LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 2


 
WOW We have our own subforum now? I couldn't find the thread then got all confused.

Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
Bryan, I think my post got lost. How hard is it to switch to TTYS0? This is for a non-tech savvy friend and I'm worried it may cause issues for later linikmeter firmware upgrades. Your thoughts???
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If you use the configuration backup, it saves all the config changes needed to set it back up. I use ttys0 and it hasn't been an issue upgrading the firmware since I backup, upgrade the firmware, restore the backup, reboot. It is pretty easy:

-- Disable the serial login capability, which eats the data coming into ttyS0. SSH into the router and `vi /etc/inittab`. Make sure these two lines are commented out (start with #).
#ttyS0::askfirst:/bin/ash --login
#tty1::askfirst:/bin/ash --login

-- Tell linkmeterd/hmdude to use ttyS0
uci set lucid.linkmeter.serial_device=/dev/ttyS0
uci commit lucid

-- Reboot! The software is now all set up.

-- Hardware-wise, what I did was use wire cutters to cut the ttyS1 TX/RX pins at the 90 degree bend, then soldered some small wires from the ttyS0 holes to the pin nubs that connect to the HeaterMeter. I had a 2x1 pinheader in the ttyS0 hole and just connected to that but you can just solder them into the holes directly. You can kinda see the hack job in this picture.
 
Bryan,

I tried using the Presets in the configuration window for the probes, and they didn't work. I got all the values in the A entry.

Is this a browser thing?

dave
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
I tried using the Presets in the configuration window for the probes, and they didn't work. I got all the values in the A entry.
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It does that usually if the form is blank when you pull it up, meaning it couldn't read the config from the HeaterMeter properly. Is the form filled in before you try to select a preset? If it is I'll need to know your browser version because I tried it on all major browsers at the time.
 
So I have a problem. I flashed the linkmeter image to my 54gl. I got the firmware upgrade complete, but now I cant access the router. I tried 192.168.1.1, .0.1, .200.1. but I still get nothing. When starting the router up I have a blinking power light and then the DMZ light comes on. After the DMZ light goes off the power light goes steady. What do I do?
 
In order to help, you need to describe in detail how you flashed the router and how you are trying to access it now.

With that information we can help.

dave

Originally posted by Mathew Lee:
So I have a problem. I flashed the linkmeter image to my 54gl. I got the firmware upgrade complete, but now I cant access the router. I tried 192.168.1.1, .0.1, .200.1. but I still get nothing. When starting the router up I have a blinking power light and then the DMZ light comes on. After the DMZ light goes off the power light goes steady. What do I do?
Click to expand...
 
When you flash to the stock Linksys with the link meter firmware, it resets all settings including wireless. You must then connect your PC to the Linksys with an Ethernet cable plugged into one of the 4 switch ports that are bunched together. Then try to connect on 192.168.200.1.
 
Also, whats the ip address of your computer when you try to connect to the router? The wire should go from the computer to one of the 4 lan ports (not wlan).

Originally posted by Mathew Lee:
So I have a problem. I flashed the linkmeter image to my 54gl. I got the firmware upgrade complete, but now I cant access the router. I tried 192.168.1.1, .0.1, .200.1.
Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Brian Hilgert:
I was just curious if you ha given any thought yet on porting to the RPi? Specifically, were you planning on trying to port the existing link meter to the RPi, or if you had planned on going down a new route.
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I've given it a lot of thought actually. What I'd really like to do is have the ability to build OpenWrt for RaspberryPi and then thing should hopefully work with both. The OpenWrt people have said they're not going to port it though, so that may not be able to happen. Another option is to get LuCI working on a straight Debian of Fedora ARM target which might be a little easier. I'd like to avoid having a 1-2GB system image though because clearly LinkMeter only needs about 4MB worth of system image and around 32MB of RAM.

I'm just going to expand the hmdude application to support directly flashing the ATmega for that scenario, no bootloader or Ardiuno IDE would be needed any longer which should save a lot of hassle.

But to be more direct, yeah, I'll almost certainly try to keep as much code as possible the same, considering they're both just Linux ARM systems. I can't really say much more until I get one to see what I can do with it, I think my updated ship date is end of June. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I can lend you mine so you can start development if you like
icon_smile.gif
 
Originally posted by E. Fox:
I can lend you mine so you can start development if you like
icon_smile.gif
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Hehe thanks but that's alright. I should have mine in a couple of weeks and I've already started some work on it. I'm working on getting LuCId and uhttpd compiling for the Pi which has turned out to be a little trickier than I thought it would be. I may consider changing my game plan into making a pure C linkmeterd which runs on both targets but we'll see.
 
Hi Bryan,

I'm wondering if its possible to use PT100 sensors and how much work it would be to make them running?

Thanks, Matthias
 
Hello,

I got most everything done with my board and I'm just finishing up the wiring. I'm doing a linkmeter setup and for the life of me I can't figure out where exact I need to tie in the electrical connection to the WRT54GL. I'm assuming I need to connect two wires somewhere, from the pictures I saw on Picasa it looks like one of them goes somewhere by the power connector on the WRT but I'm not 100% sure.

