How to stop the Weber getting too hot for low and slow?


 
A

Amit Arora

New member
Hi all

I have a 57cm Weber - had it for around 8 years and previously tried keeping the temp down and utterly failing, so I'm having more of an concerted effort now and done some youtubing! Also got an inkbird thermometer to monitor temps.

I'm using charcoal lumps (partly because I generally prefer it for normal grilling and also because I have stocked up on it) rather than briquettes, so I realise that this will give some variability. And I've gone for putting the charcoal in two baskets which are in a slight offset configuration over to one side of the kettle (saw this on 'low n slow basics channel and seeing as I have baskets thought would try this instead of a "snake configuration" given using lumps). And I started with about 1/3 lit.

I started closing the vents around 115degrees, but clearly didn't close them enough as it kept going up and I kept nudging them closed until the top and bottom were virtually closed. So I got up to 148 degrees about an 30 mins after the pork shoulder went in the bbq before I managed to then pull it back into the 120s about 30 mins later. Around 2 hours into the cook I took the lid off to spritz the meat. Temps then soared even though I hadn't touched the vents, also needed to exit the house for an hour so thebbq got to 160ish for a while (and this is with virtually closed top and bottom vents (I mean a few mm of each showing).

I wonder if this surge was either because the lid off for a short while caused the charcoal to burn hotter or whether it was more that the second of my baskets was just getting going at this stage?

Got home and took the meat off to wrap in foil, put the meat back in and closed the top vent completely. Temps rose back upto 155 rapidly before I decided to close the bottom one completely for a while and now it is finally back slightly under 120 degrees because. BBq's been on six hours so far and still going and there was a decent amount of charcoal still in there at the 4 hour mark, so I think it should get to the eight hour mark.

But I need to get more control over temps...

I am having some smoke escape around the rim so I am wondering if my difficulties are because too much air is leaking in or out from vents and the rim. I'm not entirely convinced that my one touch cleaning system properly is against the surface of the bowl. I intend to clean a bit of the gunk off the bottom, but it feels like one of the three blades is slightly lifted.

And should I get some BBQ gasket for the rim - seems like with the thermometer wires and my table hooks, it isn't sealing so well?

Any other ideas to get more control over this - I want to try and be able to maintain 120 degrees for more like 8+ hours?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Yes, the amount of air let in with just a peek can throw a wrench in the temperature works to say the least.
I wouldnt get too anxious about cleaning around the sweeps, some “gunk” will help with it being a bit tighter.
If I’m trying to keep things low, for a LONG cook, I use the WSM. For a butt on the kettle, I am more inclined to use baskets in classic “indirect” set up with the runway down the center, I’ve done 2 butts easily using that method, no, I don’t get ten hours out of it but, I’m not trying to either, this will work surprisingly well starting early in the day and having a mid-late afternoon dining window. They cook a bit faster but that also allows for a LONG rest in the cooler prior to pulling.
That’s about all I can offer. I would not spend a lot of money trying to get a great “tight” fit, save that money and put in a canto get a WSM! It will be funds well spent! I used to try to do everything on the kettle and did pretty well, very well but, nothing works as well as the WSM for real low/slow work in my opinion…
 
Thanks for that. That is the dilemma that I am in - to try and learn low and slow in the weber or get another bbq - thinking kamado as a possibility too.

But at the same time, I **don't think** I'll be low and slow cooking that regularly (although if I actually do it successfully, maybe it will spur me on) so not sure about dropping the extra $$ on another item.
 
It’s not that hard to manage the temperature but, it will take some trial and error. Some folks get fantastic results using the snake method, Ive always been too lazy to set that up, always simply used baskets in the aforementioned method, works quite well. One other thing is a gizmo called a “Tip Top temperature gauge” they are about 20 bucks and that will seriously shut down temperature, it’s pretty cool, again, learning curve but, it’s pretty basic. The kettle is a wonderful piece of engineering that does many things extremely well, as is a WSM. Yes, we are all pretty happy to spend other peoples money but, try some other fire management set ups, worth the time!
 
Lump burns hotter than briqs, you are trying to cook low/slow, and you are having trouble keeping the temp down. Hmmm....

Briqs burn cooler than lump. Briqs burn much more consistently, which makes a snake of minion burn much easier. You can also more easily control your fire by carefully controlling how many briqs you light to start. If you start with 10 briqs and it is too hot, start with 6 the next time.

