Jeff Hanson
New member
Not sure but I don’t think this was the first time this grill had been worked on, maybe the last guy had to deal with some that were pretty seized upHow did those drip tray rail mounting posts get so chewed up?
Not sure but I don’t think this was the first time this grill had been worked on, maybe the last guy had to deal with some that were pretty seized upHow did those drip tray rail mounting posts get so chewed up?
You do have to be careful removing those screws. I cringe every time I need to do it.Not sure but I don’t think this was the first time this grill had been worked on, maybe the last guy had to deal with some that were pretty seized up
No my screws came out with a gentle press on the impact trigger. The bosses themselves were missing a few chunks though and the oxidation was helping them stay in placeSo did the bosses crack or break off when you pulled the screws? I could see that happening if the screws were badly rusted
Oh yeah I could see that happening. When the screws corrode they kind of swell a bit. Aluminum being brittle and it's all she wroteNo my screws came out with a gentle press on the impact trigger. The bosses themselves were missing a few chunks though and the oxidation was helping them stay in place
Yep I think that’s why the news screws I got with the new rail kit were a little too small for the holes I made with the old screws, even though they’re the same screwOh yeah I could see that happening. When the screws corrode they kind of swell a bit. Aluminum being brittle and it's all she wrote
Well that is pretty cool. Gonna keep that in mind should SIL's grill need that type of helpThat fix can be done larry as long as there is enough of the old "Boss" left to mount the slide rail at the proper height. Some times they crumble down to nubs and then you have to make even more mods to solve that problem.
Wondering if I'm off my rocker, but let's assume the "boss" is intact but now oversized. I wonder if it's feasible. Could you carefully drill all the way "up" and through the fire box, then use a longer threaded stainless steel screw (small bolt), nut and a washer on the inside? I've never had to deal with a bad grease tray rail so it's an idea that been floating in my head for a long time but have never tried.
My old Genesis I'd given my son in law finally had a bad rail last year but we did not use the old box because when the construction equipment smashed the grill it caused other damage to the firebox making it useless so we simply discarded it when we put the newer one in it's place.
Well that one sure did. And early in it's life it even had caught fire so bad I had to empty a fire extinguisher in it (boy was that a mess). All because I had no clue grease collected anywhereWeber sounds like a Timex - takes a lickin’ and keeps on ticking’!
I went through this entire break down and a full frame-up restoration of my 21 year old Genesis Gold C this summer. These bolts came out ok for me but the one attached to the frame on the left side of the cook box looked like yours. It is very common. Long story short, the left side bolt had rusted completely off and broke inside the hole with very little pressure and lots of penetrating oil. Called Weber to discuss the problem and they sent me a new cook box under warrantee (25 years for lid and cookbox). I can’t suggest anything other than what you are doing in trying to remove those manifold bracket bolts but if they do break off, Weber may be able to help.I started stripping and cleaning my Genesis 1000 today. The wire brush did a pretty good job inside but I’m leaning toward bringing a pile of metal parts to a sandblaster. I also took survey of all the replaceable parts and ordered some new ones.
The rails for the slide out tray are pretty rusty but I was able to remove the screws without much effort on a small ratchet. The left side frame mounting screw looked like a rusty metal toothpick and the rusty hole in the cross bar where it was attached is big enough for a mouse to crawl in. I have seen the video on how to cut that out and replace with new stock, which I will do.
The drip pan and slide out tray and the flavor bars are all pretty beat up so I ordered new ones. The grill bars and hanging basket themselves are meh serviceable but I ordered some new ones anyway. The burners are rusty but ok except the rear one has a crack thru about 1/3-1/2 of the holes on the forward facing side, which explains the extreme hot spot in that back left corner, so I ordered some new pipes too.
The problem I am having is removing the screws attaching the brackets on the manifold to the fire box. They are size 5 metric hex head bolts, and I tried to break them free but am a little scared I’ll either strip them or crack the box.
Does anyone have any advice on how to free them up? Should I use penetrating oil, or maybe some heat? I have a heat gun but I could just fire up the grill too I guess. Pics of all this attached
WelcomeI went through this entire break down and a full frame-up restoration of my 21 year old Genesis Gold C this summer. These bolts came out ok for me but the one attached to the frame on the left side of the cook box looked like yours. It is very common. Long story short, the left side bolt had rusted completely off and broke inside the hole with very little pressure and lots of penetrating oil. Called Weber to discuss the problem and they sent me a new cook box under warrantee (25 years for lid and cookbox). I can’t suggest anything other than what you are doing in trying to remove those manifold bracket bolts but if they do break off, Weber may be able to help.