LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 2


 

Tom Kole

TVWBB Pro
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
You do not want to plug the wired subnet into your home network without disabling the "dnsmasq" service. This is a DHCP and DNS server and if you have two on your network then when another computer tries to get an IP, there's no telling who it will get it from and then you'll have all sorts of networking headaches.

You also should not bridge the lan and wwan if you're going to put the wireless on your existing wifi while leaving the lan assigned to 192.168.200.x, because that's two subnets on the same device and OpenWrt doesn't like that.

Finally, you can't bridge the wwan to wan because that's explicitly disallowed (I'm not sure why but it was added upstream last year).

To attach the Linksys as a client to your existing wifi:
-- Start from a default config, changing one thing often changes multiple things so don't think you can work your way back to default unless you restore the config files.
-- Plug a network cable into the wired ports on the router, and the other end into your computer.
-- Connect to http://192.168.200.1
-- Go to the wireless configuration, enable the wireless, do a scan, then join your network, entering the security information needed.
-- Save and Apply.
-- It will say please wait and that won't ever go away so give it a minute then pull the power and restart. It should connect up to your wireless and you can find it by going to http://openwrt
-- Some fancy browsers will do a search engine search for "openwrt" if you don't include the http://

Also please start new topics when posting a new problem. This thread is 100 pages long and the networking config has been discussed probably 5 times but I can't find it because the thread is 100 pages long!

Thanks Bryan. I had the wireless configured as per your previous post but for some reason when I select the option under the avr firmware page for selecting from the online repository, I get an error, suggesting that the router is having trouble resolving the file repository address.

Also, I started a new thread for the flashing problem.
 

Bryan Mayland

TVWBB Hall of Fame
Originally posted by Tom Kole:
Thanks Bryan. I had the wireless configured as per your previous post but for some reason when I select the option under the avr firmware page for selecting from the online repository, I get an error, suggesting that the router is having trouble resolving the file repository address.
Ah yes. The problem is that Internet Explorer doesn't support cross-domain web requests. The page tries to make a call to "http://capnbry.net/linkmeter/md5.php" but IE thinks it is a security risk because it doesn't support the standard. IE8 and above requires a completely different set of code and I never got around to putting it in. Firefox, Chrome, Opera, Webkit, Android Browser, any of these will work but not IE for now.
 

Dennis C

TVWBB Fan
Question about the crimp connectors. They all seem so very loose when connecting to the circuit board. Any movement and they seem to just pop right off. Are they supposed to fit tight onto the board not sure why they are so loose.
 

Bryan Mayland

TVWBB Hall of Fame
My crimp connectors are actually really tight, such that I have to sort of rock them back and forth to get them off. I bought mine from Pololu close to 2 years ago now, so they may have switched to a different part? Did you get the recommended pin strip from mouser? I know they have a ton with slightly different specs.
 

Dennis C

TVWBB Fan
Bought everything off the parts list so hopefully those are the correct ones. I probably need to order new. Do you have a link to what you recommend?
 

Bryan Mayland

TVWBB Hall of Fame
Originally posted by Dennis C:
Bought everything off the parts list so hopefully those are the correct ones. I probably need to order new. Do you have a link to what you recommend?
I use these standard 0.1" pin header with 0.23" mating length and 0.12" tail length with the female crimp connectors from Pololu. If you look at the crimp connectors, they have a little longue in them that should press compress against the pin. Maybe yours got bent somehow or not bent enough at the factory and need to be bent back?
 

Dennis C

TVWBB Fan
Thanks Bryan,

Maybe I got a bad batch. I'll work around it :)

Now my last problem is the LCD screen not working. lights up and I can control the LCD backlighting.

Although I personally may skip the LCD screen entirely and save the LCD for the PI project in the near future :)
 

John Bostwick

TVWBB Wizard
Originally posted by Dennis C:
Thanks Bryan,

Maybe I got a bad batch. I'll work around it :)

Now my last problem is the LCD screen not working. lights up and I can control the LCD backlighting.

Although I personally may skip the LCD screen entirely and save the LCD for the PI project in the near future :)

Make sure all your connections are good and nothing was crossed, if using a different Lcd then what is on the hardware page then make sure that the wires are correct for that LCD.

My LCD is bigger and had the +- connection for backlight first and not 15 and 16.

Also make sure you have the correct Heatermeter.Hex on the Atmega. The .HexA is for a different Shift register(for LCD) not used on the 3.2 board


HeaterMeter arduino-1.0.1 files HeaterMeter

The Download above has the arduino files that you can compile in arduino-1.0.1

If everything checks out then Brian would have to chim in. The LCD should turn on the instant the power is applied to the heatermeter board.

