Scored a Genesis Silver B! Some questions about part-swapping


 
A

Andrew K.

New member
Hey all,

Newbie here. I picked up an early 2000's Genesis Silver B model grill yesterday. New(er) grates and flavor bars, and fires right up - just needs a good cleaning, and I'll be set! :)

As I have the grill partially disassembled for transport/cleaning, I was thinking of swapping out the plastic sideboard/flip up tray, and lid handle with wood ones (I definitely prefer the look). The problem is, I have only been able to find an aftermarket lid handle, but no replacement side trays.

Just curious if anyone knows where I might be able to find both? (Other than hunting down a donor grill for parts, which I have no space for). Or if a replacement isn't an option, then perhaps someone could share dimensions of the trays/lid handles? (For fabbing up/having them cut - I'm guessing the dimensions are a bit different than the plastic parts).

Thanks!
 
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I don't think you can make the slat type side tables and flip up tables work. Completely different frame and design
 
Any possiblity of fabricating something yourself?
basically taking a few 1x pieces of cedar or something cutting to length and screwing into the frame? maybe attaching them together and attaching with an L bracket to the frame?
 
Chris Kug - While I don't have the tools to cut the wood slats myself, there are hardware/lumber stores near me where I could probably cut stuff down/have it cut down. I'm just curious what the proper dimensions are, as I don't have a set of dura-wood tables for reference (And I'd rather use real wood, if possible).

Now, not to change the topic, but I need some other help w/my grill now! I've been in the middle of disassembling it for a thorough cleaning, and refinishing the outside of the lower portion of the cookbox w/some high temp BBQ paint (The Rustoleum stuff). Somebody tightened down one of the guide screw/bracket sets for the burners (Where the flanged end gets tucked under), and I cannot get the back burner removed. I've tried every single socket, screwdriver, and drill bit I own to try and loosen it back up so I can remove the last burner, to no luck whatsoever. Even what seems like the correct size flathead screwdriver or drill bit simply isn't gripping the bolt. Because it's inside of the cookbox, I haven't used any WD-40 or PB Blaster to try and loosen it (But am about desperate enough to try it).

Another problem - The bolt on the side of the cookbox that fastens it to the frame broke when I tried to remove it. The end of the bolt sticking through the other end (to the inside of the cookbox) is too short for any type of twisting it with pliers or anything (It's also very rusty). I do not have any large drill bits/large drills to completely remove it and start over, and I'm wondering what else I can do to get it out? I don't know how well drilling a hole into the broken end (and trying to twist it out that way) would work, as I cannot see it at all (the broken end being inside of the tube framing), and grinders aren't an option for me at this time (I don't have one, but I also live in an apartment, so I can only push it so much with volume). What's an easy way to try and get it out?

Talk about a simple 10-15 minute job turning into a nightmare! :mad:
 
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The screws on the left side of the fire box that APPEAR to hold the burners in should NEVER be touched. The burner tubes slide out to the right side after removing the manifold. My guess also is you broke the bolt going through the left side of the fire box that holds it to the frame. Drilling out id about the only "safe" way to get it out
 
If you broke off the head on the frame side you could probably just pull the bolt through the frame with the fire box, soak it with pb blaster and have enough to try to grip it. The best thing is drilling though.
 
LMichaels said:
The screws on the left side of the fire box that APPEAR to hold the burners in should NEVER be touched. The burner tubes slide out to the right side after removing the manifold. My guess also is you broke the bolt going through the left side of the fire box that holds it to the frame. Drilling out id about the only "safe" way to get it out
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Yeah, I was under the impression that those guide screws were not to be adjusted. Unfortunately, someone else thought it would be a good idea to do so at some point.

It looks like it should be a #2 flathead to loosen it a bit so I can remove the last burner (right now, it's tightened firmly in place), but every flathead I've tried just slips out. Even trying to improv with other flat tipped tools hasn't worked. No sockets seem to grip it. It does look a bit beat up though. What's another option? Drill a guide hole on the bolt head and use an extractor? I'd like to try something else before going that route if possible.

Any specific tips on how to get the broken bolt out would be appreciated as well. How would I go about drilling/extracting it out if I can only see the pointed end of the bolt sticking into the firebox?
 
Did they torque it down? If you have to mess with it and I wouldn't, but if you just absolutely had to, I'd soak it with pb blaster and let it sit for a day, and use the proper sized hex socket (not one that could round the head off). The burner should just pull out from the right side, however, without messing with those screws.
 
That's just it though - they DID torque the bolt down, unfortunately...the burner isn't coming out until I can loosen it. I was hoping to avoid PB blaster/WD-40 because it's inside of the cookbox (to avoid residue getting into food), but I guess if I have no choice...

Any chance you can tell me what size the bolt actually is? I've tried numerous sockets in both metric and standard sizes that seem to have a snug fit over it, but nothing grips...
 
