Putting big wheels on my Performer to lift it up


 

Kyle in Woodstock

TVWBB Guru
After seeing Jeff and Bob's lifted Performers, I was inspired to do the same. The stainless steel Performer is my favorite generation of all the Performers. The only thing I dislike about it is how low they sit to the ground. I'm 6'2" and lifting it up would make things much easier and more enjoyable, plus I think the big tires look really cool. And I'll be able to easily roll it out into the yard to grill out if I feel like it!


Here is my parts list:
- 5/8 in. x 36 in. Zinc-Plated Round Rod (two, these will be the axles)

- Four 13" x 4" tire/wheels
I have a Gorilla Yard Cart suspended in my garage in storage. It's been there since we moved into our new house last June. So it doesn't get very much use. I used it a lot at the old house, but it doesn't see any action now. So I decided to rob the tires from it....I figure I can always buy new wheels for it, or swap back over the wheels from the grill whenever I do need to use it again...will just put the grill on wood blocks, LOL

- 5/8" Bore Stainless Steel Shaft Collars Set Screw Style (one for each wheel position)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019978Q28/?tag=tvwb-20

- 5/8" flat washers to use on either side of the wheels

I decided to go with a smooth rod for the axle versus the threaded because I figure if the axle did ever start to rust it would be easier to sand or grind down a smooth axle versus a threaded one. The shaft collars (hopefully) will be easy to remove to take off the wheels when I need to. Will also be swapping over an older Weber badge that Dave in KC was nice enough to send me.

Basically, I'll just be drilling out the existing holes in the frame for the stock axle. Then on the other side drilling holes in similar locations.

One question: do you guys think I should go ahead and paint the axle with some Rust-Oleum spray paint?
Right now the axle is really oily, guessing that helps to keep it from rusting. If I paint, I'll use some Simple Green to clean it, then wipe down again with some Xylol before painting. Kind of leaning towards going ahead and painting it.

Here is a before picture of the grill. Also some pictures of the parts I'll be using.

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Thought I would have this baby done today. Went to drill holes for the bigger axles and couldn't find a 5/8" bit. Will have to run out to get one.

Here are the axle shaft collers. Seem much better than those annoying push nuts.

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I did something similar with my Ranch. Raised it up to the height of modern performers roughly. I found the wheels at Harbor Freight and Service Caster to be the best place for the casters. They have tons of selection by size, metal type, and etc. More importantly they list how much they will raise the item off the ground. I managed to get it within a 1/16" to 1/8" level with the back tires and added a few washers to make it perfectly level.

https://shop.servicecaster.com
 

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Some progress shots. Just need to trim down the axles, paint the axles black and the put on the shaft collers. Guess I'll use a hacksaw to cut down the axles...have a feeling that will be tough.

I ended up using a step-bit to drill out the larger holes for the big axles. Was pretty easy.

FYI, I put a link to the shaft collers I used in the original post.

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Didn't want to make a separate thread for this, but I scored a bunch of cool accessories on my recent Marketplace purchase today.

I bought a 2 year old Premium kettle and a 3 month old Performer Deluxe for $400. Both in black. Price seems a little high right? We'll check out this list of accessories that came with those grills:
- GrillGrates for 22" kettle, with the GrillGrates scrapper
- Slow n Sear Deluxe
- Slow n Sear Drip n Roast Pan, Porcelain
- Vortex, medium size
- 2 bags of Weber charcoal
- 1 bag of Jealous Devil charcoal
- Weber charcoal rake
- 3 Weber 21" grill brushes
- 2 sets of Weber charcoal baskets

I feel like I hit the jackpot. Going to clean up both grills to sell them and recoup a large chunk of the $400 I paid. And keep most of the extra goodies for myself.

I bought these from the same guy. Shortly after he purchased the Performer, his friend gave him a barely used large BGE. So he decided to sell these.

IMG_20200809_170530.jpgIMG_20200809_170821.jpgIMG_20200809_170841.jpg
 
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Didn't want to make a separate thread for this, but I scored a bunch of cool accessories on my recent Marketplace purchase today.

I bought a 2 year old Premium kettle and a 3 month old Performer Deluxe for $400. Both in black. Price seems a little high right? We'll check out this list of accessories that came with those grills:
- GrillGrates for 22" kettle, with the GrillGrates scrapper
- Slow n Sear Deluxe
- Slow n Sear Drip n Roast Pan, Porcelain
- Vortex, medium size
- 2 bags of Weber charcoal
- 1 bag of Jealous Devil charcoal
- Weber charcoal rake
- 3 Weber 21" grill brushes
- 2 sets of Weber charcoal baskets

I feel like I hit the jackpot. Going to clean up both grills to sell them and recoup a large chunk of the $400 I paid. And keep most of the extra goodies for myself.

I bought these from the same guy. Shortly after he purchased the Performer, his friend gave him a barely used large BGE. So he decided to sell these.

View attachment 11345View attachment 11346View attachment 11347
Score!
 
Kyle in Woodstock,
Some progress shots. Just need to trim down the axles, paint the axles black and the put on the shaft collers. Guess I'll use a hacksaw to cut down the axles...have a feeling that will be tough.
You can use a pipe cutter instead for a perfect cut. The type you tighten, then spin, repeat.
 
You can use a pipe cutter instead for a perfect cut. The type you tighten, then spin, repeat.
Excellent suggestion!

This is a solid piece of metal though....you think it would still work? Whenever I've used that type of cutter it's been something like a copper pipe that is just a hollow pipe and not a solid piece.
 
Certainly seems to be a more appropriate wheel / caster combo than the originals.
Wish they would consider changing the 26" kettle legs/wheels. Only flaw about those kettles.

I have the Glen Blue 26er and it does seem more solid than some of the MTs of the past in terms of not being as wobbly. However I believe they should go with a Mini Ranch style or even Performer style cart to drop the 26ers into. I would have gladly paid an extra $100 for a better leg system.
 
I have the Glen Blue 26er and it does seem more solid than some of the MTs of the past in terms of not being as wobbly. However I believe they should go with a Mini Ranch style or even Performer style cart to drop the 26ers into. I would have gladly paid an extra $100 for a better leg system.

They do feel solid at first, but over time will develop the wobble. I have a 10 year old 26" and it wobbled badly. It had bad burn through on the bowl, so Weber sent out a replacement. I installed the old legs on the new bowl, and it was solid as a rock. I assumed the legs needed to be replaced, but I guess the legs sockets were the issue.
The Mini-Ranch mod looks so cool. Might do that to mine one day.
 
I used stainless steel collars on both sides of my tires and left maybe a half inch space on each side between the inside collar and frame. If you are really worried about it you could also install some plastic washers.
I did the same. No issues at all. You gotta remember that most the time you won't be rolling the grill around. I still have to trim down my axles to size and spray paint them with Rust-Oleum. I installed the unpainted rods and they are already rusting
 
I did the same. No issues at all. You gotta remember that most the time you won't be rolling the grill around. I still have to trim down my axles to size and spray paint them with Rust-Oleum. I installed the unpainted rods and they are already rusting

I managed to buy stainless steel rods from Grainger and have them delivered. If you have a metal supply near by that is also an option. The cheapest way to cut the axels is probably an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. I was lucky enough to have access to a chop saw. If you are using it on stainless grab a fresh cut off wheel so it isn't contaminating the SS. Afterwards you can take some emery paper to sand it smooth.

Unfortunately SS is about the only material that is resistant to rust. The axel rubs too much for paint to not be scratched off exposing regular steel to the elements.
 

 

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