If you don't want to splurge for a deciated smoker like a WSM, you should invest in a slow n sear. Makes a long indirect cook in a kettle with a minion burn much much easier.

snsgrills.com

Pulled Pork Recipe | SnS Grills

A staple of BBQ, pulled pork is actually very easy to make yourself, and with a few simple tricks you’ll be prepared to make it better than your local BBQ joint.
snsgrills.com

 
Jim makes a very good point, briquettes are more consistent, get a bag, try again. We eat our failures around the grill. Even a flop can taste good, you just learn that you can always do better, “Semper Weberis”😁
 
I have whole sale dumped briquettes in favor of lump. I’ve had a box of JD briqs for just about a year or year and a half, unopened in the box sitting there. I can’t tell you how many bags of lump I’ve gone through in that time…..

When you open the lid, that rush of air is introduced to the starving charcoal and it gets all happy and hotter.

Why you’re way down in the 120 degree range is beyond me. Doesn’t your meat have an off taste to it? Your coals have to be hot enough to not produce that almost rancid taste, and that’s generally gotta be in the 180+ range. The lowest I typically go is about 200 and am 98% of the time in the 225-250 range. But I digress….

Set your vents where you want them. How are you lighting, in a chimney or what? I set my vents approximately, light the coals and dump them and close the lid. I almost never over shoot my desired temp range.
 
Hmm. Well maybe you’re referring to Celsius which I believe 120 is about 250F.
 
Amit they sell the Slow N Sear Deluxe in the UK that is what I use on my performer and its been worth every dime. I use water in the tray, some don't but I honestly believe it helps keep the heat more manageable. I like you do not do that much low and slow and I have a dedicated smoker by the way but I prefer using the Performer for ribs which is really all I do low and slow. I get at least 5 hours or more on a basket and its easy to add more charcoal if you need more.

What works for me is to open the bottom vent 1/4 and the top vent 3/4 I never touch them after that I can pretty easily dial into 275 Degrees F which I believe is 135 C and keep it there using the SNS. I do refill the water after a few hours if necessary and if I need to lift the lid to do that or check my ribs after a few hours I do it quickly yes it will spike but leave it alone don't touch the vents it will dial itself back down. I don't use lump I only use briquettes as Jim said it should burn more consistent and not as hot. You only need maybe 10 briqs to get the SNS started its kind of the snake method as you put the hot coals in one corner and the rest are unlit.

Alot of us have gone to the high heat method for cooking this stuff which is why I try to be around 275 F. The SNS also has more capacity than 2 normal baskets.

Edit: When I talk about 275 F that is using my Maverick to monitor that temp at grate level just want to be clear on that. With the SNS the Weber Therm on the lid is directly over the coals in the basket so it will read like 125 degrees higher than the grate level as with the SNS the vents on the lid are on the opposite end of the SNS.
 
Last edited:
The good news is that port shoulder is very forgiving with temp swings.

Lump burns hotter than briquettes. If you want to go low and slow, keep a bag of all natural briquettes around. Don't say "I only use lump" when there are situation that are better served with briquettes. Personally, I keep both on hand. I use lump for hot things like burgers and steak, and briquettes for low and slow like pork and chicken.

Use the snake method. It really is a great way to control the temps. It's best to use briqs.

I also own an kettle that is over 10 years old. My old kettle leaks air way more than it did when it was only a couple of years old. I can no longer put out lit charcoal by sealing the vents completely. When it was new, by sealing the vents I put out the fire and saved the charcoal in it. Both the top vent and the ash sweepers (one touch) fit very loosely, and air gets in and out. A newer kettle is easier to control temps because you can control the airflow better.

Maybe do a deep clean and try to bend the one touch cleaners back to their original, tight the the bottom position to prevent airflow. You know to mark the exterior one touch handle area with a Sharpie to know where full open and full closed are, RIGHT?

You can help yourself a little with a pot of water. If your temps are getting out of hand, put a grill-worthy pan of water on the grate above the lit charcoal. The water will absorb some heat, and keep the grill interior moist and help stabilize the temps nearer to 100*C or 212*F. But be careful, if you put a very big pan of cold water on, then the grill interior might take quite a while to get UP to temp.


Run your thermometer wires through the top vent, and get rid of anything else that prevents the lid from sitting nicely on the bottom bowl.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try a bit longer with lump to see if I can manage it better before trying briquettes again. I got just under 8 hours from my setup without throwing in a bit more lump which I can easily do next time.