Andrew you CANNOT torque that screw down enough to bind up the burner. There is a "shoulder" in the casting and no matter how tight that screw is it is impossible to tighten it down on top of the burner flat. Most likely there is carbon and grime built up that is holding it in place. By the time those screws have been in there for a number of years the head is not a standard sized so finding a socket to fit it is impossible. Even if you do nothing you do will prevent it from breaking off. If you break it off there you'll never be able to get a drill that close into the corner so you'll have to use a piece of angle stock to make a hold down for the burner tube.
 
What LM said. Focus on pulling the burner tube out. I've had some that seemed stuck before. Use some degree, gunk, whatever and pull the burner tube.
 
Don't worry about using penetrating oil in the box. Once you reassemble and heat things up for 15 minutes or so any residue will be long gone.
 
Back with updates!

So I did get the last burner tube out - it was indeed being held down by random crud, which may be the cause of my newest issue (more on that later). Upon closer examination, one of the burner tubes has a small hole in it (where there shouldn't be one), and they are oxidizing, so I went ahead and decided to pick up a new set.

As for the broken bolt on the lower half of the cookbox, I ended up having that one salvaged by a co-worker. He had to grind down the ends of the bolt and drill a new hole in the box. Definitely going to be using a stainless steel bolt and wing nut for a replacement!

Now I'm stuck with another problem. I've had so much trouble trying to remove the right side trim piece (The one w/hangers for utensils), that I've literally destroyed it. One side of it came out of the tube frame just fine. There is still a piece of plastic stuck in the other tube that I'm still trying to remove with minimal luck. Tried prying it out at first w/a screwdriver. Tried using a hammer. Tried using a broken broom pole through the tube with a hammer. Even had some help w/it at Home Depot with a piece of rebar and a mallet - STILL wouldn't come out. The plan for now is to keep shredding what's left of it apart w/drill bits. But I'm wondering if there's an easier way?

Also, any tips for getting the inside of the cookbox roof, and the lower cookbox portion cleaner? Soak it all in oven cleaner overnight maybe?

Definitely turning into much more of a project than I had hoped for...ready to be done w/this little rehab job so I can enjoy some spring steaks and brats!
 
Andrew K. said:
Back with updates!

So I did get the last burner tube out - it was indeed being held down by random crud, which may be the cause of my newest issue (more on that later). Upon closer examination, one of the burner tubes has a small hole in it (where there shouldn't be one), and they are oxidizing, so I went ahead and decided to pick up a new set.

As for the broken bolt on the lower half of the cookbox, I ended up having that one salvaged by a co-worker. He had to grind down the ends of the bolt and drill a new hole in the box. Definitely going to be using a stainless steel bolt and wing nut for a replacement!

Now I'm stuck with another problem. I've had so much trouble trying to remove the right side trim piece (The one w/hangers for utensils), that I've literally destroyed it. One side of it came out of the tube frame just fine. There is still a piece of plastic stuck in the other tube that I'm still trying to remove with minimal luck. Tried prying it out at first w/a screwdriver. Tried using a hammer. Tried using a broken broom pole through the tube with a hammer. Even had some help w/it at Home Depot with a piece of rebar and a mallet - STILL wouldn't come out. The plan for now is to keep shredding what's left of it apart w/drill bits. But I'm wondering if there's an easier way?

Also, any tips for getting the inside of the cookbox roof, and the lower cookbox portion cleaner? Soak it all in oven cleaner overnight maybe?

Definitely turning into much more of a project than I had hoped for...ready to be done w/this little rehab job so I can enjoy some spring steaks and brats!
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Congrats on the progress Andrew. Yeah, sometimes things don't go as planned and restores take a lot longer than anticipated. It happens now and then. For the lower cook box, the absolute easiest way to clean it is to get a $10 angle grinder from Harbor Freight and use a 4 (1/2) inch cup wire brush with it. On the inside top of the box, place the lid upside down and pour some simple green and let it soak. then go after it with a Scotch Brite pad.
 
Scotch brite pads will ruin the porcelain. Believe it or not fine steel wool (i.e. a brillo pad or SOS pad) will do a better job with no damage to the porcelain
 
LMichaels said:
Scotch brite pads will ruin the porcelain. Believe it or not fine steel wool (i.e. a brillo pad or SOS pad) will do a better job with no damage to the porcelain
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I have a black hood on one of my silvers that has some oxidation SOS pad and water will clean that up? I mean I guess it shouldn't make it worse famous last words
 
Do you mean rust? Or do you mean the color has faded? If the color has faded nothing will bring it back. Common issue on the black ones. Rust? Different issue. But yes and SOS or Brillo is the way to go to "clean" it. NOT a Scotchbrite. A Scotchbrite is the worst thing you can use
 
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