Planned restoration, any thoughts or advice is appreciated - Genesis Silver C?


 
Jason in CA said:
Here is my first peace of advice. Since you said you are planing to take it apart, you are going to find one bolt that goes through the firebox and the frame. I'ts the only thing holding in the firebox. That sucker can be a real headache. My advice is, if you get a couple wrenches on it and it fights you for more than a couple minutes grab a dremmel or angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and remove it that way. Same advice I got from someone here (I think Bruce) when I was fighting it. Its also the spot that Bruce mentioned could have rust. I've been lucky enough to not have a problem with most of the other nuts and bolts.


As for cleaning the inside, I wold just use the products already mentioned to get the grime off. Grinding out everything sucks and isn't necessary for something that will look the same after you use it a few times. You mentioned the drip pan but may be surprised how nice the drip pan is after you knock off all the big stuff and take a razor to it. The bars that hold the dip pan in looked pretty bad in your picture but they can be cleaned up or replaced.

Take lots o pictures of your progress to share, and ask any questions you can think of.
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I *think* this is the bolt you are talking about? Hard to see in this mass of ...yuk/rust/grease/unidentifiedbrown

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You all are more well versed on the layout/orientation but I have the box on it's side so it isn't resting on the drip tray. Thinking you are talking about "10. 1/4-20 keps nut" from the schematic from the owners manual?
 
Jon Tofte said:
Greg,

Welcome aboard!

Late to the party, but from the picture it looks to have that maroon/wine/whatever color hood - a personal favorite. It looks like this one will take some work, but like others are saying just go slow and do it right. If you are willing to invest a lot of elbow grease and buy some quality parts you will have a grill that can't be replicated with some big box fake stainless grill. You will definitely like it. Keep us posted with pictures of how it goes:).
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Appreciate that Jon, I was quite pleased to see the hood was not a basic black. Is there a list of hood colors anywhere? Otherwise I'll just refer to the build as some weird Project Genesis with this Maroon color from the Wrath of Khan starfleet outfit color until I find some kind of official color somewhere. :)
 
Yes, the burner tubes and crossover tube is definitely shot. Those tank scales can be pretty easily taken apart and cleaned up. You could grind it down and repaint it or just get a can of the rust encapsulator such as Por15 or Eastwood and repaint it as is. Your other option is to find another one from a donor grill.
 
Greg D from WV said:
I *think* this is the bolt you are talking about? Hard to see in this mass of ...yuk/rust/grease/unidentifiedbrown

TFRqwKph.jpg


You all are more well versed on the layout/orientation but I have the box on it's side so it isn't resting on the drip tray. Thinking you are talking about "10. 1/4-20 keps nut" from the schematic from the owners manual?
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Yah, that is just a 1/4" x 2" bolt and uses a regular nut. What I do with them like that is put a vice grips on the nut on the inside of the box and use a 7/16" socket on the bolt head outside the box and just twist it off. 98 times out of 100, it will twist the bolt off before the nut will ever come off. If that doesn't work to break the bolt, then grab an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and cut the nut off on the inside of the cook box. The bolt may be "frozen" in the cook box which means you will either have to drill it out or hopefully punch it out. Then, just make sure you replace it with a new Stainless steel bolt and nut.
 
Speaking of the nuts and bolts, I've seen a spreadsheet somewhere on here that has a # of the 1/4-20 x 1/2" and 2" bolts one needs. Since I'll be pulling apart the frame, wanted to get an order in at marsh.
 
The 1.5" bolts are for fastending the manifold to the cookbox and the 2" bolt is for connecting the cookbox to the frame on the left side. Just make sure you use Stainless Steel bolts and nuts.
 
If you get them at Marsh, ask if they have them in 316 stainless which is more corrosion resistant than even 304, at least that is what I understand. I have bought 316 bolts and screws for my grills and for street signs on the community I manage and have been very impressed with Marsh products.
 
Bruce said:
The 1.5" bolts are for fastending the manifold to the cookbox and the 2" bolt is for connecting the cookbox to the frame on the left side. Just make sure you use Stainless Steel bolts and nuts.
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Jon Tofte said:
If you get them at Marsh, ask if they have them in 316 stainless which is more corrosion resistant than even 304, at least that is what I understand. I have bought 316 bolts and screws for my grills and for street signs on the community I manage and have been very impressed with Marsh products.
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Oh yeah no I gotcha, was more thinking about some spreadsheet I saw on here that listed the quantity of which type you needed for the grill, right now just going off the owners manual for a Silver C and trying to count up the number of -

20. 1/4-20 x 2 inch bolts
44. 1/4-20 x 1/2 inch bolts
55. 1/4-20 x 1 3/4 bolts

Figured if I'm taking this thing apart, back to how it would have arrived in the box, might as well reassemble it with the good 316s as you said.

