I will just leave this here


 
So far this year I've been able to resist collecting free gennies.

So, I picked this one up and dropped it off at a friend's house when he wasn't home. Now he has an early Genesis 2, and this 1998 genesis 2000.

EZ date code. Durawood, needs grates, flav bars and a drip pan.

I'm hoping to infect him with Weberitis.

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THyde said:
Definitely a franken, but who here has a truly stock, OEM complete grill anyway?
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Well, first let me say that while that particular grill seems kind of odd to me, I enjoy and have done custom grills myself. Everything from minor tweaks to a grill hard to recognize as a particular model, like this one:
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But in answer to your question, I have one:
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As far as I know, this is a totally stock late 80s Jr. (actually called the “XXI” at the time) with provenance including even the original owners manual retained by the first, and only other owner.
 
I can't remember where we were talking about the left side heat shield. Here is a closeup of the durawood heat shield, that again, did not shield the heat enough to prevent durawarp.

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DanHoo said:
I can't remember where we were talking about the left side heat shield. Here is a closeup of the durawood heat shield, that again, did not shield the heat enough to prevent durawarp.

View attachment 51478
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To be fair, Weber lists that part as a spacer. 😀 The grill I had from brand new showed very little "durawarp". I like that word too, let's keep it. Other ones I have come across have been much worse. I'm thinking out of control grease fires contribute to the severity of the "warp"
 
I think Steve has it. I think the warping is caused by one or several very high heating cycles over the life of the grill. I don't think it is caused by continuous normal grill temps. At some point, even well cared for grills experience a grease fire or other malfunction that results in ultra high temps inside the cook box and that is when the Durawarp occurs. I have had grills were the one slat closest to the cookbox is severely MELTED. The Durawood is pretty heat resistant and the heat shield does a fairly good job of spacing and shielding the durawood, but it won't overcome a nuclear meltdown inside the cook box.
 
I agree. The grease fire gets hot enough to bend aluminum.

I think the warped slat can be straightened with clamps and a heat gun, but I have a spare durawood tray from a parts grill, so I'll just give him a straight one to replace it with.
 
Has anyone had success spot welding a loose bar on original style stamped steel grates found on silver B / x000 grills? I have four in good condition except one end is loose.

This is not to sell or flip but for a friend.
 
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It's not the welding that's the issue...after all, stainless is mostly iron with a varying amount of chromium and other additives. You can MIG weld stainless with ordinary ER-70 electrode. It's maintaining the qualities that make stainless what it is (passivation layer corrosion resistance and appearance) that requires the skill and proper equipment.

I would go ahead and tack weld it and hope for the best. It's not in an area where you would ordinarily be eating off of, espcially if you tack weld it on the bottom side.

Yes, I have TIG welded SS. I'm not very good at it...it requires heat control and correct welding speed and if you do it right the weld looks multi-colored and beautiful...otherwise it looks dull and sooty.
 
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I mig welded my SS PLatinum and am not a good welder. But I am satisfied with the results. I used SS wire and Agron gas.
 
Hey, can someone ID this snake for me. Caught him on the driveway next to my mulch garden. He was pretty small. About foot to 15".
S. Central Wisconsin location.

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Barely get a chicken wing outta this guy. I am pretty sure it was a DeKays Brown Snake or just Brown Snake.
 
Bruce said:
I mig welded my SS PLatinum and am not a good welder. But I am satisfied with the results. I used SS wire and Agron gas.
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Yeah, if I'm welding for myself, all it has to do is stay welded...the worst that can happen is I'll have to re-weld it. But if I'm welding for someone else, of course I want it to look like I know what I'm doing. I've seen (and made) a lot of welds that look like bird poop but more than strong enough for the application.
 
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