Basically by what I can tell I plug into at the P5 for the router connectivity put where do I pull my power?

Thanks!
 
I'm a few steps ahead of you.
Bryan posted a picture about half way down this page showing the connection.

http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...36/m/5721075126/p/44

To play it safe...check the output voltage w/ your voltmeter before connecting!

Ground is picked up via the serial header, so you only need to run one +12v wire.



Originally posted by Daniel Schoonover:
Hello,

I got most everything done with my board and I'm just finishing up the wiring. I'm doing a linkmeter setup and for the life of me I can't figure out where exact I need to tie in the electrical connection to the WRT54GL. I'm assuming I need to connect two wires somewhere, from the pictures I saw on Picasa it looks like one of them goes somewhere by the power connector on the WRT but I'm not 100% sure.

Basically by what I can tell I plug into at the P5 for the router connectivity put where do I pull my power?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Thank You! This explains all the final steps I was confused on. I thought I had saw a jumper on the LCD that I couldn't figure out and the powering now makes a whole lot more sense. I'm almost there!

Originally posted by Neil Mager:
I'm a few steps ahead of you.
Bryan posted a picture about half way down this page showing the connection.

http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...36/m/5721075126/p/44

To play it safe...check the output voltage w/ your voltmeter before connecting!

Ground is picked up via the serial header, so you only need to run one +12v wire.



<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Daniel Schoonover:
Hello,

I got most everything done with my board and I'm just finishing up the wiring. I'm doing a linkmeter setup and for the life of me I can't figure out where exact I need to tie in the electrical connection to the WRT54GL. I'm assuming I need to connect two wires somewhere, from the pictures I saw on Picasa it looks like one of them goes somewhere by the power connector on the WRT but I'm not 100% sure.

Basically by what I can tell I plug into at the P5 for the router connectivity put where do I pull my power?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
I used heatermeter.cpp.hex, renamed it to hm.hex and ran avrupdate and it worked - I connected my pit probe up and got a temperature reading!

I put together a picasa album building up the board. It roughly coincides with Bryans steps here: http://tiny.cc/jmqrfw

Picasa Album - http://tiny.cc/bnqrfw

Bryan - if any of these will help with the wiki, feel free to use them.

Now to solder up the probe jacks and mount the lcd display.
 
Hi guys, I'm eager to get started on this project.I just have a few questions before I get started. First the BJT(BC33725BU), is out of stock at both Mouser and digikey. Mouser says they won't have any until late July and digikey couldnt give me a date. I tried Radio Shack too without any luck. There are equivalents on Mouser, however they have a different HFE value and if I remember correctly from my school days that would require some resistor tweaking of which I don't remember how to do lol. If anyone could help me out with this or point me to somewhere I can buy a few without having to pay 9$ for shipping I'd appreciate it.

Second, I have 3 different routers at home. A GL, GS and a G. I'm currently using the GL and G in my home network with DD-WRT but I could easily flase and swap in the GS. Which router would be the best to use? I don't have the versions of each right now as I forgot to check before I left for work.

Another thing, I will probably need a larger blower for my side fire box unit. I was thinking around 20CFM. Does anyone have any suggestions on larger blowers that they have used with success?

Also, are the connectors and crimp pins needed available on digikey or mouser? The crimp pins are backordered on Pololu and I'm going to be ordering from mouser and digikey it would be nice to be able to get everything from one of these two places.

Lastly, I'm a bit confused about the "wireless probes". From what I have gathered that acutal probe will be a seperate device that will need to be built which will consist of a box and a probe, it not just a probe with an integrated sending unit that would communicate with the base unit correct? Also, I don't remember what the probe limit is (3 + the pit maybe), but I cant for instance use all the hardwired probes and then in addition display wireless probes too correct? The wireless probes will take the place of the hardwired probes right? At this point, is the probe limit a software limit or hardware? I imagine that with wireless probes its just a software limitation right now. I'm just trying to decide if I need to have the RF reciever or not. The only reason i think it would be usefull to me would be to overcome the probe limit eventually. I guess too it would eliminate the need for and type of cable penatration into the smoker too. If I don't add it now is it easy enough to add it in the future or no? Thanks a lot in advance, I can't wait to get started.
 
Second, I have 3 different routers at home. A GL, GS and a G. I'm currently using the GL and G in my home network with DD-WRT but I could easily flase and swap in the GS. Which router would be the best to use? I don't have the versions of each right now as I forgot to check before I left for work.
Click to expand...

a V1 or 1.1 GL or a v4 G are the easiest as they have the cutout for the HM board but you can use a G v1-v3 as well with a few modifications but it is a little tighter in there(see my pics). You can't use a G v5+ or a GL v2+ iirc as they don't have enough memory onboard. I beliebe the the same is true of the GS. Essentially, if you have to run the micro version of DD-WRT or open WRT then there isn't enough room for linkmeter code.
 
Also, are the connectors and crimp pins needed available on digikey or mouser? The crimp pins are backordered on Pololu and I'm going to be ordering from mouser and digikey it would be nice to be able to get everything from one of these two places.
Click to expand...

I orfered the connector shells from pololu and their pre-made wires. It worked great. I ordered the 12" and cut them in half.
 
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