Also discussing with the wife about changing the grilling area from the patio stones in the back yard and storing the grill inside my garage, grilling out on the driveway. Would save me from having to buy a cover and keep any exposure to the elements out of the equation.
 
If there is any way you can store your grill in the garage I would do it. I wish I could, but I don’t have one! Your grill will last much longer than when left outside, even with a cover.
 
Jon Tofte said:
If there is any way you can store your grill in the garage I would do it. I wish I could, but I don’t have one! Your grill will last much longer than when left outside, even with a cover.
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I'm on the fence about covers. I've seen a lot of covered grills with fade on top. I think something in the cover leeches the paint off.
 
TGodsil said:
I'm on the fence about covers. I've seen a lot of covered grills with fade on top. I think something in the cover leeches the paint off.
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I don't really think that is what is happening. The hoods are made of porcelain which is basically like a glass coating over the steel. There is no paint. I am no expert, but apparently porcelain can fade from various factors. I suspect that high heat (thus the top goes first) is the main one. I am not saying that the sun doesn't also have impact; I just don't think it is the main cause. Also, some grills fade way worse than others. You will see old kettles that have faded to an overall gray while another black one holds most of its color. That suggests manufacturing issues.

The black hoods on the Genesis do seem the most susceptible to fade. It is always the top, while the rest will look perfect - like my black Skyline hood. If it were sun or weather I think you would see some fade on the rest, but the top clearly absorbs the most heat for the longest time period. Don't hold me to it, though, I am not a chemist.
 
Yah, Jon, I just redid a Silver B for a guy and his black hood was perfect except for a small tangerine size area near the top front of the lid. That new Skyline I picked up has the fade in the back center of the lid in a half moon shape about 10 or so inches wide. I wonder if it is just the black contrasting more with the haze or if it is just the black color that is for some reason more susceptible. I am trying to think if I have seen it on any other color.
 
I have a really old red kettle that I got cheap. It has an overall fade. It just seems to me that the black ones always have it on the top only which makes me blame the heat and not the weather/sun.

A Skyline with a little fade on the hood is STILL A SKYLINE:cool:!

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WELCOME BACK TO THE CLUB!
 
Thanks Jon. Gonna be a while before I tackle that one though. I have a few prospective buyers waiting for my next grill so I need to get busy on the money making side of my hobby for a while.
 
I think Weber went through a time with some bad dyes in the porcelain. I think the cause is twofold. The reason the top fades is it carries the worst exposure to heat and sun.
 
Fade? Oh no... Is this more of a sun-bleaching type look to the grill? This one I'm going to work on looks fine but... always good to know what to look for.

Think I have a clear go-ahead for storing this in the garage once it is built and functional. Glad I've been reading up in here, when I was first browsing these older models I was kicking myself trying to figure out how to move the LP tank along with the grill in and out of the garage... then I saw/learned about the tank scale and how it's a holder etc as well. Lots of really neat info on here!

My Friday today, really itching to get this week done so I can bust into some clean-up. Reminds me I need to grab some cleaners. Have you guys found magic erasers working well for anything in particular on these grills? I'm planning to just start off with water and elbow grease to clean most of this, understood that the lid can withstand some serious cleaning from the porcelain lined hood etc, and the fire box is aluminum so don't go nuts there, and be gentle with the wheels (whitewalls). Both of the igniter buttons look really grungy, but the knobs seem decent. Figure some simple green and a toothbrush may go far on some of the bits near any of the wiring.
 
Simple green and #0000 on the lid and control panel. Sams Club grill cleaner and household Stainless Steel wool on the cook box. I like to use bleach on all the plastic parts such as knobs, handles, Thermoset tables, wheels and end caps along with some #0000 steel wool or a green Scotchbrite scrubby.
 
Yea the fade seems more common on the black lids for some reason from what I've seen. Here's what it looks like on the black Genesis that I'm working on:
https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?77...enesis-1000-LX&p=851235&viewfull=1#post851235

As for cleaning, Simple Green has been my go to for most of the grill and has made quite a difference. 0000 steel wool and a razor blade also helped a lot to get the built-up carbon deposits off the inside of the grill and lid.
 
Yep, that is my method as well. Jon, you should be getting those durawood slats and zbars today in the mail.
 
Jon B in MN said:
Yea the fade seems more common on the black lids for some reason from what I've seen. Here's what it looks like on the black Genesis that I'm working on:
https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?77...enesis-1000-LX&p=851235&viewfull=1#post851235

As for cleaning, Simple Green has been my go to for most of the grill and has made quite a difference. 0000 steel wool and a razor blade also helped a lot to get the built-up carbon deposits off the inside of the grill and lid.
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Holy hat. That's awful. Looking like an old Honda there, maybe you could start a rust patina trend on old Webers? ;)
 
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