New Q220, not loving life


 
Where did Weber say the hose was the issue? When this cropped up on the Q220 I bought for my kid they told me there was a known issue with a batch of regulators they used on the 200 series. Oddly they would not cover the replacement for me (though I was right up front and told them I bought it used). So I did "the fix" I too found proper fittings, used a regulator and hose from my Genesis II (since by this time I was running it on NG) and it has been doing just great for the last 2 or 3 years. I even wrote up the procedure in a different forum from back that time. I think what happens (from taking the old regulator apart and inspecting) is the housing was machined wrong and when the gas comes in the zinc and steel expand/contract at different rates and the diaphragm sticks causing low/no gas flow

This is from Webers web site see the bold type about the Qs and the six foot hose.


http://www.weberindia.com/support/faq/faq.aspx?id=1

I should have put this in but I couldn’t find it again until now. The bold section explains why they work fine with the small bottles.
This is from the Weber web site it explains what’s happening and how to fix it but not why it’s such a problem with the Qs. It does appear that it is the regulator shutting down

Frequently Asked Questions My LPG gas grill won't get hotter than 120 to 150 ℃, even with all burners on high. Why?


Since 1995 all regulators (the part that attaches to the gas cylinder to regulate the flow of gas) have included a safety device that restricts the flow of gas in the event of a gas leak. This safety device can be inadvertently activated in two ways, putting the grill into what is commonly called “bypass”. The first way for the device to be activated is to leave one or more burner control knobs in the “ON” position when the LP cylinder valve is opened. The second is not to wait long enough to “start” the grill after opening the LP cylinder valve. The safety device in the regulator is activated each time that the LP cylinder valve is opened. The device resets itself when the gas pressure equalizes between the closed burner control valve and the regulator, through the hose. If a burner control knob is turned on before the gas pressure can equalize, the device will remain in “bypass”. The length of time necessary to wait to “start” the grill after turning on the LP cylinder valve is dependent on the length of the hose and outside air temperature. It is always good practice to wait a few seconds after opening the LP cylinder valve before turning on the burner control knob to start the grill.

Keep in mind that the safety device reacts to a gas leak. If a grill is in bypass, the gas connections and hose should be tested for leaks with a soap and water solution.

If the grill is in bypass, after checking for gas leaks, do the following to get the grill out of bypass:

The Weber Q100, Weber Baby Q, Weber Q200, and Weber Q cannot go into bypass when used as sold.
•When using an adapter hose with the Weber Q/Baby Q grills, the grill CAN go into bypass just like any other LP grill.
Follow these steps to correct it:

Close the LPG cylinder valve
•Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
•Now, start the grill by doing the following:
•Open the grill lid
•Turn the LPG cylinder valve until it is completely open
Wait at least 1 minute. Due to the length of the hose (6'), it takes longer for the gas pressure to equalize.
•Turn the burner control knob to HI/Start
•Press the igniter to light the burner
•Turn any remaining burner control knobs to High
•The grill should preheat to 260-290 degrees ℃ in 10-15 minutes.
•NOTE: Cold weather can delay the time it takes to equalize the pressure
 
Well in the case of my daughter's grill it would not work with a small bottle either (that was my first inclination to try). That was when I called Weber described the issue and was told they had "a batch of bad regulators". I use a long hose on my red top (much newer 220) with no issues so the regulator issue must have been fixed
 
Well in the case of my daughter's grill it would not work with a small bottle either (that was my first inclination to try). That was when I called Weber described the issue and was told they had "a batch of bad regulators". I use a long hose on my red top (much newer 220) with no issues so the regulator issue must have been fixed

My Q100 is about 3-4 years old and works fine with the small bottle but gets finicky with the six foot hose, so it’s probably a combination of both. Also could be why this tread has gone on so long, two different problems that look like one.
I’m going to see if I can find a hose about two feet long to replace the six footer and see if that cures it. I want to keep the small bottle capability so I can’t use your fix but it sure was a great way to take care of it.
 
Hi, Jeff. I read your posts with interest and I have seen this fix on youtube. My trouble is that I can't get my valve stem separated from my old regulator. Almost looks like there's some sort of adhesive. You didn't have any trouble? I've used penetrant to try to get them apart but no dice. It kills me to buy a new Weber regulator assembly just to get a new valve stem. Also, no telling that I won't have the same issue if the company is putting some sort of bond on there. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
This will get your Q220 working every time using the 20LB gas can.
No more Regulator problems.

The parts you will need cost about $23.00 at Home Depot, but well worth it. Basically you take off the Weber
Regulator, put teflon tape on the two brass fittings and connect them together.

Screw the brass fitting to where the weber regulator was and connect the the new regulator.

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exact same parts I used on mine...

http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?50259-Q200-for-110&p=553264&viewfull=1#post553264

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Great blue flame pic^^, campground potatoes cooking away on the blue flame in the snow to boot.

IMG_1130_zps5f083523.jpg
 
TedK

I had no issues taking my regulator off and replacing it. Can you post a picture of your problem and maybe we can help out.
 

 

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