Leg of Lamb


 
M

Marc

TVWBB All-Star
In the past I've done a few legs of lamb on the gasser. I'd buy a whole leg and have the butcher "de-bone" it (love them bones for stock), bring it home and unroll it to apply a marinade, re-roll and tie. Onto the grill (in-direct), (foil smoke pouches) roast and have some great lamb. Now, I have the WSM. I guess I could replicate what I was doing with gas but I'm looking for something more.
I appeal to Kevin (K Kruger) due to his self proclaimed fondness of lamb, as well as Bryan S. From what I've read, you two guys cook, like I aspire to. Please, if anyone else has thought about legs of lamb I'd be very interested. Thanks.
 
I posted a few ideas (in two separate posts) in this thread about shoulder but they would be adaptable for leg. Phil in Australia is fond of lamb and has a post on leg there as well.

This marinade, a yogurt-based one (common for me with lamb) I used on a boneless leg and this dirty martini marinade I've used on bone-in and boned leg, and loin.

This loin approach, easily adapted to leg, is, with the wilted spinach, feta-filled filo pastries and tomato jam, one of my favorites. This buttermilk marinade I made for loin but could be used for leg.

I don't often do the same thing twice.

As for cooking approach--well, I usually bone the leg but not always (depends on who'll be eating). When I bone, however, I do not roll the leg and tie it unless I'm planning on stuffing it. I much prefer cooking it flat rather than rolled; it is just as easy to cook it med-rare flat as it is rolled, there is more surface area to caramelize (something I prefer), and I like its presentation better.

I often don't use much smokewood (sometimes none) but this depends on the direction the plate is heading. I like citrus and grapevine best but have enjoyed small amounts of the milder nutwoods as well. I don't low/slow lamb eg. On a rotis I'll cook high from the get-go. On the WSM I'll Minion thc start to allow for a slower come-up time but will let the cook temp climb. Sometimes I let the temps climb and pull the lamb when it's done and the exterior is nicely finished; other times I hold the cooktemp climb to the upper 200s, cook till shy of done, then do a finishing sear, direct to finish.
 
Kevin, Thanks for the ideas. If you were going to stuff? I was thinking maybe the Dirty Martini (Need an excuse to restock the gin!) with maybe an olive pesto with goat cheese or Feta? Or do you think that might be too overpowering?
 
I think I'd go with lots of salt-wilted spinach (well-rinsed to remove the salt) and crumbled goat, possibly with bread crumbs made from artisan bread and cut on the slightly larger side (a rosemary-olive bread is a thought; I might skip this though). If I didn't use the bread I'd add just a tounch of rosemary to the stuffing.

I think I'd make a tapenade, probably on the chunky side as well and, rather than putting it in as part of the stuffing, would fan the sliced lamb a bit on the plate cascading off of, say, lemon-garlic smashed potatoes or a pile of lemon-roasted potato wedges or a mound of lemon-scented basmati, and place the tapenade on the top, where the lamb meats the mound, letting it fall here and there. I'd go light on the capers--rinsing them well first--and heavier on the shallots (which I'd lightly caramelize first) and might include some finely chopped roasted red pepper for additonal sweetness and good color. plenty of parsley, and a little minced fresh thyme leaves.

What do you think?
 
Kevin, that martini marinade looks great but will the e.v. olive oil stay liquidfied in the refrigerator for that long? I once tried to marinate something with olive oil and it turned to jelly. My wife said it was because I put it in the refrigerator.
 
She's right. Olive oil thickens when chilled. I use it here to emulsify the marinade. This allows the flavors to better stay clinging to the meat. I takes a while for the oil to tighten, a good thing, and massaging the bag a couple times during its time in the fridge helps to get the mix back on the meat.

One thing I did not mention in the recipe (I'll go edit it) is to remove the bag an hour or so before cooking. You can either let the bag sit on the counter or you can remove the meat and let the meat sit on a plate on the counter. Shake or scrape of excess marinade--or not--before cooking.
 
