Paint question for experts


 
I believe you used an enamel paint and the original was lacquer. Enamel will lift any paint that is not enamel. Enamel is a very durable paint but a little finicky. I painted a bicycle frame in the winter and it was tacky for almost a month. When it finally cured it was super strong. Lacquers are very easy to work with and can be used on top of enamel but not as durable. I learned the hard way, don't feel bad it happens to many people.
 
Well, I found out what happened. I called Rustoleum and talked with tech support. They told me had I not wet sanded it everything would have been fine. But because I wet sanded it and broke the "glaze" I needed to wait a second 48 hour period AFTER wet sanding it to let those compounds cure again. Who knew? No warning on the can. The can simply said can be recoated within 1 hour or wait 48+ hours for recoat. Luckily I think I have another upper housing. I really want to get this thing done so I'll simply do a spare housing and redo this one another day and time.
 
Good to know Larry, although I don't think I've ever wet sanded and used Rustoleum for a second coat I use Rustoleum more for protection than for that mirror finish. If I'm looking for a high gloss finish, I use my airbrush or trim sprayer.
 
Rich Dahl said:
Good to know Larry, although I don't think I've ever wet sanded and used Rustoleum for a second coat I use Rustoleum more for protection than for that mirror finish. If I'm looking for a high gloss finish, I use my airbrush or trim sprayer.
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I just could not justify the expense of all the chemicals I would need, plus all the cleanup and so on with my spray gun. In retrospect I should have bought this https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...y-guns/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html and mixed up my own paint. Yeah more expensive but, not by a lot plus the aggravation this has caused me. This would have saved me a ton of aggravation.
I ended up taking the upper gear case cover from another machine I had scrapped. The finish was in good shape but white. I wet sanded it with 800 grit and wiped down with reducer. Two coats of the Rustoleum. It took the finish beautifully and shines just great. So in a couple days when this cures I can get this lid on the Commercial and get it outta the shop.
 
So, how did you paint the final product? Did you go to spray gun or fight with the rattle can?
 
LMichaels said:
I just could not justify the expense of all the chemicals I would need, plus all the cleanup and so on with my spray gun. In retrospect I should have bought this https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...y-guns/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html and mixed up my own paint. Yeah more expensive but, not by a lot plus the aggravation this has caused me. This would have saved me a ton of aggravation.
I ended up taking the upper gear case cover from another machine I had scrapped. The finish was in good shape but white. I wet sanded it with 800 grit and wiped down with reducer. Two coats of the Rustoleum. It took the finish beautifully and shines just great. So in a couple days when this cures I can get this lid on the Commercial and get it outta the shop.
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Glad to hear it came out okay, I know the aggravation of getting deep into a project and have it go south on me. Did I mention Murphy is my cousin.
 
Bruce said:
So, how did you paint the final product? Did you go to spray gun or fight with the rattle can?
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I used up the rattle can. Now that I know what went wrong, I was able to avoid that trap. The job looks amazing. Especially for a rattle can. But, it will be my last rattle can job. Done with that. I will mix and spray my own from now on
 
I would like to learn how to do that, Larry. I have a lot of misadventures with rattle cans. Even if I just could paint frames black with a sprayer that would be a big help - and a $ saver as well. I could line up a whole assembly line of pieces to paint.
 
Jon Tofte said:
I would like to learn how to do that, Larry. I have a lot of misadventures with rattle cans. Even if I just could paint frames black with a sprayer that would be a big help - and a $ saver as well. I could line up a whole assembly line of pieces to paint.
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Yeah, it's one of those things I taught myself after some "lessons" from my buddy's older brother many years ago. I painted about 1/3rd of my oldest daughter's car with base/clear coat. It was a hard color to match but when done you would need a REALLY well trained eye to see where I did it.
Now I have a couple inexpensive spray guns and yeah I am not a pro but I can do a darn good job. Now I need to teach myself to weld LOL.
I am going to buy one of those small gravity feed HVLP guns like I pictured earlier. I think it will be very handy to me and help me avoid what happened to me today
 
Well my "saga" continues. In an effort to get this mixer done so I can get some other projects and customers under way, I decided to simply take the upper housing from a machine I had scrapped some years ago, that's in excellent shape except it's white. So prepped it, and painted it and it came out perfect. Little did I realize there is a couple VERY subtle differences between the machines even though they have the same chassis and overall size. So, off to Menards to buy paint stripper to strip the original back so I could repaint it. Oh boy what a fiasco this is now. So called super strength stripper barely touches the new paint. What a PIA
 
Jon Tofte said:
Larry, that has to be frustrating. Take a deep breath and try to take it one step at a time.
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Thing is, I found out there is a powder coating facility right nearby me. $50-$60 they would have stripped it, blasted it for prep and powder coated for that. Now I have 50% of that in paint and chemicals. Thing is the top I did paint (that was wrong) the finish is as good if not better than factory. I'm mad as hell and proud of myself all at the same time
 
I realize I’m heading a bit off the current tide of the topic, but this seems like the right thread to plug this into. I use Krylon paint but came across this tidbit on Rustoleum. When using Rustoleum’s high heat spray paint, the technical sheet on the website states that “priming is not recommended”. I found this interesting because Rustoleum does offer a high-heat primer but they appear to not want you to use it in some cases. Which begs the question...where would you use a high heat primer other than under a high heat paint?
 
TomRc said:
I realize I’m heading a bit off the current tide of the topic, but this seems like the right thread to plug this into. I use Krylon paint but came across this tidbit on Rustoleum. When using Rustoleum’s high heat spray paint, the technical sheet on the website states that “priming is not recommended”. I found this interesting because Rustoleum does offer a high-heat primer but they appear to not want you to use it in some cases. Which begs the question...where would you use a high heat primer other than under a high heat paint?
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Could be they have different high heat paints for different applications?
 
Or other paint brands do allow or even promote using the primer. No rules against using mixed brands when painting. But I have used it under Rustoleum before. I would use it when painting over questionable areas.. Maybe some very light surface rust or where there might be other contaminents present. Generally though, I don't use it.
Disclaimer: I am not a paint expert, I just play one on the TVWBB forum.
 
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