The only time I have had problem with mine, the most recent proplem, lol, was when I had my wires in reverse order(#1-#6) and the backlight came on and I had one row of full blocks and one row of half blocks.

I hope this helps
 

Dennis C

TVWBB Fan
HI John,

Thanks for the help on the LCD screen

While the forum was down I decided I wasn't going to use the LCD screen. I'm going to stick this in a case. I wanted to keep it in something in case it rains and the case will also serve as storage.



Make sure all your connections are good and nothing was crossed, if using a different Lcd then what is on the hardware page then make sure that the wires are correct for that LCD.

My LCD is bigger and had the +- connection for backlight first and not 15 and 16.

Also make sure you have the correct Heatermeter.Hex on the Atmega. The .HexA is for a different Shift register(for LCD) not used on the 3.2 board


HeaterMeter arduino-1.0.1 files HeaterMeter

The Download above has the arduino files that you can compile in arduino-1.0.1

If everything checks out then Brian would have to chim in. The LCD should turn on the instant the power is applied to the heatermeter board.

The only time I have had problem with mine, the most recent proplem, lol, was when I had my wires in reverse order(#1-#6) and the backlight came on and I had one row of full blocks and one row of half blocks.

I hope this helps
 

NickAuxier

New member

Bryan Mayland

TVWBB Hall of Fame
It is a "standard" 6mmx6mm tactile SPST momentary switch there's a bunch of places that carry it because it is used by a lot of designs I guess. Here's another one:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMsgGjVA3toVBAPC5QNzqaxcJfCuWeQq22Y=
Or you can get 10 from Amazon

Or if you have some other sort of pushbutton lying around, you can just wire it in, or just solder in two leads and touch them together when you want to reset. One side is ground and the other is connected to the !RESET pin so if it shorts to something it will only put out 5V 0.5mA
 

NickAuxier

New member
It is a "standard" 6mmx6mm tactile SPST momentary switch there's a bunch of places that carry it because it is used by a lot of designs I guess. Here's another one:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMsgGjVA3toVBAPC5QNzqaxcJfCuWeQq22Y=
Or you can get 10 from Amazon

Or if you have some other sort of pushbutton lying around, you can just wire it in, or just solder in two leads and touch them together when you want to reset. One side is ground and the other is connected to the !RESET pin so if it shorts to something it will only put out 5V 0.5mA

Thanks for the Fast response.
 

Kevin Scott

New member
Well, I finally got everything assembled and powered up. The Linkmeter is up and running and almost everything is working as intended. For some reason the LED display will not function. Its getting power but Displays nothing even if I adjust the contrast. In looking through the various threads there seems to be a need for a jumper in some location based on the version of the board and firmware. I was hoping someone would be able to take a look at how I have this wired and tell me if it looks correct? I am running the 3.2 board and latest approved firmware of of Git.

7754573440_08155f4d3a_m.jpg


7754572698_a877655e0b_m.jpg
 

Kevin Scott

New member
Never mind.. I Got it, a bad Display is all it was. Replaced it for another a Bingo! Everything is working... Now I have to shove it all inside that tiny case.....

7754953406_785fe33f82_m.jpg
 
Never mind.. I Got it, a bad Display is all it was. Replaced it for another a Bingo! Everything is working... Now I have to shove it all inside that tiny case.....

The fun part is making sure none of the connections come loose doing so. :) Mine has a healthy dollop of gaffer's tape on everything to hold it in place.
 

Ben Fillmore

TVWBB Member
Well, I have to get rid of my WSM. My stupid HOA has outlawed charcoal grills/smokers. You melt hole through the stucco flooring of your balcony, and they never forgive you. (To be fair, that was pretty stupid of me. Also they probably don't even know I did that.) I'm sure I'll be able to sell the smoker for a decent amount locally, but I have no idea what to do with my 95% finished LinkMeter. :mad:
 

D Peart

TVWBB Pro
Finish it, use an SSR and get an electric smoker. The HM works great with an ECB electric. I"ve seen them several times on craigslist for ~$25 from people who had a bad experience with them. Using the HM you will make great Q.

I built one for my brother and he uses it with his Bradley smoker. It will work with pretty much any electric smoker that plugs into the wall outlet.

I posted a schematic for my SSR in this thread somewhere.

dave

Well, I have to get rid of my WSM. My stupid HOA has outlawed charcoal grills/smokers. You melt hole through the stucco flooring of your balcony, and they never forgive you. (To be fair, that was pretty stupid of me. Also they probably don't even know I did that.) I'm sure I'll be able to sell the smoker for a decent amount locally, but I have no idea what to do with my 95% finished LinkMeter. :mad:
 

 

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