Thanks Kevin. Could you use some other kind of oil? Or does taking it out of the frig. early get it back to liquid?
 
All oils thicken when chilled but the rate varies depending on viscosity and refinement. I wouldn't want to give up the flavor of a good olive oil here but, yes, you could use a different oil.

The oil will soften then reliquify after it warms so, yes, taking it out of the fridge early will do this. The time will be further shortened if you remove the meat from the bag.
 
Kevin, The lemon-roasted potatoes are a must have as is the addition of the rosemary. Not sure where I'll end up with this. Time to start formulating a plan. One way or another I'm going to incorporate the tapenade be it in the stuffing or otherwise. (When I mentioned an "olive pesto" that was actually what I meant.) Appreciate all the input.
 
I was thinking you might be meaning that but there are also typical basil pestos made with olives. I don't see that here.

You certainly could put the tapenade inside: you could spread it on the meat's interior before putting on the filling, or your could pulse the spinach filling with the tapenade in a processor, then pulsing in the cheese (or, if very soft, folding the cheese in by hand).

Post what you decide to do and how it goes.
 
My verdict is in. The Dirty Martini marinade is terrific! Thanks for the suggestions Kevin. Mixed the marinade per the recipe, tasted, it was good but couldn't leave well enough alone. Added about a teaspoon of fresh ground Cumin and streamed in a half cup of buttermilk. With the addition of the dairy there wasn't any issue with the emulsion thickening in the fridge. Was only able to marinate for about 14 hours and even though the leg was butter-flied, I would of preferred to have gone longer.
Stuffed with the wilted spinach (2lbs and wasn't enough!), a bit of softened, finely sliced leeks, chopped olives, garlic, and some of my smoke dried tomatoes, finely chopped.
Added course bread crumbs and folded in a mix of soft goat feta and some of the best (and relatively inexpensive) semi-firm goat cheese (Arina Goat Gouda) I've had.
Sprinkled some finely minced rosemary and course ground pepper over the open lamb, added the stuffing. Wasn't really able to "roll" more of a fold, and tied.
Into the smoker (first time using lump*), dry pan, with a couple chunks of apple wood. Went up to about 350 and it took about 3 1/2 hours for the roast to reach
an internal of 135. Had a pan of halved new potatoes with olive oil, lemon and oregano on the second grate under the lamb...
The stuffing was very flavorful and luckily the meat to stuffing ratio was very high resulting in only a quarter sized amount appearing in the slices. Anymore then
that would of over powered the lamb.
Next time, a longer marinade time, grape wood, the door comes off the smoker to see if we can get some higher cooking temps, and the potatoes go on sooner.
All in all a success.
 
Excellent!

The cumin was a god idea (great with olives) and the buttermilk was inspired. Perhaps the next time I'm in Conn I'll invite myself fort dinner...?

That's a terrific gouda. I use it with lamb and spinach in little filo pastries.

On the potatoes: They often take longer than one might think. One thing you can do if timing or circumstances prevents putting them in earlier is to cover them with cold salted water, bring to a boil, then simmer about 7 min. Drain, spread out to cool a bit, then halve and continue with your recipe.

On high temps/door: If you flip the door upside down so that the knob is on the bottom you can prop the door open from the bottom; 1/2-1 inch usually does it and it sets up better draft conditions than removing it entirely.

You dinner sounds great. I'm sorry I missed it.
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Kevin, I have no idea of what the menu might hold but if you venture north - please invite yourself away! I'd be honored!

I really was worried that I was going to completely over power the lamb with all the strong flavors but in moderation, it was a happy (IMO) balance of flavors.

The potatoes (I'll never admit this but...) quite often, I'll do a little microwave precook and then onto the grill or frying pan. I just totally misjudged the time for baking/roasting at 350. Cook and learn.

