Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Connections look good to me. That's a really nice soldering station you've got there too.
LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 2
- Thread starter Chris Allingham
- Start date
I did change it around 10:20. I'll stash it when it completes.
I tried 10, but didn't see much difference. After reading some on tuning the PID, I saw a paper where the guy use 8, 256, 2 for P, D, and I. So tried 50 and it has been great
The fan acts closer to how my BBQ Guru works. I can't plot that, but just watching how it pulses on and off.
dave
I tried 10, but didn't see much difference. After reading some on tuning the PID, I saw a paper where the guy use 8, 256, 2 for P, D, and I. So tried 50 and it has been great
The fan acts closer to how my BBQ Guru works. I can't plot that, but just watching how it pulses on and off.
dave
Nice! 50? Man that seems crazy high. Did you stash that RRD? I'd be interested in looking at the detail a little. I assume you changed the PIDD around 10:20? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Apologies for being a little off topic...
Just read a review of the latest BBQ Guru Wifi controller.
It reminded me that the Linkmeter compares pretty well in terms of functionality... it beats it hands down on the 'fun' of building your own.
Bryan, you should send in a Limkmeter for them to review!
Just read a review of the latest BBQ Guru Wifi controller.
It reminded me that the Linkmeter compares pretty well in terms of functionality... it beats it hands down on the 'fun' of building your own.
Bryan, you should send in a Limkmeter for them to review!
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Unless I misunderstood, Dave changed the Derivative, not the Bias. The "D" parameter. This means that for every degree the temperature has changed in the last 20 seconds, adjust the fan speed by 50%. E.g. if the temperature has changed from 249.2 to 249.7, reduce the fan speed by 25%.
EDIT: Regarding the capacitor, it is up to you really. I erred on the side of a larger capacitor which reduced the buzzing sound the fan made. That buzzing sound is actually generating a lot of electrical noise as well and I was concerned about it messing up the system. I don't know that for a fact though because I only know software
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
It does look like a nice unit and slightly less costly than other wifi devices but golly $400? And why do all these grill controllers have the worst looking web pages generated since Y2K? I can only say good things about their device's operation but for a couple hundred dollars they could hire a web designer to make it not look like just some input boxes in the default font.
Not that the LinkMeter pages are all that pretty either, but we got graphs and live updates and stuff and I'm just some amateur.
Kyle Stierwalt
New member
Connections look good to me. That's a really nice soldering station you've got there too. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thanks for double checking my work Bryan/Daniel. I'm happy with the Hakko FX-888...heats up fast, and love the micro chisel tip it came with, perfect size for the LM PCB.
My thoughts exactly. I love my BBQ Guru, but it cost me $400 and I don't get web access. It runs like a dream though, very much plug-n-forget. I've used it a lot in comparison with the LM.
The LM is nice now that I have it working plug-n-play, still a little more picky than the Guru, but I'll have to admit I use it instead of my Guru now
dave
Not that the LinkMeter pages are all that pretty either, but we got graphs and live updates and stuff and I'm just some amateur. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The LM is nice now that I have it working plug-n-play, still a little more picky than the Guru, but I'll have to admit I use it instead of my Guru now
dave
It does look like a nice unit and slightly less costly than other wifi devices but golly $400? And why do all these grill controllers have the worst looking web pages generated since Y2K? I can only say good things about their device's operation but for a couple hundred dollars they could hire a web designer to make it not look like just some input boxes in the default font.
Not that the LinkMeter pages are all that pretty either, but we got graphs and live updates and stuff and I'm just some amateur. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
John Bostwick
TVWBB Wizard
Got my 3 Pcb boards yesterday
Time to retire the wire wrapped monstrosity.
I kinda hope that going to the pcb it will cure some of my Lcd problems I have delt with since building mine last year.
and hopefully i can figure out how to add the transitor to the lcd, as im using a bigger display then what has been called for.
I hopefully will be working on it tomorrow
Time to retire the wire wrapped monstrosity.
I kinda hope that going to the pcb it will cure some of my Lcd problems I have delt with since building mine last year.
and hopefully i can figure out how to add the transitor to the lcd, as im using a bigger display then what has been called for.
I hopefully will be working on it tomorrow
Bryan,
Had another awesome cook for the 4th. Have to say I absolutely love the LM! I ran with the derivative set to 50 again for the entire cook, and the results were perfect. I couldn't ask for anything better.
As a word for everyone else. Each smoker is a little different so 50 may not work for you, but it doesn't cost you anything to try it out
Thanks again, everyone loved the LM results!
dave
Had another awesome cook for the 4th. Have to say I absolutely love the LM! I ran with the derivative set to 50 again for the entire cook, and the results were perfect. I couldn't ask for anything better.
As a word for everyone else. Each smoker is a little different so 50 may not work for you, but it doesn't cost you anything to try it out
Thanks again, everyone loved the LM results!
dave
Brian J Wilson
New member
I had the same experience with the LCD problem as Dave mentioned. I was getting garbled LCD which was resolved by switching the diode until I got one that worked. I think I ended up using a 1N4148 (or something like that).
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
I don't think anyone has had an LCD issue (other than contrast adjustment) since the new diodeless design. Thank goodness, that was a nightmare.
Dennis C
TVWBB Fan
In the process of doing my first link meter and first circuit board ever. A friend gave me a WT54GV22 linksys router. Does anyone have any ideas if this will work?
Also on the Circuit board the RFM12b what is the best way to put that on the circuit board? I'm using the Dorkbox one. Should I just solder it directly on the board or put some sort of pins and elevate it a bit and solder it that way?
New to this so don't mind my noob questions
Also on the Circuit board the RFM12b what is the best way to put that on the circuit board? I'm using the Dorkbox one. Should I just solder it directly on the board or put some sort of pins and elevate it a bit and solder it that way?
New to this so don't mind my noob questions
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Perfectly valid questions! The WT54GV22 should work but you're going to have to figure out the pinout of the serial header. Depending on how you fit it in there, you'll probably need to adjust the position of the LCD to make it fit once the case goes back on.
The RFM12B just put it in position directly on the board and put a piece of tape over it. Then just touch the soldering iron to the PCB pad and touch it with solder and hold the iron on it for a few second to allow the solder a chance to heat the RFM12 contact to ensure a good connection. Be careful removing the tape to not yank off any of the surface mount components. I was a little sketchy on it at first too but it turns out to be pretty easy. Double verify the orientation because once it is on, there's very little chance of being able to remove it without a heat gun or putting it in the toaster oven.
Kyle Christensen
TVWBB Fan
Out of curiosity, what wireless probes work with that RFM12B?