Large Yellow Flames on LP Grill - Can't figure out the issue.


 
J

Josh Arthur

New member
First thanks for all the guidance I've received so far in my reading. I just received a used Genesis EP-320 LP grill that is in really good condition. Everything seems to be working fine but the flames are like 6" high and yellow when the grill is on High. Even on medium, the flames come around the flavorizer bars. I tried to grill chicken and was left with a black soot on the chicken because of the incomplete combustion. Here is what I've done so far:

"Reset" regulator (close tank, remove reg, open grill knobs, wait, close grill knobs, open tank slowly, open grill knobs, light)
Removed and cleaned all tubes, there were no spider webs and a very tiny amount of dirt
Adjusted air shutters, I've tried everything from full open, to almost closed
I've tried 3 different regulator/hoses also

The only thing that would adjust the flames at all was the air shutters. The flame went from about 8" to 6" on high. It is possible on low to grill without too much yellow flame, but then the grill is so low that a burger took 20 min to grill.

Also I don't have the problem of the grill being too low temperature on the HIGH settings. It heats up very fast and cooks very intensely. I look forward to hearing from anyone that has some suggestions. Thanks in advance.
 

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Are you SURE this is an LPG grill and not one that has been converted from NG? What does the ID tag say? Is there a tank support or place for an LPG tank?
 
Ed's probably on to something. If the setup for LP is OK, then I'd take out those burners and give them a good cleaning. Kick those spiders out! Compressed air and a long brush work wonders.
 
I think Ed may have nailed it too. The label should be on the side of the drip pan holder. Another easy check are 3 differences between NG and LP grills in the era. If the bottom panel is solid, it is a NG grill, if it has the round cutout and a tank scale, it is a LP. If it is LP, it will also have a round cutout in the right side frame panel for the hose to run from the tank inside the cabinet. Sounds like a butchered conversion by the previous owner. Easiest solution would be to replace the manifold with a LP manifold since you already have the other parts. Try to get the air shutters back to where they were originally.
 
There is a LP tank scale inside, as well as a round cutout in the bottom of the panel as well as a round cut out in the right side frame. The sticker shows LP also. I did clean out the burners too, they look super clean compared to other ones I've had.
Probably was a bad conversion. That's not the best case scenario but it makes a lot of sense. You guys are awesome.
 

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Everything looks copasetic with being manufactured for LPG. 2.75kPa = 11"WC. The next step would be to take the manifold out and have a look at the orifices and see what size they are. Is it possible that someone could have swapped in an NG manifold?

Let me see if I can get a picture...no, I've compared the two orifices (LPG vs NG) and the difference in size isn't enough to see.
 
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Yah, my guess is someone tried to convert it to NG. on the earlier Genesis grills, if you could fit a 3/16" drill bit shank into the orifice, it was a NG orifice. If it did not fit, it was LP. I assume it would be the same for the E3xx grills as well. That will be the proof positive way to tell if it is set up for NG vs LP.
 
Bruce said:
Yah, my guess is someone tried to convert it to NG. on the earlier Genesis grills, if you could fit a 3/16" drill bit shank into the orifice, it was a NG orifice. If it did not fit, it was LP. I assume it would be the same for the E3xx grills as well. That will be the proof positive way to tell if it is set up for NG vs LP.
Click to expand...
Oops...3/16"? That's a fire hose right there. I think you meant 1/16" possibly? I'm seeing 0.0635" for a 14k BTU/h burner for NG @7"WC, ~0.0465" for LPG.
 
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You either do not have a true LP grill, someone hogged out the jets/orifices. or you have a bad LP regulator. Simplest thing first. Try a new regulator. Cheap and easy
 
checking the orifice size would be cheaper and maybe even easier. IMO of course.
 
That takes skill and disassembly. A quick trip to Home Depot or Menards, what have you, $12 and slap a new reg on. 2 minutes tops. Much easier than taking off a manifold but YMMV. Either way, that thing is definitely an inferno and dangerous
 
LMichaels said:
That takes skill and disassembly. A quick trip to Home Depot or Menards, what have you, $12 and slap a new reg on. 2 minutes tops. Much easier than taking off a manifold but YMMV. Either way, that thing is definitely an inferno and dangerous
Click to expand...
1603408042072.png
 
Well a couple of us did not see that. So my guess is somebody hogged out the orifices either with the intent of building a flame thrower or trying to run it on nat gas. So OP you definitely need to A, get a new manifold for the gas you want to use or B, try to repair the one you have. Good luck
 
Alright, again I appreciate all the knowledge and insight. Looks like I need to decide if a new manifold is worth it for me. Thank you
 
Try it on NG if you can. See what happens. It could not be any worse. Or maybe try getting new orifices.
Here are 3 resources I have used

Orifices

eastwaysales.com eastwaysales.com

Anderson & Forrester | Orifices | Natural Gas and Propane Products

Anderson & Forrester, original equipment manufacturing of natural gas and propane products, such as: orifices, gauging drills, valves, and so much more
andersonforrester.com andersonforrester.com

Anderson & Forrester | Conversion Chart | Natural Gas & LP

Anderson & Forrester provides a conversion chart to guarantee an easier experience in finding the correct product to fit your needs
andersonforrester.com andersonforrester.com
I included the chart because typically orifices come as "spuds" (a very tiny pilot hole). And it's up to you to calculate the proper opening for the gas type, pressure it's at and BTU output desired from each burner. You will need a set of small numeric drills. Usually when these are done commercially you're supposed to use a precision ream. What I have found is if you go one size under with a regular drill bit IOW if the chart indicates you should use a #75 than use a #76. When I have tested them with feeler gauges I have been right on the nose using this method.
Take your time it's not really hard to do it right. If you are concerned about doing it, get a set of orifices and PM me. You're welcome to send them to me and I'll size them for you. As a favor
 
First just buy a 3/64" drill bit and see if it will fit in an orifice. If so, it is set up for NG. If not, it is set up for propane. Then make your decision. We are talking about a $2 investment.
 
That is a lot of $$$$$ Bruce. LOL Yes Bruce is correct. 3/64 will be a rough fit and if it's anywhere close to that someone did a hog out job if you're not lucky and if you're lucky they put an actual NG manifold on it. But sadly there are dishonest people out there with web sites like this http://www.grill-repair.com/weber315orifice.html who try to sell you an over priced "kit" to supposedly make a conversion
 
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