Thanks for the tip about the door. I was really surprised that with all vents 100% the temp wasn't higher, especially with all I've read about lump burning so much hotter. I did do a minion start but instead of my usual ten or twelve lit Kingsfords briquets, I went a half chimney of the lump into the middle of a full ring. Temps climbed fairly quickly and I did initially throttle back on the lower vents as I had no idea as to what to expect. Now I have a better idea at least in the cooler outside temperatures. I have to admit, a few more traditional cooks for practical experience and I could see a DigiQ potentially on the horizon.
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I keep thinking I'll get around to using my Guru again but I haven't. Been, what, over a year? Probably longer.

Lamb can take a lot of strong flavors but, as you surmised, it's the ratio of lamb to filling that is key.

Lump can burn hotter (it depends on the quality; some lumps are poor) but air intake is the issue. If you limit the air intake (even with fully open vents the air is restricted) it can be controlled. I do find that I can get higher temps--sustained higher temps--better with lump, especially if doing the propped door thing. Much less ash with quality lump as well.

A nuker to partially cook potatoes can work. What I like about simmering them is that the pre-cooking is more even. I nuke diced potatoes destined for the frying pan sometimes as uneven pre-cooking doesn't matter.

Where are you in Conn? I grew up in Newington; we moved to W Hartford when I was 10. My brother and his family have that house still. I'm usually in Conn several times a year though often just briefly.
 
Ohh... [/B] West Hartford. Almost as ritzy as Suffield ! Seriously, if your up this way maybe we can meet up. There is a new restaurant that just opened: Onyx-Fusion (http://www.onyxfusion.com/) in Springfield, MA. About ten miles from
from Suffield. It's across from the Basket Ball Hall of Fame. Actual it's my associates brother that is one of principles in the venture. Looks like it has potential...
 
I'll let you know!

Always willing to try new places. The restaurant looks appealing, the menu okay, but do me a favor (and excuse the pedantry if you will) and note: if the website is any indication of the place (and it often is) it needs work. It is rife with misspellings (some egregious--terrainian?!), incorrect use of quotation marks, among other problems.

I love to see new restaurants make it and have helped many. Misspellings on a fine dining menu is similar to using $2 Libby rimmed wine glasses for wine service. It bespeaks a lack of attention--not a thing a fine dining establishment wants to cultivate. (If they need a FOH guy I'm available!)

I remember hanging out in Suffield in the 70s. Not much money there then. Serious partying at a farmhouse not far from Bradley...
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"similar to using $2 Libby rimmed wine glasses for wine service." And your problem is? I know exactly what your saying.
OMG - So spot on! Specially for a place that is trying to do this "level".
As far as Suffield? NEVER without serious money! Oh, except for me....We are the wealthiest farm town around!!! ....
 
Yes, there was some landed gentry money back then but the new money people weren't moving there then. Or not in my recollection anyway. They were still doing the Avon/Farmington/Canton/Simsbury thing--especially if they wanted land and/or wanted to build.

I go to a lot of new (or newer) fine dining places. I can usually guess what their biz trajectory will be based on the obvious (food, service, ambience, wine list) but also on the less obvious (scope of menu, pricing, prices (whole dollar figures or $x.95 format), glassware, napkin quality, staff knowledge, staff 'chattiness' ("Hi, I'm Michael and I'll be your server this evening..." = red flag!), and so forth. It never ceases to amaze me how many newer fine dining places miss so many of the details concerning fine.

I'm doing a six week tour with Diavolo, a dance company out of L.A. Perhaps I'll be in Conn in the early summer, as is often the case for me.
 
I'm a commercial photographer and a newbie to food services. What to you actual do?
re/ This whole food thing? Why are you so cognizant of the obvious in this business?
I forwarded your initial comments about the web site and I'm getting all kinds of S*h* for it! Laughing my
*** off, thank you! If I said those things they would of told be I'm a nobody from CT and shut up!!! Thank you!
Good food, Good Service is just that: CT, NY, LA. it doesn't matter!~!! Ninety percent is common sense!!!
 
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