LarryS Genesis Platinum C resto-mod thread


 
Yowza - $18 per spray can and $10 to ship it for the Eastwood. Cheaper than a new tray I guess.

Yup.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/bottom-accessory-panel-p-1476850.html

Not sure how much it costs from Weber but it's probably $200+ so the POR 15/Eastwood would be your best bet if you don't want to spend money. I would also put that stuff on the parts that have little rust as well so you don't have to worry about it spreading over time. Shoot, I'd probably rustproof all of the sheet metal pieces with the POR15/Eastwood just to be sure and not worry about rust.
 
Yep, I use it like a primer when I have to sand and repaint any steel parts on my grills. Unless you go nuts with the stuff, it will last quite a while. You could also check into some less expensive options made by Rustoleum and Krylon. Probably not the same quality as Eastwoods, but still better than nothing.
 
Lots of progress today - I'll spread it out over three posts. First, I broke out the pressure washer since it hit the 50's today here in western NY (but now as I post this, it's snowing and blowing).

I hit the bottom tray to get more of the flaking paint off. Hoping 1 can of Eastwood spray will be enough!

D7lEGLZ.jpg

hzDj5kF.jpg



Here's one place where I am not going to go the whole 9 yards. I pressure washed the cookbox as good as I can, and I am not going to take a wire brush to it. My thinking is that soon after I fire this back up, it will start getting gunky again. This is good enough for me and I'll focus on the stuff that will look good longer.

QfjOo42.jpg



And look at my little friend the rusted bolt, just daring me to give it a go..... I squirted some Kroil in there just in case I give in to the temptation and ignore the collected wisdom here that says let it be. :cool:

mtuqbez.jpg




The pressure washer did nothing to help the stained stainless on the frame. Looks like I'll be taking that on by hand.

EnWN3nl.jpg

vPOcyfp.jpg
 
I spent a ton of time cleaning stainless stuff yesterday and today - frame, doors, shelves... I used a lot of elbow grease and a set of Klingspoor Sandflex Sanding blocks. These things are great. I mostly used the medium, but for the tough stuff and the insides of the doors I used the coarse. The fine clogs up pretty quick so it didn't get much use.

LktY2ff.jpg



And here are the results:

HoF7GZJ.jpg


MNAsW1R.jpg


SRXJHSw.jpg


gHsciNq.jpg



I also also worked on cleaning the plastic, with mostly good results. I used the high strength Dawn, soaked and scrubbed with a brush and scouring sponge. Magic Eraser was tried, but didn't do much good. Notice the stainless too:

KFLOqnN.jpg



The left shelf is really being stubborn. Grrrr.

Wmip92j.jpg



Handles and knobs:

fOT2A4W.jpg



And finally the control panel - the really cleaned up well using Dawn.

R2jBEo6.jpg
 
You may have noticed in an earlier picture of the legs for the frame, that one of the legs was missing an internal brace. There are 8 in total - four as part of the vertical members and four as part of the horizontal. Four of the spot welds have disengaged, so things are loose. It's an interesting design - the braces are spot welded to one part of the frame and there is a bolt into the mating piece. Additionally, tightening the bolt hits an internal dimple that pushes the brace outwards, pressuring it into the other frame member. Here's some pics that might make it clearer:

Fgu4gLB.jpg


LjFIVKN.jpg


X1J1Gst.jpg



I decided whatever I did to fix the busted ones, I'd also do to the ones that aren't busted yet, 'cause they're probably going to go too. I ended up drilling and tapping a 1/4-20 thread (always fun in stainless!) and putting a machine screw in to serve in place of the weld. I like how it looks! I might even replace the hex bolts with these screws - they look better. I did the four on the vertical frame members and decided to knock off for the day.

JajcZZC.jpg



Thanks for reading and for all your suggestions!
 
Last edited:
Great work and great pictures! You are going to have a Platinum to enjoy that will be special and a wonderful cooker. I think a way better choice than a run of the mill newer Genesis. You are doing an excellent job. Really impressed with your stainless steel restoration.
 
You are doing a great job on that baby. I agree completely on your decision to not go all in on the inside of the cookbox. It will look just like that after a few cooks anyway. Just get the main crud out.
 
You're off to a great start Larry! I think one can of the Eastwood should be more than enough (the smallest one they have for sale). Yah, the Magic Eraser is a hit or miss. Have you tried simple green and 0000 steel wool on the control panel? The Dawn looks like it's good for that too though.
 
Used correctly you'll be amazed how much coverage you will get out of that one can. Great looking work as well
 
Wow, that is a great job!

I have no stainless to worry about, but yours looks fantastic. And I like that detail of the stainless fasteners, again, great work!
 
Thanks for all the encouragement guys!

This week will be pretty busy with work and other life stuff, so I probably won't get much in the form of progress until Sunday. But, I have two problems to at least figure out how to solve over the next day or two, and hopefully get some parts ordered. Looking for advice on both problems from those that have done this before me.

First, the magnetic insert on the doors that keep them closed quit working years ago. I'd roll the grill around and the doors would flop open and bang into stuff. Really annoying and I don't know how I put up with it for so long. First picture is of the rusted magnet, second is of it removed from the door.

EyO8iZL.jpg


kVrZJPb.jpg


I was thinking about epoxying a rare earth magnet behind the opening (in the void between the inner and outer door panels). Any other thoughts?



Second problem is one of my most hated things (actually two things) about this grill:

YS4plQu.jpg


Where do I start? The cheap plastic? The lousy tube insert that weakly holds the small wheels? The noise they generate when they roll? The noise that resonates through the frame as it rolls?

This will be the "mod" part of this resto-mod. I have to improve on this. I don't want plastic junk. So if I have steel it needs to be stainless, or has to be aluminum. I'd like some sort of wheel bearing, even if it's just a delrin sleeve bearing. But, what I have found so far is really expensive.

How about $48 a piece (with brake) for this: https://casterconnection.com/caster...steel-thermoplastic-rubber-swivel-caster.html

Or $63 each (with brake) for these: https://casterconnection.com/caster...gray-cc-apex-swivel-caster-threaded-stem.html

I'd be spending over $100 just for the small wheels, and I haven't even looked at the rear wheels yet.

Has anyone sourced something better than the junky plastic stock wheels but quality and affordable?
 
Last edited:
Have you tried simple green and 0000 steel wool on the control panel? The Dawn looks like it's good for that too though.

Yea I read your post in another thread about the simple green and steel wool, but the Dawn did the trick.
 
Yah, I don't think the price difference is worth it either. You could put 6 or 7 sets of the HF wheels on for the price of the SS ones.
 
Thanks for all the encouragement guys!

This week will be pretty busy with work and other life stuff, so I probably won't get much in the form of progress until Sunday. But, I have two problems to at least figure out how to solve over the next day or two, and hopefully get some parts ordered. Looking for advice on both problems from those that have done this before me.

First, the magnetic insert on the doors that keep them closed quit working years ago. I'd roll the grill around and the doors would flop open and bang into stuff. Really annoying and I don't know how I put up with it for so long. First picture is of the rusted magnet, second is of it removed from the door.

EyO8iZL.jpg


kVrZJPb.jpg


I was thinking about epoxying a rare earth magnet behind the opening (in the void between the inner and outer door panels). Any other thoughts?

Before you do that, EMAIL Weber CS with the grill serial number and explain to them that you are looking for the correct magnets for the doors because they are rusted and no longer hold. I did that for my E-310 and they sent me a free set. Hopefully they do the same for you.
 

 

Back
Top