LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 2


 
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if i went to my main computer downstairs, how would i connect the wrt...would i disconnect the desktop from the dlink825, plug in the wrt to desktop and type 192.168.1.1 there?
 
Originally posted by Dave Smith:
icon_wink.gif
if i went to my main computer downstairs, how would i connect the wrt...would i disconnect the desktop from the dlink825, plug in the wrt to desktop and type 192.168.1.1 there?
Click to expand...

That should work.
 
Originally posted by Mache:
There is a small company here in Silicon Valley called http://www.evilmadscientist.com that sold me my USBtinyISP kit and FTDI Friend. They offer a great deal of Arduino and related products. When I posted my problem on their support forum they offered to take a look if I was local and could drop by. This afternoon I took them up on their offer.

The owner was very generous and spent the better part of an hour evaluating my USBtinyISP and my HeaterMeter board. The verdict was that a) my USBtinyISP was fine, b) the CPU chip was fine, and c) the HeaterMeter board seemed to be assembled correctly but was not responding to the USBtinyISP. His guess was that because I had installed the RFM12 wireless module, its circuitry could possibly be interfering with the CPU chip lines required to install the bootloader from the USBtinyISP. He generously pulled my CPU chip out, inserted it into one of his products, and blew in a bootloader. He showed me that with the new bootloader, I could now load in software using FTDI on to my HeaterMeter. He suggested that in the future, I should either a) avoid installing the RFM12 until after I put in a bootloader, b) purchase one of his bootloader chip burner gadgets so I would not have to depend on the HeaterMeter, or c) purchase a CPU chip with the bootloader already installed. He was very kind and helpful.

So now its on to the next step of loading in the software to the CPU chip and integrating the HeaterMeter to the my WRT54G router.

-- Mache
Click to expand...

Right...I was thinking it was the RFM12 wireless module when I couldn't burn the boot loader with my v3.1. However, Bryan indicated that his worked with his RFM12 installed. Glad you got it going!
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mathew Lee:
I have tons of questions to get started.
Click to expand...
1. The WRT54GS, isn't that a completely different beast than a WRT54G? It may not have serial ports or run on 12V. The firmware may run on it though, if the Broadcomm SoC is the same or close.

2. Not sure about this one.

3. I have a bunch of pictures in my picasa album. And this one shows how the 5 pin right angle male connector just goes into the board. Depending on the model of router it could be a lot more complex because of the space requirements. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

After looking into it, it seems it will just be best for me to try and grab a 54gl. My PCB for the V1 does not have the nice cut out for the Heatermeter PCB, and V5 does not have enough flash and also requires to run VXworks_Killer and a couple other steps.

I have decided to go with a 13.6cfm blower to take care of my Chargriller. With only a .12 amp increase I think I will be fine, but I will be adding a clip on heat sink to the mossfet to help out.

Any thoughts would be helpful.
 
Originally posted by Mathew Lee:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mathew Lee:
I have tons of questions to get started.
Click to expand...
1. The WRT54GS, isn't that a completely different beast than a WRT54G? It may not have serial ports or run on 12V. The firmware may run on it though, if the Broadcomm SoC is the same or close.

2. Not sure about this one.

3. I have a bunch of pictures in my picasa album. And this one shows how the 5 pin right angle male connector just goes into the board. Depending on the model of router it could be a lot more complex because of the space requirements. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

After looking into it, it seems it will just be best for me to try and grab a 54gl. My PCB for the V1 does not have the nice cut out for the Heatermeter PCB, and V5 does not have enough flash and also requires to run VXworks_Killer and a couple other steps.

I have decided to go with a 13.6cfm blower to take care of my Chargriller. With only a .12 amp increase I think I will be fine, but I will be adding a clip on heat sink to the mossfet to help out.

Any thoughts would be helpful. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

FYI, I built a couple into WRT54G v2 units that had the full size board. A little tight but I used right angle connectors on the HM board to reduce height and it all fit fine. Oh, and if you can find a wrt54g v4, that should be the same hardware.
 
Bryan, I think my post got lost. How hard is it to switch to TTYS0? This is for a non-tech savvy friend and I'm worried it may cause issues for later linikmeter firmware upgrades. Your thoughts???
 
Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mathew Lee:
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
Originally posted by Mathew Lee:
I have tons of questions to get started.
Click to expand...

FYI, I built a couple into WRT54G v2 units that had the full size board. A little tight but I used right angle connectors on the HM board to reduce height and it all fit fine. Oh, and if you can find a wrt54g v4, that should be the same hardware. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for the heads up. I will keep my eyes opened for the 54g. How did you support the pcb on the inside? If you have pics, it would help immensely.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by Mathew Lee:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mathew Lee:
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
Originally posted by Mathew Lee:
I have tons of questions to get started.
Click to expand...

