracket on one side.
 
That's quite the project Jon and you're the guy that can pull it off. Can't wait to see that puppy as good as new again.
 
This project will be a slow boat, like most all of mine:rolleyes:.

Bruce,
I don't totally follow what you are saying, but would like to know more. There is no question that the pins on the one side for sure, are really tight. I will post a picture of the one pin that I was able to remove intact and both sides of each lid. Are you saying the pins were supposed to stay in there? One was already broken off when I got it.
 
Yah, I think the pins were designed to wedge into cook box hinge. That is how they stay in place. The lid pivoted on the pin unlike the Webers that normally pivot on both sides of the pin. Since the BM pin wedges into the cookbox pivot bracket, it doesn't need the cotter pin to hold the pin in like on a weber.
You really have to remove at least one pin to get the lid off. I guess you could leave the other pin in. I know I took both out on mine, but I remember having a tough time getting them back in. Like you, I was really worried about cracking the cast aluminum hinges on the cook box and lid. You can't just go pounding them back in.

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Interestingly enough, I happened to take a photo of my pivot pins from my BM...You will see the knurling on the one end of the pin which wedges into the cookbox hinge bracket.

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I would think you could replace those with Weber style pins if necessary although, I think they are a bit smaller in diameter than standard Weber pivot pins. But, I think you could find them at a Menards/Ace/Fastenal or other store such as those.
 
Bruce,
Yes, the pin I was able to remove intact has that "cross-hatching" - I guess a good sign it was supposed to stay in there!

I just looked at it again. The pins were in there with the heads both on the outside with pins pointing in. Are you saying one pin is "permanent" and that you wedge the hood in and then put the other pin in there? If they both face in and are "permanent", I don't see any way of getting the hood on or off. I will have to do something different because like I said one pin was broken off already. And my removal efforts broke another. They are 40 years old!

I may leave the one intact permanent pin rather than chancing breaking the aluminum on that side at least. But, the rest, I think, need to go since they are not intact, just broken and stuck. After hopefully safely removing, I am inclined to replace with pins with holes and cotter pins to hold them in. It makes more sense to me. I agree that there are enough sizes of these available that I should be able to find something that will work.
 
Bruce,
Yes, the pin I was able to remove intact has that "cross-hatching" - I guess a good sign it was supposed to stay in there!

I just looked at it again. The pins were in there with the heads both on the outside with pins pointing in. Are you saying one pin is "permanent" and that you wedge the hood in and then put the other pin in there? If they both face in and are "permanent", I don't see any way of getting the hood on or off. I guess "semi-Permanent" is a better term. IMO, a solution that BM used that is probably not as good as the one that Weber used. I will have to do something different because like I said one pin was broken off already. And my removal efforts broke another. They are 40 years old! Yah, I think my grill was mid to late 70's so I was pretty worried as well. To tell you the truth, I cannot fully remember exactly how I got the pins off. I just remember them being real PIA's. Maybe the best way would be to use something like a gear puller.

I may leave the one intact permanent pin rather than chancing breaking the aluminum on that side at least. But, the rest, I think, need to go since they are not intact, just broken and stuck. Yep, I think you could leave the one intact pin alone and slide the lid off it after the other side was released. After hopefully safely removing, I am inclined to replace with pins with holes and cotter pins to hold them in. It makes more sense to me. I agree that there are enough sizes of these available that I should be able to find something that will work. Yep, you should be able to find some at the types of places I listed. Besides, it might be pretty tough to find replacements for the original style pins anyway.
 
Thanks for the helpful replies, Bruce. I will be sure to go easy. For the most part I see using Weber style hole pins and cotter pins to keep them in place as a much better way to go.
 

 

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