TimA said:
Hmm. Well maybe you’re referring to Celsius which I believe 120 is about 250F.
Click to expand...
Yep that's right, I'm using Celsius - sorry for the confusion.

Brian B Atlanta said:
Amit they sell the Slow N Sear Deluxe in the UK that is what I use on my performer and its been worth every dime. ...

Alot of us have gone to the high heat method for cooking this stuff which is why I try to be around 275 F. The SNS also has more capacity than 2 normal baskets.
Click to expand...
Yep, looked at that and the charcoal ring, both are options, but then I wonder if the money is better spent and an additional bbq...

And I'm interested in the "high heat method" for cooking this stuff - is that just taking the temp a bit higher (so 275F = 135C, which is about 15C higher than I was aiming for (although I probably actually averaged 135C!!)

Darrel Williams said:
The good news is that port shoulder is very forgiving with temp swings.

Use the snake method...

I also own an kettle that is over 10 years old. My old kettle leaks air way more than it did when it was only a couple of years old. I can no longer put out lit charcoal by sealing the vents completely. When it was new, by sealing the vents I put out the fire and saved the charcoal in it. Both the top vent and the ash sweepers (one touch) fit very loosely, and air gets in and out. A newer kettle is easier to control temps because you can control the airflow better.

Maybe do a deep clean and try to bend the one touch cleaners back to their original, tight the the bottom position to prevent airflow. You know to mark the exterior one touch handle area with a Sharpie to know where full open and full closed are, RIGHT?....

Run your thermometer wires through the top vent, and get rid of anything else that prevents the lid from sitting nicely on the bottom bowl.
Click to expand...
The pork shoulder was quite forgiving, it turned out well!

And yep, will try the snake method and see how that turns out.

I think there I am suffering from air leaks. I am going to take it apart next and try and clean it/bend back the one touch sweepers. I didn't run the thermometers through the vent because I didn't know how closed I would need the top vent, but I will do that. In any case I have a table that hooks onto the kettle (present which I would be loathed to stop using!!). I am wondering if a cheapish equiv of $10ish BBQ gasket from amazon would help just provide more of a barrier around the kettle rim. Has anyone done that here with any improvement?

Cheers
 
I work with lump.
I would say that your most important thing is the start.
Get a chimney starter going till the coals are real nice & hot, but only throw a couple of these coals into your kettle and on the side you don't use for cooking.
So 2 zone fire and meat on the no fire side
 
Anne M. said:
I work with lump.
I would say that your most important thing is the start.
Get a chimney starter going till the coals are real nice & hot, but only throw a couple of these coals into your kettle and on the side you don't use for cooking.
So 2 zone fire and meat on the no fire side
Click to expand...
That is what I tried, maybe I did a few too many lumps, it took up more like 1/4 to 1/3 of the length of the basket (although the skinny corner end).
 
It's one of those things, like you can slow smoke on a kettle ( the old three wheel daisy ones worked perfectly for this )
and you can grill on a WSM.
But having both makes it easier.;)
 
Amit -- your problem is too high temp in a kettle while using lump for lo/slo cooking. While it "could" be a lot of things, it probably is just one or two things. Here is your prioritized trouble fixing flowchart:

1. Decide if you want a dedicated smoker or not? No matter what you do, a kettle will always be a great grill and a meh smoker. If your answer is yes, buy a WSM or a Weber Kamado. If your answer is no, proceed to #2.

2. Ditch the lump for now. Lump burns hotter and inconsistent. You want cooler and consistent. Briqs are just always going to be better for that. Until you figure this out, lump is adding noise when you are trying to find the signal.

3. If you answer to #1 is no, but you still want to do kettle smoking on a regular basis, get a slow n sear. It is the best tool for kettle smoking. Could you get reasonable results with snakes and jerry rigged charcoal baskets and jerry rigged water pans? With enough tinkering, sure. But if you are not spending on #1, then spend a few quid on a SNS. It is the best tool for what you are trying to do. If the job is best done with a socket wrench, get a socket wrench. Why waste your time seeing if you can do the job with a phillips head screw driver?

4. If briqs and SNS don't work, only then go down the air leak rabbit hole. Air leaks "could" be your issue, but probably are not.

5. Once you get through all that and understand what is going on, then play around with lump if you want to.

QED
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top