FYI, I built a couple into WRT54G v2 units that had the full size board. A little tight but I used right angle connectors on the HM board to reduce height and it all fit fine. Oh, and if you can find a wrt54g v4, that should be the same hardware. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for the heads up. I will keep my eyes opened for the 54g. How did you support the pcb on the inside? If you have pics, it would help immensely. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm in a field cooking today. I snapped some pics and will upload later. I hold it in place with some dabs of hot glue.
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Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
OK, check those out. As you can see I went a different way with the probe jacks and 4 way switch.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pics. It seems a little more possible to me. Now all I need all of the parts to show up.
 
No problem. Toughest thing for me was deciding how to mount the 4way switch. Lots of good info here so if you run into something, just ask.

And if anyone has a v2,3,or 4 or gl router to sell, let me know.
 
I've got a question on the 3.2 board/schematic - In Bryan's pictures, it looks like there's a jumper where R7 goes, should R7 be soldered to the board normally? Also, it looks like there's 2 pads under R7 and the schematic shows Sj2? What is that?

Thanks for the clarification!
 
I figured it out...
I looked at the parts list again and there are 2 R7's, one is indeed a wire, the other is BTN-R7.


Originally posted by Neil Mager:
I've got a question on the 3.2 board/schematic - In Bryan's pictures, it looks like there's a jumper where R7 goes, should R7 be soldered to the board normally? Also, it looks like there's 2 pads under R7 and the schematic shows Sj2? What is that?

Thanks for the clarification!
Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by Neil Mager:
I figured it out...
I looked at the parts list again and there are 2 R7's, one is indeed a wire, the other is BTN-R7.


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Neil Mager:
I've got a question on the 3.2 board/schematic - In Bryan's pictures, it looks like there's a jumper where R7 goes, should R7 be soldered to the board normally? Also, it looks like there's 2 pads under R7 and the schematic shows Sj2? What is that?

Thanks for the clarification!
Click to expand...
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

R7 is is just a wire and is the +5v for the backlight. The schematic shows a button but it isn't used. That is probably there in case you just go heatermeter without linkmeter in which case you could tie the ground pin straight to ground and use a momentary switch to turn on the backlight.
 
That makes sense,

Thanks for the reply!

Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Neil Mager:
I figured it out...
I looked at the parts list again and there are 2 R7's, one is indeed a wire, the other is BTN-R7.


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Neil Mager:
I've got a question on the 3.2 board/schematic - In Bryan's pictures, it looks like there's a jumper where R7 goes, should R7 be soldered to the board normally? Also, it looks like there's 2 pads under R7 and the schematic shows Sj2? What is that?

Thanks for the clarification!
Click to expand...
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

R7 is is just a wire and is the +5v for the backlight. The schematic shows a button but it isn't used. That is probably there in case you just go heatermeter without linkmeter in which case you could tie the ground pin straight to ground and use a momentary switch to turn on the backlight. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
I get my Raspberry Pi this week!

Bryan:

- Are you thinking of an Arduino shield that sits on top of the Raspberry Pi communicating through the SPI?

I found a Raspberry Pi library/footprint online. It would be pretty easy to redesign the existing v3.2 board to sit on top of the Raspberry PI.

I guess the alternative is a complete redesign of the entire system.

- If the Arduino is eliminated I think it would be pretty easy to design a shield to connect the sensors/blower/button to the GPIO pins but what about the LCD support?

I am trying to think how a 16x2 LCD could be implemented through the pins available on the Raspberry Pi...

20120521094840%21GPIOs.png


Since you are still volunteering your time to this project, I am assuming you will be writing a standalone program to run on the Raspberry Pi.

- What were thinking in terms of software? Similar interface? Maybe a standalone application in Debian?

- What about a case?

I heard the Pi is pretty delicate. I was thinking it would be cool to create a custom case for the Raspberry Pi plus shield when that designed. Maybe it could be posted to Shapeways and folks could order the design through that site. I read on their site that you can design cases using an opensource software called Blender. The LCD could sit on top of the shield with a button next to it. The button/LCD could be designed to stick out of the top of the custom case. The audio jacks and blowers could go on the side.

Anyway, just trying to get the conversation going. OR is this too costly for the original purpose?
 
Is the blue dot sticking out next to the probe ports the head of the thermistor?

Also, how is everyone holding the lcd display onto the cover - glue gun?


Thanks!

Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
Here you go:


Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by Neil Mager:
Is the blue dot sticking out next to the probe ports the head of the thermistor?

Also, how is everyone holding the lcd display onto the cover - glue gun?


Thanks!

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
Here you go:


Click to expand...
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes sir, It's tied into probe 3. I used hot glue to mount the display. I mounted my probe jacks a little differently. I didn't use the threaded type and used CA to mount all 4 together 1st, then scribed to drill the holes and used Thick CA and activator to attach them from behind.
 
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