. The lid wont seat properly on the bowl if the bowl is set directly on the frame (the lip of the lid hits the frame before touching the bowl). The 3/4" angle pieces were used because they were available and it was an easy way to level the bowl on the frame. Not a big deal but don't want to see someone disappointed in a build.Stu G was the first to build and he set his right up against the lip of the kettle
Nice build Dustin.....one quick clarification to your earlier post where you said . The lid wont seat properly on the bowl if the bowl is set directly on the frame (the lip of the lid hits the frame before touching the bowl). The 3/4" angle pieces were used because they were available and it was an easy way to level the bowl on the frame. Not a big deal but don't want to see someone disappointed in a build.
DaveW-you will need to remove a larger section of the frame if you install the bowl higher on the frame to account for the narrowing bowl diameter. Ive had good luck gently bending the tabs on the frame to match the curvature of the bowl for a tight fit when installed closer to the rim of the bowl but you will end up with a larger space between the bowl and the frame tabs the higher you set the bowl. Maybe others have tried this and can speak to their success. Enjoy the build...you wont be disappointed.
Sweet side tables Brian. That's using the 'ol noggin.
Thanks Stu. I've hit kind of a snag in my project in that I'm questioning whether or not I need to add some strengthening to the uprights since the bowl won't be bolted in. Basically, the thought is that once loaded up with charcoal and food, the bowl will press downwards which will cause the uprights to flex. Adding in the front handle will would solve part of the problem, but I think I might need to connect all the uprights.
Only idea I've come up with so far is to drill holes through each leg similar to the holes for the axle and run some threaded or round rod through securing each end with a cap nut. The holes, and rods would be as high up on the legs as possible, without interfering with the bowl. That would provide tension in two directions on each leg, which hopefully would prevent them from flexing outwards.
Thanks Stu. I've hit kind of a snag in my project in that I'm questioning whether or not I need to add some strengthening to the uprights since the bowl won't be bolted in. Basically, the thought is that once loaded up with charcoal and food, the bowl will press downwards which will cause the uprights to flex. Adding in the front handle will would solve part of the problem, but I think I might need to connect all the uprights.
Only idea I've come up with so far is to drill holes through each leg similar to the holes for the axle and run some threaded or round rod through securing each end with a cap nut. The holes, and rods would be as high up on the legs as possible, without interfering with the bowl. That would provide tension in two directions on each leg, which hopefully would prevent them from flexing outwards.
Dave;
I think that could work if you have enough threads on the rod to pull the legs together from all sides .
I think your idea would work but since the frame legs are not square rather diamond shaped drilling those holes could be a challenge. I know you don't want to drill into the kettle, but this would solve the kettle from slipping down when weight is added. if you have enough clamps to the clamp the legs against the legs you could use the holes on the leg brackets as a guide. Just a thought, but I do understand not wanting to drill into the kettle.
DaveW hah said:Regardless of drilling or no drilling I am looking forward to seeing the results. Hope your having fun with the build!
Thanks Dustin. My cart project has been on hold for a bit. Will explain more later. I think it might get back on track this week though. Thanks for the offer of the caps. I might just take you up on them.
Dave
Dave,
So it has been a couple weeks how is this project voming along? Hope to see photos.